No one knows what makes 9mm suitable for outdoor use and if it really needs to mean that it would be unsuitable for indoor use?
Some different compositions.
Renoveringsgips ala 6mm has a composition mixed with fiberglass. Makes it much more durable. But also much more expensive.
Just use regular standard gypsum.
I can admit that I installed renoveringsgips in the latest room. But only because I have 15 junction boxes and don't want to change them all to those for double sheets. I have chipboard + renoveringsgips now.
Renoveringsgips ala 6mm has a composition mixed with fiberglass. Makes it much more durable. But also much more expensive.
Just use regular standard gypsum.
I can admit that I installed renoveringsgips in the latest room. But only because I have 15 junction boxes and don't want to change them all to those for double sheets. I have chipboard + renoveringsgips now.
In this case, however, Yrrol wants to replace the chipboard with plaster. I would NOT install renovation plaster without something behind it, as the risk of getting a hole in the wall increases significantly. How fun is it if someone stumbles, puts a hand against the wall, and the plaster cracks?
Actually, anything other than 13 mm plaster or chipboard similar to what you have today is nothing more than what is commonly referred to as construction fraud. Either you do it right and get a few millimeters thicker wall, or you cheat. If the millimeters are that important, I assume you're not going to wallpaper and not fill more than absolutely necessary?
Actually, anything other than 13 mm plaster or chipboard similar to what you have today is nothing more than what is commonly referred to as construction fraud. Either you do it right and get a few millimeters thicker wall, or you cheat. If the millimeters are that important, I assume you're not going to wallpaper and not fill more than absolutely necessary?
Now 8 years later, I still hate my house and that I didn't choose to REMOVE THE MASONITE COMPLETELY and put up gypsum when I had the chance.
The masonite moves, it creaks, creaks and creaks to damnation. Wallpaper wrinkles and as I said, it creaks!
Damn how stupid of me, so for those searching through old threads with similar thoughts, SWITCH TO GYPSUM!
I myself am torn between tearing down these walls in my fully renovated house to correct the mistake or moving to a new house.
The masonite moves, it creaks, creaks and creaks to damnation. Wallpaper wrinkles and as I said, it creaks!
Damn how stupid of me, so for those searching through old threads with similar thoughts, SWITCH TO GYPSUM!
I myself am torn between tearing down these walls in my fully renovated house to correct the mistake or moving to a new house.
In a 55 square meter large extension we have that we built in 1990, we used 9.6 mm masonite on all the walls, there was a lot of talk about formaldehyde in particle board at that time and we had just had children. We do not have any of the problems you describe in that part of the house.
Could be masonite under the roof too, along with a lot of other things. But I can believe I'm living inside a transformer robot that changes shape as soon as the temperature/humidity shifts.
I have made marker lines on the roof trusses to see if it's the whole roof that's twisting, but the lines remain where I once drew them.
I have made marker lines on the roof trusses to see if it's the whole roof that's twisting, but the lines remain where I once drew them.
There's a special variant of hypochondria that affects homeowners: It's called husokondri
Have Masonite in all the walls in the whole house. The first rooms I renovated, I tore down the wallpaper to the boards and also got the joint tapes in fiberglass which I didn't understand the purpose of at the time. I have wallpaper cracks in those places. Since then, I've learned to ensure I have joint tapes and kept the Masonite which works perfectly fine (apart from being tinder in a fire). Personally, I think the creaking and slight noise in a wooden house from the '80s is part of the charm. =)Y Yrrol said: