I have acquired a barn "thrown in"😬 I'm thinking of trying spot repair and have a question. The pictures show a crossbeam that has come loose from its mount on the wall post. The cast foundation stone in the ground has tipped the post outward. Should I try to force the wall post back so that the beam can come back into the mount? Seems difficult. Or is it better to place a temporary support at the end of the crossbeam?
Hm. I had been thinking that since the barn is standing even without that crossbeam, it's not something that needs to be addressed immediately. This opens up the possibility to take some time and do it properly instead. It shouldn't have to cost too much.
It looks like frost heave has been at work, pushing up and out the footing/stone.
1. Tighten the collar beams on both sides with some strong ratchet straps. There's a thing that looks like a double ratchet strap with a long lever instead of the usual handle, and it's driving me crazy that I can't remember what it's called. To really do it well, make a couple of decent holes in the cladding, thread the ratchet strap outside, loop it around the collar beam, and then back to the tension block. I don't know if collar beam is the right term in a post barn, but I mean the top beam that the rafters rest on.
2. Lift with jacks at suitable points, just enough so that the post is free and no longer rests on the stone.
3. Remove the stone, dig down to frost-free depth, lay base course/gravel at the bottom, and pour a new footing. Make sure it's pyramid-shaped with the thick end downward. Fill in around. For extra stability, cast a sturdy iron with holes so you can secure the post with through bolts.
4. Align the bottom of the post, straighten it nicely again.
5. Remove old nails and junk from the crossbeam, secure it properly with suitable sturdy fittings. If the barn is prone to moving a lot, it might be advisable to go up in size and use lag screws in pre-drilled holes instead of regular anchor screws.
You might need to swap steps 1 and 2, it's hard to know without seeing the whole situation. Note! When tightening the upper beams, use straps or chains, NOT cables!
It looks like frost heave has been at work, pushing up and out the footing/stone.
1. Tighten the collar beams on both sides with some strong ratchet straps. There's a thing that looks like a double ratchet strap with a long lever instead of the usual handle, and it's driving me crazy that I can't remember what it's called. To really do it well, make a couple of decent holes in the cladding, thread the ratchet strap outside, loop it around the collar beam, and then back to the tension block. I don't know if collar beam is the right term in a post barn, but I mean the top beam that the rafters rest on.
2. Lift with jacks at suitable points, just enough so that the post is free and no longer rests on the stone.
3. Remove the stone, dig down to frost-free depth, lay base course/gravel at the bottom, and pour a new footing. Make sure it's pyramid-shaped with the thick end downward. Fill in around. For extra stability, cast a sturdy iron with holes so you can secure the post with through bolts.
4. Align the bottom of the post, straighten it nicely again.
5. Remove old nails and junk from the crossbeam, secure it properly with suitable sturdy fittings. If the barn is prone to moving a lot, it might be advisable to go up in size and use lag screws in pre-drilled holes instead of regular anchor screws.
You might need to swap steps 1 and 2, it's hard to know without seeing the whole situation. Note! When tightening the upper beams, use straps or chains, NOT cables!
Next good question, how does the wall look from the outside. Is there a bulge outwards on it? If so, the roof has probably also sunk. Had the same issue with the barn, where trusses broke due to the diagonal braces being removed from the loft. Bulge on both long walls. Used 2 pieces of 25 mm pole stay wire and 16 mm turnbuckle anchored outside with a 25 X125 plank across on the outside and pulled together 40 mm and will pull a bit more in the summer. But it will never return to the original state. So brace with wire and don't try to get the beam back to its original position.
I would think that it is the roof that has pressed out the wall band (wall plate) causing the cross beam to release. Once you have pulled the wall bands together again with a strap, it might be worthwhile to reinforce the fastening of the cross beam with some specially welded iron fittings and maybe add a couple of tie rods or additional cross beams in different places.
Otherwise, I agree with torparavgrund.
Otherwise, I agree with torparavgrund.
Thanks for the great tips that will now be considered. Just to make sure I understand the term hammarbandet. It is the upper horizontal beam on which the eaves rest? And from which the crossbeam has come loose. And yes, there is pressure on the roof from sagging rafters. Another detail in this project🙃
Correct.R Rullsten said:
You can search for dragblock.
Barns are usually quite sturdily built, they can withstand a lot before collapsing. If you're okay with it being slightly crooked, I wouldn't pull too much on all parts but just splice what's come apart, maybe pull it together halfway.
Barns are usually quite sturdily built, they can withstand a lot before collapsing. If you're okay with it being slightly crooked, I wouldn't pull too much on all parts but just splice what's come apart, maybe pull it together halfway.
In the photo with the beam, it looks to be closer to 35 cm with an indentation that has given way. Be careful not to pull together too much. It may affect other parts, and if an accident occurs, the beam/roof could collapse when the load-bearing capacity changes. It's no joke to support a barn; there are certain risks involved. Considering the large gap, there must be a significant outward bulge on the wall. So be careful when you're inside the barn.
Answer no, no block. There wasn't much to tighten, about 20 cm, and a 16 mm shroud can handle about 35 cm fully unscrewed. Then a support line 25 mm2 was fastened straight through the wall and a plank on the outside. There, a square washer and nut were placed on a 16 mm threaded rod. At the end towards the shrouds on the threaded rod, an eye with 16 mm was placed and connected to the shrouds. The line was tied into the shrouds and the same on the other end.R Rullsten said:
@AXS DRAGBLOCK! That's what it's called! Thanks, I was going crazy!
I'll take the opportunity to ask about the rafters that of course affect the situation. The image shows three trusses that have settled under the roof's weight and are above the mentioned crossbeam. My idea is to support with two props and a thick plank between the prop heads. Should one also apply straps to the side of the broken trusses? How long can a barn last in this condition?
