I'm a bit keen on building myself a "small" canopy on my property. I have a few cars currently parked out in the open, so I thought it should have enough space for at least 4-5 cars.

The idea is to eventually build a solid garage where I can work on the cars year-round, but until then, I want to keep them covered. Even after the garage is complete, having a place to park the cars will be useful since not all of them will fit in the heated garage later on. The "real" garage I plan to build at a different location on the property.

The dimensions I've considered are "not over 12x6 meters" (in other words, I haven't given much thought to the measurements beyond how many cars should fit).

I haven't decided whether to cast in galvanized poles or buy prefabricated posts and then build with pressure-treated wood, but the roof will definitely be corrugated metal. Which would you choose? It needs to withstand a "Gudrun" if one comes along.

I live outside the planned city area, which means sometimes a building permit is required and sometimes just a building notification suffices. So I "fired off" (why do we say that?) an email to the municipality asking for the applicable regulations, and their response was that they want me to mark on a map where on the property I plan to build and also know how tall I plan to build.

The largest vehicle I want to accommodate is my VW Transporter T3 (which is a bus, so it's the same height all the way). The bus is slightly lowered, but according to the information I find online, it originally stands at 196 cm tall. My other cars, if I open the hood, are a maximum of 185 cm, so the bus sets the minimum roof height requirement, and I don't want to have to shoehorn the vehicle in, so with the lowering, the definitive minimum roof height is 196 cm, so I'll round it to 2 meters.

Then there's the measurement from the inner ceiling to the outer roof. How thick should the roof beam be to attach the metal sheeting? Finally, the roof pitch will be higher where you drive in than at the back, but what degree of slope do you want? 4°? The pitch determines the maximum height of the roof.

These are the details the municipality wants, but while we're at it, we might as well discuss measurements too. How much overhang should I have in front of and behind the cars? This measurement determines the depth of the roof. If I build walls at the back and sides, I can have less overhang since it won't rain in regardless. How wide should I have per car?

I want to be able to open and close the doors and back in without risking scratching the other cars and be able to walk between the cars, but it's not necessary to open the doors more than just enough to squeeze out without the doors hitting the car next to it.

It doesn't matter at all if there are posts inside under the roof to support the weight.
 
I guess I'll "bump up" the thread then.
It usually doesn't take very long to get some answers on this forum.
 
B
https://www.svenskttra.se/bygg-med-tra/om-limtra/dimensioneringshjalp/

Have you checked there? There's some good stuff about dimensioning trusses and more, although I might think it sometimes suggests rather large dimensions. Says I, who can accept shoveling snow off the roof once every 10 years or so.

I would have cast my own piers and taken post shoes. My neighbor who built after Gudrun cast a couple of oil drums filled with concrete with suitable post shoes, just to be sure the wind couldn't pull up the anchoring.

Inner height. Maybe you should dimension for a roof box?

Width. Set up some cars (normal width, or extra wide) at a suitable distance from each other, and measure what is suitable for you considering door opening, and calculate a suitable width for the whole. Lay it out on the ground in a 1:1 scale so you can see how it turns out. And add a little more, it feels like you always build too small.

I think low sloping roofs collect leaves, look dirty and actually a bit dull. I think a 25-degree angle is just right. Not so many leaves end up lying then. But draw a few different options and see how the total height is affected. It might affect the impression negatively if it covers the view and so on.

Roof sheets, I believe, require around a 14-degree pitch. But read the manufacturer's instructions for the sheet, it varies with the type of sheet. I, in any case, wouldn't have chosen a 4-degree angle.

I think it's good to have a 30-40cm overhang. That way any paneling is protected if you convert this into some kind of carport with walls/garage a bit better by the roof. But it's also an aesthetic question. There are houses with 2cm overhangs too. I would guess that I prefer a bit more overhang than the average person.

I read a report about the connection between moisture problems in the paneling (for houses) and the overhang. It's a risk factor to skip the overhang. For houses. In this case, it might not matter.
 
Yes, having to occasionally shovel snow off the roof every few years is something I account for, which means that the roof must be designed to handle the weight of the snow as well as to support someone walking on it to remove the snow. With a slope of 14 degrees, that means there will be a height difference of 1.5 meters if I build 6 meters deep. Most likely, I will build it shorter, but it still seems like quite a lot if you compare it, for example, to my mom and dad's carport where the difference is only a few decimeters over a 5-meter length. "Sinus-shaped" sheet metal roof. I need to find a type of sheet metal that allows for smaller slopes. I hadn't checked that link before, but now that I have, it feels a bit difficult to navigate to find exactly the information I'm looking for.

I don't own a roof box, but on the other hand, even if I get one, I don't think a single Saab 9-5 with a roof box will be significantly higher than a VW T3 without a roof box. As for the width, I'll probably have to estimate it by measuring the cars as you suggest.
 
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