Building Materials and Construction Technology
KanoldsG: [citat] Yes, that's usually the case. The window, by the way, came 2 meters in on the wall, so there will only be three studs on that section before the window. I was wondering if there is any merit in placing them a bit closer so there won't be too few studs?
btc999: Hi, Gratefully accepting tips and advice on how we should think about these sill plates in the basement. House built in 1958. All organic material has now been removed in the basement but these? The basement smell remains and drainage will be done this year. The dehumidifier is running 24/7 and has helped a little at least. Anticimex? Tips on good craftsmen in Gbg? DIY?
mvs: After much back and forth, it has resulted in the decision that we must cast new inner walls inside the existing inner walls (i.e., a house within a house) if we decide to make new floor structures. It is a mandatory law, and we cannot get around it. With new inner walls, we would lose about 15% of floor space, which we are not interested in, so we will keep the existing floor structures to avoid
krambriw: More than 30 years ago, I built semi-circular stairs with three steps made of small concrete stones (Rustik from St Eriks). The stones were actually intended as paving stones where circular patterns were desired. I also had problems with the joints and the underlying mortar cracking/frost-heaving after a few winters. But roughly 10 years ago, I reset a few outer rows that had been blasted away
neo11: Yes, I see no problems there. However, I do see issues with ceiling height.
AndersS: Looks more like remnants of impregnation that have dried. It will disappear with the rain.
Alkej0ne: Hello! I'm going to tear out the floor in my split-level house (built in 1970) due to a bad smell. Half of the lower floor has a concrete slab with tiles. The other half has wooden beams against the concrete, which creates the bad smell. Waterborne underfloor heating is going to be installed in the house since everything will be opened up anyway. But which solution is recommended for the floor?
Hubbe73: You don't need to worry about the load-bearing capacity of that construction. The C4 surface treatment is good enough for your assembly. What could happen over time is that you might get slightly rust-colored screw heads if you live very close to the coast, where salty humid air constantly blows onto the construction. However, the screw itself is mostly screwed into the wood, which means the
FreQa: [citat] Good thought there, but I will install a modern door. The one in the picture will probably be put up. I can't make the doorway larger because then I would break the important part of a log building, namely that the lower and upper courses must be whole otherwise it will collapse.
Tage97: [citat] Hi! I'm in the same situation as you. How did you end up doing it? 😊
Newbuild: When I think about it now, we used sandpaper, upon further reflection I realize that a diamond grinder would have been more sensible. Thanks for the input, I might do it that way instead.
Casaloco: Are you thinking of erge-bjälklag? Otherwise, the general term is bjälklagskassett
joeyTribbiani: [citat] It actually works. But it applies against walls of wood or chipboard.
Mialainen: Hello! I am going to build a wardrobe storage similar to this in the hallway. I have bought kitchen frames from Ikea-method and hanging rails but no feet for the cabinets as they were too tall to fit. So my idea is to make a custom base for this and we are not very handy, so I was thinking of asking for tips to do it well? My idea is to build a base with a stud that is 45 x 70 but I don’t know
Lechuza: [citat] I did the same at home. Took flooring paper, taped it to the wall. First, I measured it so it was taped straight on the wall. Then I cut along the stairs and got the angle, then placed the paper on the plasterboard. Maybe it's easier with corrugated cardboard since it's a bit stiffer, but it might also be harder to get the angle to cut. With the paper, you can just let a little hang over
Jenny B: [citat] Bolt down into the concrete base? Ouch, that won't work for me, it's cast on a lot of stone..
Andy82: [citat] No, unfortunately, I can't find any more information about the rafters. The only thing I have found about the rafters is the draft I posted above, i.e. that they should be free-spanning truss
Olof Olofsson1: I'm planning to remove the Masonite as there are a lot of adhesive residues on it. Then lay a new floor. There's raw plank flooring underneath.
Villa1949: [citat] Still no problems at all after a few years.
klaskarlsson: [citat] Ozone helps to remove surface contaminants and odor. If it's something more fundamental, the smell will creep back again after a while.
Skånepåg: Thanks for the tips with the dukarna! 😃 Yes, they must be much more manageable than papp for my purposes! 👍
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] It is lättbetong-masoned with rebar in, probably not load-bearing.
johanosth: A few years ago, we divided a living room by building the new wall directly on the floor. Since we have water-based underfloor heating in the house, we first placed an aluminum U-profile on the floor, put a beam in it, and then fastened vertical beams and screwed into the beam. The wall is therefore not screwed into the floor. This is because we cannot screw into the floor as we don't know
magnuslink: It's the teenage son who wants to be able to have friends in the room with some music and conversation later than the rest of the family desires. Also, the opportunity to sleep a little longer than the rest of the family sometimes, without being disturbed. So I don't really know about decibels and stuff 😊 The ventilation is natural in a house built in 1972. We are about to move in and are now
NEO_AMiGA: [citat] Aaaah! Thanks for the feedback 🙏
Oldboy: Solid wood, i.e. wood paneling, is the best for such spaces.
Oldboy: Install the baseboards in the usual way and bevel the end of the corner molding so its thickness better matches the top edge of the baseboard. It might not be perfect, but it will be less ugly at least. Corner block might also work.
ArneTW: No. As long as there aren't too many vapor barriers and the dew point doesn't end up in the wrong place, it shouldn't be a problem... It will just be another air gap. If you want to add insulation, you also need to consider vapor barriers and the dew point as mentioned. /ATW