Wooden barn interior with tools, a dirt floor, and a broken concrete surface. Items like boards, a sledgehammer, and hanging bags are visible. Light from a window and door illuminates the scene.

I have a desire to convert this timbered part of the barn into a workshop. Someday...

So I started by breaking the unreinforced concrete slab with a sledgehammer!

We live on a clay field, like in many other places here in Östergötland, so I can't quite understand how I find such fine sand/soil and a heck of a lot of small stones. They must have gone far to find them all!

The previous owner's father had a cow and a horse in the stable part, so it's a bit worn, but most of it looks good.
 
My idea is to remove the old unreinforced concrete floor, excavate, and pour a new concrete floor with insulation underneath, remove the ceiling beams, frame against the log walls, insulate, raise the ceiling a bit, frame and insulate a new ceiling.

My first concern arises here with the foundation.

The door opening cannot be adjusted in height, see photo below
Old wooden door on a red timber wall above visible stone foundation, showing elevation difference, illustrating a renovation challenge related to cold bridging.
Here you can see how the door sits below the upper edge of the foundation stones. If you place the floor at the same height as the bottom edge of the door, you get about 15 cm of visible stone inside, which creates a significant thermal bridge. This is even clearer in the first picture.

To eliminate the thermal bridge, I am considering doing this

Cross-section drawing showing proposed renovation of a concrete floor, with insulation and a new door threshold, labeled in Swedish.

That is to have a step inside the door. Then I raise the floor and can come up above the foundation stones. I seal with lime mortar between the stones. I won't cut the polystyrene sheets to fit against the stones but will cast with EPS concrete, which provides some insulation and breaks the thermal bridge. At the same time, I get a finished mold for the concrete floor. I will pour the small floor first.
 
Is there anyone who can confirm/give feedback on this?
Thanks.
 
There's nothing wrong with getting a workshop, but tearing down the roof beams isn't great, as they hold the barn together across or along, so the outer walls don't start to bow outward. The rafters press the outer walls and strive to tilt outward with the force from the roof and potential snow load. If there's insufficient support, it could collapse. Careful consideration is needed to ensure the barn's walls are in place and do not move.
 
J jonaserik said:
No problem getting a workshop, but tearing down the beams is not so good; they hold the barn together across or along so that the outer walls don't start giving outwards. The roof trusses rest on the outer walls and strive to angle out with the force from the roof and any snow load. If there's insufficient support, it could collapse. It's necessary to think about how the barn's walls should stay in place and not move.
Thanks for the good input, but I have that under control. The beams rest on logs that are bolted to the inside of the timber frame. The beams can be removed, but probably not the logs. All this will be connected with the new wall being built above the upper timber course and the framed inner ceiling.
 
What you see in the first photo is thick standing plank for easier-to-clean stables. The entire frame around this room is log construction that is fully visible.
 
If only the barn's walls are held in place and the trusses' outward pressure, it should probably work. How have you thought about raising the roof?
 
J jonaserik said:
As long as the barn's walls are kept in place and the trusses' outward pressure is managed, it should work. How have you thought about raising the roof?
Sketch coming 😀
 
I would reconsider regarding the door, having a step down on the inside is something you will regret.
Install a proper modern door and take the hit that the outside will look different from today.
 
H hackatall said:
I would rethink regarding the door, having a step down on the inside is something you'll regret.
Install a proper modern door and accept that the outside will look different from today.
Good thought there, but I will install a modern door. The one in the picture will probably be put up. I can't make the doorway larger because then I would break the important part of a log building, namely that the lower and upper courses must be whole otherwise it will collapse.
 
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