Hello,
What do people say about using c4 corrseal for the framework of a deck? We're talking about larger screws to drive into the end grain to hold the framework together.
It will probably be A2 stainless steel for the decking boards later.
What do people say about using c4 corrseal for the framework of a deck? We're talking about larger screws to drive into the end grain to hold the framework together.
It will probably be A2 stainless steel for the decking boards later.
It's going well. But screwing into end grain? No, it holds less efficiently.
Yes, but on the outside, it's not the studs that should "lie in" the transverse outer beam but the opposite, then there's no purpose for the beam shoe, right? The studs are plingade and then there is a transverse beam on the outside that is pulled through the studs via their end grain...
If it's pressure-treated lumber, I would use stainless steel screws. I've had very bad experiences with C4 screws, i.e., non-stainless steel screws that are still C4 rated, with treated wood. Screws can completely rust away in just a few years.H hassl said:
Joist hangers with anchor screws. Otherwise, pocket screws. If it's just for the outermost skirting or similar, it works in end grain, but generally, all forms of screws and nails hold much worse in end grain compared to the flat side or edge.H hassl said:
Skew screwing?H hassl said:
It's fine to screw into end grain on the framework when it will later be covered with something, in this case, decking.
Messing around with joist hangers and angles is just a lot of unnecessary work and extra money.
If there are hot-dip galvanized screws, I would use those (don't know the exact classification of these).
Stainless steel is overkill for this thickness.
If I were to build a new deck today, after many years of experience with various fastening ideas, I would nail it together entirely with galvanized nails, as they last the longest.
Messing around with joist hangers and angles is just a lot of unnecessary work and extra money.
If there are hot-dip galvanized screws, I would use those (don't know the exact classification of these).
Stainless steel is overkill for this thickness.
If I were to build a new deck today, after many years of experience with various fastening ideas, I would nail it together entirely with galvanized nails, as they last the longest.
I have a dock in the Baltic Sea. Screwed everything with a4, but after repairing ice damage, I've sometimes used Essve when lacking a4. Turns out it works just as well for me, and we're talking years.
Electro-galvanized building fasteners only last a few years, so I use hot-dip galvanized L-bar that I cut and drill holes in. They are fastened with hot-dip galvanized bolts.
But for my decks, I use regular building fasteners, and they seem to have the same lifespan as the decking.
Electro-galvanized building fasteners only last a few years, so I use hot-dip galvanized L-bar that I cut and drill holes in. They are fastened with hot-dip galvanized bolts.
But for my decks, I use regular building fasteners, and they seem to have the same lifespan as the decking.
Kan själv!
· Trelleborg
· 19 612 posts
Wasn't it essve who claimed that their c4 decking screw needed a roof?
Here is a thread about Essve deck screw C4 and decking.
https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/problem-med-trallskruv-som-gar-av-ejot.317311