Building Materials and Construction Technology
Demmpa: How is it sealed/moisture-protected between the post and the panel? I can only agree with @Centano about plastic plates and breathable mat. A bit OT: We placed Bergo tiles under the balcony mat on the enclosed balcony when we lived in a condominium, it became both softer and warmer with the tiles under the mat than the mat directly on the concrete. My brother-in-law has placed Bergo tiles under
Intet: I would keep them. Paint with paint for plastered surfaces. Or, don't paint at all.
Freestyler: [citat] Yes, okay, all small improvements mean a lot with such stairs. I've checked with builders about installing a new staircase and cutting up into the living room and placing it somewhere else, but it doesn't work well no matter how I turn it. It runs over 100K, and there's no guarantee everything will be good anyway. I've been considering a platform lift instead, which could be good, but it
Tjrex: No problem ordering a steel door in those dimensions.
Tokenäs: [citat] First, you need to check if it's a surface that will wear out, like boots rubbing against the paint. In that case, powder coating is usually preferred. Otherwise, you can just try different black 2k paints and choose the finish you want, from glossy to fully matte. Regardless, practice a lot before you start painting the bike parts. The bike seems to be in good condition, and sloppy paint
Småbrukaren: You can skim coat and paint the ceiling as it is now. The problem will be getting the paint to adhere. The plastic paint should ideally be sanded off, but then the rest of the plaster might come down. If you take everything down to bare concrete, use metal studs to attach the drywall.
Vante: I used wet room gypsum that I scored on the back so it could be snapped in place.
neo11: Then it's enough to place a masonite board against it. And then paint with weber cal 246 https://www.se.weber/fasad-puts-och-murbruk-produkter-och-system/kalkbruk-kalkfarg/webercal-246-kalkfarg-vat
Nytt användarnamn_2024_1: I have a concrete wall I want to sand after casting, with my pneumatic orbital sander. Is there a sanding disc 150mm for concrete for easier processing of corners/surfaces?
JHLS: [citat] I already have a hoist beam with a trolley at the ridge, otherwise, it’s a wise thought that many probably forget. Yes, the walls can handle it. There is an existing floor, albeit with a poorer span, and many tons of hay have been stored in the loft before. The new floor will be around 40 cm above the old one. So I can keep it when I build up the new one.
Tjrex: Only seen and felt the samples. It will surely work just fine in the basement. But my advice is to buy from a real building store instead. The price likely varies so much because it is difficult to set a price per meter due to all the additional costs that arise when the building store needs to order it for you. For example, shipping, packaging, and splitting fees are often fixed costs that are
kinevenow: [citat] Awesome! Good to hear 🙂 what do you think about the first step in rebuilding? Is it enough to parge with loosely mixed C mortar in this case, or should I thoroughly moisten the substrate with water first?
BirgitS: Since it is an apartment, you can ask around among neighbors, including the board, if they know more about the wall construction and how it originally looked.
klaskarlsson: [citat] Generally, the ventilation shouldn't go through the insulation, so from that perspective, it shouldn't make a difference. If there's so much airflow today through the insulation, then there's quite a significant problem, and you definitely risk drawing too much moisture into the structure, which can lead to mold. Then I would personally recommend a vapor retarder instead of a vapor
Derbyboy: Yes, but it could be that way. Both the radiator and the windowsill are attached to the particle board.
Niklaspe: [citat] Yeah, something like that, but preferably with an insert in the channel so you could lift it out and go empty it.
MathiasS: [citat] I don't think you should draw such a conclusion. Under the slab, it is 100% RH regardless of drainage, there has to be some moisture there. Do a casting and then go back to sleep.
MrJay: IKEA Trådfri, have been running several for at least 4 years
Farstatjej90: If the door frame is loose, you can't fix it by putting some plaster on the wall; it needs to be secured first. Remove all the duct tape and then start by knocking off everything that's loose. Then take new pictures so it's clear. The frame must be attached to the wall no matter what, not with duct tape and not with plaster....🤔👍
AG A: If we disregard the floor structure between the floors, as well as the chimney. Just the roof, interior, and exterior walls, you'll end up a little under 10 tons. Around 7-8 I would guess.
pellelolo: I have dismantled a masonry stove and will install a fireplace instead. I am going to plaster the old fire wall. Can I prime with the same type of mortar that I am going to use for plastering, or do I need a special primer mortar? The fire wall is extended on both sides with lightweight concrete blocks. All plaster has been removed.
Luc Reiner: The best is to stud out and put new drywall over the entire wall.
Qbiq: [citat] And is there no risk of moving the condensation point? Should one use a vapor barrier in this case? Also, is fiberglass insulation something to avoid and instead choose wood fiber insulation or similar?
Mats-S: [citat] I did a similar conversion at the summer house when I demolished our brick fireplace and installed a Morsø cast iron stove instead. There were no problems with it, the job wasn't done by me, I hired professionals. In principle, I never hire craftsmen, but when it comes to fireplaces that need to be built/modified, I make sure to hire a well-renowned stove craftsman to avoid issues with
Afterquake: Hello. I'm about to install some drywall and was just looking at rasps. I'll need to cut my sheets to some odd measurements since the existing wall isn't built with cc 60 studs, so I think you'll want to bevel it nicely. How did the testing go? @order66
andreascarlsson: I am building a new laundry room in the basement and have built new returns for the basement window. The walls and ceiling of the return are made of plaster, but due to lack of space, I chose only 10 mm OSB as the "base plate" (the idea was that OSB holds more than plaster since the return should be able to be used as a resting area (aka "shelf")). Then I applied a layer of filler, but at the
Farstatjej90: It is quite expected that it is humid there, right? It corresponds to a basement. What problems has the humidity caused since 1984 then? So what, apart from the value on the meter, are you supposed to address?🤔 The simplest answer is to tear out what is damp.
Gulketchup: Reviving the thread again, @Sylalbin, how did you end up building?
Byggmil: Here is my theory: Place the vapor retarder directly against the plank wall if you want to create an installation layer where you can run electrics and other installations without risking perforating the vapor retarder. A practical approach that gives you flexibility during installations. To avoid condensation problems before you add exterior insulation, ensure that the existing wind barrier or