Building Materials and Construction Technology
roli: If you attach a reinforcing mesh to the construction you have already built, it will become super stable as the mesh will stabilize everything just as if you had placed a board there. The reinforcing mesh must be attached to both vertical posts.
maah: The simplest way: Remove the molding from the ceiling and install a door casing in MDF. https://www.beijerbygg.se/privat/sv/produkter/traprodukter/listverk/dorromfattning/16x200-dorromfattn-vit-l-2-44m-mdf-raw-2-868001620024
fallskydd: The data sheet mentions a lot under Application. I don't know exactly what your conditions are, but I'm thinking: * seal/tape underneath and on the sides * mask off the sides of the crack * apply a bead of epoxy over the crack, possibly using a syringe and needle * let it sink in, refill * repeat until it no longer sinks in * scrape level with the surface. It seems that it should absorb well into
mr handay: [citat] I have installed a few garage and industrial overhead doors. It's usually possible to cut the standing side rails at the bottom a little bit, but not too much.
Maxitupla: [citat] Good question. If there is an extra centimeter of space, perhaps you can fold and stuff the mat there.
Oleson: Thanks for the response. I'm a novice and didn't think there could be asbestos in gypsum. But I was told that it can exist in various sheet materials, such as gypsum.
villa Hermelin: The posts have been recently cast and will be plastered next year. The surface will be splashed/roughcast with a sprayer. I'm following a guy on YouTube with 40 years of plastering experience, and according to him, you shouldn't use mesh or primer. Instead, first apply a scratch coat about 1/4 inch thick, approximately 6 mm. A layer that is scraped horizontally, and then the final layer is
z_bumbi: There is double-sided tape that is really easy to remove, but don't ask me which ones they are as I've only seen it in American YouTube videos. The double-sided tapes I've tested "grab" immediately, while superglue without activator can be adjusted a bit. Plus, I always have superglue and masking tape at home, so I don't have to squeeze another tape roll into the tape box. The simplest way is to
Nygge72: [citat] It's heated with maintenance heat in autumn/winter/spring, and summer warms itself 😁 So the plastic stays. I also didn't really understand why there is windproof paper when there's plastic. But since it's a modular house, it was probably just done. Or maybe it was put there during construction for some reason.
MathiasS: [citat] Yes, it can be a bit tricky. I just did it on a couple of tiles, a 30x60 and a 30x30. I used the multitool with a diamond blade to grind away the grout, and then the crowbar to lift the tile. After that, the multitool again to remove old fix down to a clean surface.
Bergakung: No, wasn't aware of them, but will do it right away - thanks!
mattie_river: Hello, looking for recommendations on an inspector in Greater Stockholm who is knowledgeable about window installation.
yuphin: Is it possible to install wood concrete on the ceiling in an apartment with a concrete nail gun? Or is it necessary to drill first and use concrete screws or plugs? https://www.jemfix.se/traebetong-vit-ljudabsorb-25-x-600-x-1200-mm-fibrolith/4115/9046890/
Oldboy: If it is a log house without siding panels, it may be due to fears of moisture in the wall and, therefore, not insulated.
Nytt användarnamn_2024_1: [citat] Yes, but I would prefer to cast everything in one go. But it will be about 100kg per 10cm and meter in pressure..
Dennis_Uddevalla: [citat] It would be fun to see pictures of how it turned out. 😃
stugfar: Hi, hoping for ideas from others on construction and design. The family is requesting a wall in the niche behind the kitchen sofa that serves as a backrest. The niche is 130 cm wide and 15 cm deep. The sofa is 45 cm high. The wall in the niche is plasterboard, probably single-layer. Turn-of-the-century house, so The simplest solution might be to frame a structure with a vertical stud in the
Anonymiserad 405730: If you cannot see or determine which direction the bend in the ceiling/floor joist goes, it is not advisable to push or pull the pipe too much, as it may affect the bends that are not visible and these could be fixed and risk breaking.
imported_Benno: [citat] Also consider potential beards. With a beard, you'll never reach P3 level. 😉
preben89: a little difficult to explain but it's not possible to remove and replace chipboard or the like. I need something that can be sprayed into a 2 cm hole and fill out behind it to become hard later on. I managed to drill a hole in a crosswise chipboard/stud in the middle of a wall and want to fill this with something hard without tearing down the entire wall.
Isakare: The green in the image is Cuprinol.
Tillbaka i Sverige: Hello. This spring we bought a split-level house built in '88. The inspection report noted an elevated moisture level of 28% in the studs that are directly against the concrete wall facing the bedrock. We have now begun renovating the room in question and have torn down the drywall and fiberglass insulation to see how it looks. See attached pictures. We are considering two options for the wall:
Roobiiiiin: Hi, I've sealed a hole where pipes run between two floors, I've put insulation in and sealed with concrete on top. Today it's a bit wet underneath on the insulation and around the pipe. Nothing can leak in the vault, there's no joint there. Is it the concrete releasing water?
spikplanka: @PatrikElektriker How did it go 11 years later?
AJ82: [citat] [bild] This one. Fits well so far.
Christer G.V.: [citat] Can't keep a rat out!
sommar1111: [citat] Thanks, now I got through! I'll check it out!
MTech: [citat] The framework for the porch is built in 100×100. At the front, I have 4 posts at 3 meters, but at the back over the door, I probably need to offset the ridge beam somehow.
