Building Materials and Construction Technology
MLY: Hello! I am searching high and low for an environmentally friendly wet room sealant to replace Casco AquaSeal in a ceiling angle in a housing project - with references from another construction project. For example, Tec7 X-Seal. Technical requirements for the sealant: - BBV (should be paintable but can be left unpainted) - Pass 2- and 5-year inspection within warranty (no yellowing; no mold
Fabian W: Hi, In case anyone is interested in how it turned out: We discovered that there was a wall and a large beam under the floor, so it was reinforced only with a frame around it and a plywood board on top.
Twoflower: A small hallway and staircase with a brick roof, approximately 2.5*3.5m 1½ floors. Now that the outer wall is open for insulation, is there any point in installing studs (cc60) to possibly take down the inner panel and replace it with sheet material in the future? It looks a bit flimsy today. If so, how? Just cut the fasteners out and attach them to new studs, maybe with some panel nails
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] You mitre it at 45 degrees and then saw/cut away everything along the contour.. [MEDIA=youtube]cTjyZ1Q11Uw[/MEDIA] [MEDIA=youtube]J_v0GEU4L64[/MEDIA]
Måke: [citat] Unfortunately no picture, will send tomorrow morning.
Isakare: A structural engineer who interprets the drawings and provides a statement/certificate. I don't see it as anything strange that you need to do this. We have the same; whoever wants to renovate must produce/pay for everything needed. Your neighbors should not pay for what you are going to do, just as you don't want to pay for their renovations. If someone else wants to do the same thing, you can
Stensson11: [citat] Yes, it's fine.
jonaserik: [citat] I don't know how you search for studs, but likely with some instrument, though that isn't always enough. Then you'll have to look for them manually in other ways. The method of drilling with a drill bit might be possible, but it's probably too short and might not reach a stud in the ceiling. However, perhaps you have small, fine drill bits that are about 300 mm long; I'd like to see
Anonymiserad 405730: Much better to apply with a steel tool if one does not want or cannot strike the mortar.
Tomasharrysson: [citat] Haven't gotten there yet, but will probably straighten the wall first, then apply multipor 👌
Gabbe1: Yes, but you probably weigh much more than 28 kg.
yonna: [citat] This probably depends on where you live in the country. In the cold north with snow, snow shoveling works well. Here in the south, the problem is extreme slipperiness. Additionally, I protect the stairs from those equipped with damaging spikes. This applies to a few weeks per year.
Ajjo Jowlls: The profile on the left has fallen off, so it should actually be symmetrical. I assume it's panel since it is 240x50. The material is veneered MDF.
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] Buy a leca beam about 1500mm which you install in the course above the intended window.
swirve: Paint the panel twice before installation, a third time after mounting. Shellac on knots. Don't start in the middle but from an edge, switch holes are no problem. Measure to the center of the hole from the previous board's groove edge and drill through two at the same time. A brad nailer with 50mm brads is sufficient! For ripping, a table saw is necessary! At joints, an extra trim is likely
Jonatan79: [citat] Yes, it's not illegal to be unlucky when thinking. If you have moisture problems, you should drain.
MathiasS: Yes, you have to check with the municipality, haven't disposed of asbestos in 10 years so it might have changed, harder to get rid of now than before.
Louise1986: [citat] So a higher moisture content in the wood during autumn is not something to worry about?
Fredrik Jarl: Hello. I'm currently renovating our kitchen and plan to remove some smaller wall partitions and open up a larger wall (green). For the larger wall, I have received recommendations from a structural engineer on what beam and pillars to use. Now to my question. As seen on the drawing, there is currently a laminated beam (2700mm) supported by 3x450mm studs. But after those studs, there is a small
Savardet: Living in an apartment and struggling with a crack in the seam between the wall and the concrete floor that is giving off a strong odor. I've tried caulking it, which helped for a while (1 year) but now the smell is coming through again. I thought about removing the old sealant and redoing it, but I'm not sure what to use? I've seen videos from Americans who use a backer rod and then apply a
Matti_75: It is Weland who manufactures them. You can order them at a hardware store. There are probably more who have similar ones if you have the energy to search. [bild]
BirgitS: Sounds like some kind of clad wall, see Wikipedia. The boards are excellent for screwing into, so you usually don't need any OSB board. It's hard for someone here to know how curved the plank wall is and if it therefore needs alignment, so you'll probably have to measure it. The drywall was added much later than 1936, so you can remove it to see how it looks and if the walls are somewhat straight
Jonatan79: Install a vapor retarder or wind barrier, not plastic/vapor barrier.
S-hills: [citat] Sorry, I was a bit unclear, the concrete slabs 240x120 are to be cast in expanding concrete and be outside the conservatory. Above the foam blocks. My experience with all the concrete slabs we cast at work, e.g., unheated garages, etc., would be warmer without foam underneath. But you might be right. 5 cm of foam underneath might not be such a bad idea.
Rickard.: If I remember correctly, it's 30cc if you screw the drywall in the same direction as the studs and a maximum of 40cc across the studs. However, I don't think one will enjoy the few pennies one could theoretically save with 40cc instead of 30, so I know what I would choose. Norgips has a very comprehensive handbook for drywalling, not rocket science but there is certainly something sensible there
Prettuchaos: [citat] I use the plastic ones with double-sided tape (e.g., Byggmax). Cut them to L. Stick them on and possibly staple the ends. Then putty, paint caulk, and color [bild] [bild] [bild]
Holpers: [citat] I was thinking of gluing and screwing with a 42mm wood screw. The diagonal brace adds a bit of extra stability, I think.
Demmpa: How is it sealed/moisture-protected between the post and the panel? I can only agree with @Centano about plastic plates and breathable mat. A bit OT: We placed Bergo tiles under the balcony mat on the enclosed balcony when we lived in a condominium, it became both softer and warmer with the tiles under the mat than the mat directly on the concrete. My brother-in-law has placed Bergo tiles under