Building Materials and Construction Technology
kentyts: True.. 5 cm from combustible material to the outside of the chimney pipe (attaching description in the safety manual from where I bought the kit from). I'm installing the stove in a shed (for the moment) so I don’t really need to call a chimney sweep now if I understand correctly, but I still want to do it correctly for future inspection if the house would be reclassified as an "attefall".
Thomas_Blekinge: [citat] Check here: https://montano.se/product.html/varmforzinkad-plat?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAoae5BhCNARIsADVLzZfZKPRr3TsBkPixxEvE1thjDJv6_OcoUSoLcBSlOrqVE8dHWfpVR_saAibnEALw_wcB
BirgitS: In houses with wooden stud wall construction, there is usually a stud on each side of the window to which the window frame is attached. Often, these studs go all the way down to the floor, so those can be good places to start looking for studs.
prototypen: Router in a router table or do it with a table saw. Protte
Fethajja: [citat] What is the advantage of double drywall in the ceiling, less cracking or what? Considering the double material cost.
Sir Duke: [citat] I used Cembrit fiber cement board. Same dimensions as standard drywall. Flush with the drywall walls next to it. It is fireproof. So no external insulation was needed. I painted everything with regular wall paint afterward, and it has withstood the heat so far.
largab: I laid Platon plus wooden flooring in the basement lounge 25 years ago. House built in '71. Works very well. Doesn't feel cold. You don't need to remove the tiles. Do as you planned. Your basement seems healthy, will stay that way for another 50 years.
Rasmuzs: Lovely to see! Got a quote for Contura i50 where just the labor cost was 55,000:-. So nice to see that it's doable!
myrstack: Theoretically, if your kalksan goes down under the tile, it will affect all cement-based materials, but it would likely take an extreme amount over a longer time for this to be the main reason that tiles come loose if the tiles had full coverage before. Possible yes, likely (as the main reason) not really.
Christer G.V.: [citat] Attaching to the OSB boards is more than sufficient.
Håbbe01: If the odor problem is in the crawl space, the easiest solution would be to ventilate it directly out through the crawl space wall with a duct fan. Mechanical exhaust air in the house also draws up odor from the foundation. The dehumidifier also seems to create a positive pressure in the foundation that helps transfer it to the house.
Silver78: Hello. Currently, I have a vacation home with a wood-burning stove in the kitchen where I plan to renovate from a crawl space to an insulated floating slab with underfloor heating. The technical tank connected to the heating system, together with the hydrobox, is unfortunately in the attic, which is a risky construction since there’s no possibility for a good solution regarding floor drain and
Hassegu: 👌Then I'll go with that. Thank you so much for taking the time to respond!
etompau: How the cable was routed to the concrete mount/fixture should depend on how the things were constructed. It's hard to guess remotely how the cable entered the mount and foundation. Especially if it's equipment that's over 50 years old. Maybe the cable was routed to some storage building next to the house; I don't think it goes into the foundation of the house.
Lord af Konrad: I am renovating some rooms in the basement of my 70s house. Since the exterior walls are insulated and wooden studs were used directly against the exterior wall, I expected moisture and possibly mold in the walls. However, after making several larger holes in the walls, I can confirm that it is completely dry and in perfect condition. When I removed the baseboards, I discovered mold on the inside
ulfben: After taking down the old fence, we were left with a pile of junk on the lawn. The old slats were completely worn out, but the rails were basically in good condition – except for being bent and having some moss. There was also a bit of rot around the bolt holes, but that’s easy to cut away. [bild] Instead of having to haul away all the dismantled material, I decided to build a woodshed out of
Ankart: Thank you so much. What difference does primer actually make? Is it the adhesion? Also wondering what you meant by screw tighter?
cpt: [citat] Yep, it is heated, but otherwise a good idea 👍🏻
mats.froberg: Hello all plasterers, I am building an apartment in a former sewing factory and have changed from larger windows to smaller ones in a bedroom. The facade is a thick plaster and the new windows are installed with regular 120x45 studs. I would like to place some kind of board in the space between the former larger windows and the installed smaller ones, on which I can apply a thinner plaster about
pette: Was in Germany this summer and visited several places where I saw some kind of cork joint in the seam between wooden floors and adjoining surfaces, in areas where there were quite long stretches of wooden floors. Thus, a completely "seamless" connection to adjoining floors. I guess the cork joint can absorb/follow quite large movements. Attaching a picture that is quite poor. Does anyone know
Bonzo2000: [QUOTE="g.kraft, post: 5964928, member: 494549"] Oops, I completely missed that I was replying to an old thread. But generally, these figures apply:
Alexn72: Everything that contains still air insulates, i.e., lecakulor insulate and are completely insensitive to moisture. If you heat the floor, you get a condensation point that lies somewhere in the leca layer. Any moisture "stays" there, but if the moisture comes from below, you will likely also have moisture that migrates upwards but does not condense (wood floors are then risky). If the moisture
Andreas Kneg: No answers? No one dares? Maybe some answer?
jonnyb05: Thank you for taking the time to check, it'll be those ones👍👍
Victor Paju: [citat] Hmmm I don't think it should be airtight if you're not running the vent simultaneously... you're trapping moisture and it can't go anywhere... it comes from underneath with these uninsulated slabs (which I have) But thanks for the reply! I have Etab tape so I might just use that all around for a bit of vapor barrier and zone when the exhaust air is activated. I ordered a fan that will run
Johan Gunverth: [citat] Your professional will handle it splendidly! You should probably let them do the application as they see fit. The instructions were meant for DIYers. The important thing is that you have the right expectations. That's why I mentioned that the soft sealant isn't a permanent installation. I have 20-year-old soft sealants that have started to loosen a bit now, but you don't notice unless you
Fjollfisk: I have a house from ~1850 in southwestern Skåne. Built from clay bricks in a double row. The foundation wall is natural stone and I haven't found any wooden beams under the outer wall, instead, it seems to rest directly on the foundation wall. I have currently excavated most of the old earth floor in the hall and removed the styrofoam that was on top. The old joist that was in poor condition has