Building Materials and Construction Technology
Gulketchup: Reviving the thread again, @Sylalbin, how did you end up building?
Byggmil: Here is my theory: Place the vapor retarder directly against the plank wall if you want to create an installation layer where you can run electrics and other installations without risking perforating the vapor retarder. A practical approach that gives you flexibility during installations. To avoid condensation problems before you add exterior insulation, ensure that the existing wind barrier or
oddan: No one with any input or experiences?
-Vinnie-: Hi everyone! I am currently sitting with a torn-out rec room with (now) bare concrete walls. Previously, painted wood panels and insulation were directly nailed on, resulting in mold. They are 60s concrete blocks that are quite smooth, and at first, I thought of plastering everything, but it's over 30m2 and I'm not up for it. Is it okay to tidy up the joints with plaster mortar c and then paint
Skogsmusen: I vote for no.1. Put the plasterboard edge to edge (Red). Glued the plasterboard with PL 400. Bought a bag of kanelbullar, usually works as currency. Drove to the nearest sheet metal shop with measurements and got an aluminum angle strip bent with a flange. Color code 0502Y G30. (Green). What the corner profile looks like (Orange, image 2). [bild] [bild]
fribygg: [citat] We are all going to die. No serious study is likely to show that one lives a shorter or worse life if they have (or do not have window sills) regardless of what they are made of.
max99: [citat] Did you get them loose, is it crowbar, breaker knife or how are they attached? Regards
Tguerino: [citat] asbestos is only dangerous if you're afraid of it / regards, plumber💪
oliven1: Many overestimate the properties of ultraboard (there are several others), it is absolutely harder and can handle more loads but not more moments. So it rarely helps to use this board. It is much better to inset OSB between the studs or alternatively use metal straps.
O: [citat] OK. But isn't it enough to just redo the plaster on that wall?
Fredrik..B: Considering buying a Prefabricated house with a basement built in 1962. The house has never been renovated. Wondering about different solutions for renovation in various spaces, kitchen, bathroom, roof replacement, etc. There are cracks in the surface layer, including in the living room, above windows, and in the wall between the kitchen and living room. Has anyone experienced this and needed
vanpire: Don't have an answer to your ceiling question, but having only 70 mm from the outside to the vapor barrier sounds a bit low. 45 + 70 mm is, as you say, better from an insulation standpoint, but place the vapor barrier on the innermost side.
jonaserik: [citat] They are probably screwed or nailed to the top and bottom rail, then puttied and painted to hide the fastening.
Oldboy: If the mold dries out and becomes inactive, the mold smell will disappear. Presumably in a few weeks.
DennisL68: How did you solve this? I have a similar project in the works that I'd love to get some tips on...
ryyti: have a house built in 1939😁 Currently renovating the basement. There is a level difference in the floors of about 120mm. (old garage) I want to raise the level of that floor to match the rest of the house. I’m open to suggestions / opinions / experiences. I'm considering: eps cement 120mm 21m² = expensive Raising the level with gravel or alternatively Leca and pouring about 50mm of
Laxar: [citat] There were more screws with sealant from underneath. No more leak ✅
Chivas66: Hello I am wondering which steel studs to use when building a new interior wall in the basement against the exterior wall. There are both 45 and 70 mm, and what distance from the wall and steel stud?
Tompafix: There you have the cause of the problem probably. Maybe together with too few fresh air vents.
plåtrickard: I also think it looks good... But make sure to seal under the sheet before installation if it leaked before..
Stefan N: [citat] About the product Gullex Murcement A is a universal binder for mixing with aggregate (sand) and water for masonry and plaster mortar classes A-C.
Funkis-Matte: [citat] It's enough that I notice it😁 I'm particular with this kind of thing and want it like the original. If I had found a taller one with the same slope, I would have bought it and cut it at the bottom. But I only find shorter ones. And I don't want that. Also in plastic. And for that price, I thought it was worth it:) but many probably wouldn't have cared. I think I'm doing the apartment a
Thomas_Blekinge: I have a house with a basement with only an external basement staircase. And I hate it. My basement is invaluable with space for an extra freezer, beer storage, workshop, and other storage. It's a hassle to have to put on outdoor shoes, outerwear according to the season every time. I love my basement and could never imagine a house without it. I have actually thought several times about building
Leonita DG: [citat] Yes. I realized I got it a bit wrong. The opening itself should only be 4m. Maybe even 3.50. There is also a chimney right through the house next to where an opening will be.
Isakare: Waterproofing layers have always existed in one way or another. Rolled layers in the 80s/90s were sensitive. Tiles/ceramics directly on concrete are mostly in basements and similar places; older apartments in concrete/stone had asphalt/tar behind them.
Byggare Bob 71: I'm planning to encase this piece in our fireplace at the cabin. I need to widen the opening and plan to rebuild the fireplace with lecablocks and widen it on the right side. Then, I will seal the opening on the left side so that the opening is only straight ahead where I'll insert the unit. The question is: does it work with lecablocks and regular mortar? Or does it have to be fireproof stone
fallskydd: Open the cans and smell. The pigmented variant is classified as a pesticide. Read the safety data sheet. I would heat up the garage.
Dr Benz: How do I install water lines in the nicest and best way? I'm planning to run LK RiR 16 through the wall to the sink, is there any reasonable alternative? For the toilet, maybe RiR and a wall connection too, but it might be a bit odd with the hose from the toilet going to the right? Alternatively, copper pipe that extends towards the toilet so the connection is straight to the back wall as it