Building Materials and Construction Technology
hempa111: For the recessed lights, you probably just attach pots that are fastened to the 28x70 lumber, or were you planning to build drywall boxes for the recessed lights?
hempa111: You don't need to plaster the entire floor; you can plaster locally but don't forget to use primer first and then you can advantageously sand the edges to make the new plaster blend with the old floor.
hempa111: Go to the rental company and rent a grinder/flex machine and sand the surface so that the filler adheres and use the original floor to get a homogeneous floor. The machine looks like an angle grinder but has a diamond blade that sands the surface. Could you upload pictures of the floor as it is today so I can help you further?
hempa111: Foam insulation is a convenient way to install windows in, for example, brick houses or in masonry basements, etc., but you should keep in mind that you have less adjustment possibilities when using foam compared to frame screws. Which method you want to use is, of course, up to you, but a tip is that with today's energy-efficient windows where the frames are much heavier than traditional
Mats: Build a sturdy frame of e.g., 45X45 and use metal straps or similar to secure all joints. Then I would cover it with plywood or similar material. Bonus if you make one side openable. For the light fitting, I would use the same metal straps again and place them in a cross over the box.
toker78: Yes, that's right... how silly of me not to think of using a long and straight ruler. I'll just try to get it as straight as possible because the brick that's there is quite uneven. My idea is to get the brick as straight as possible and then fill it in to mount the cabinets. If there happens to be a small gap somewhere, one could maybe seal it with the same seal as between the bricks, so
Dregen: Yes, it is possible to build an open fireplace yourself, depending on how "skilled" you are. Depending on the weight, you may need to create a foundation for it to stand on. I'm considering installing a fireplace and got the suggestion from a relative who is a bricklayer to build an open fireplace and insert an insert. http://www.dinbyggare.se/artiklar/artikel.asp?docid=299
Majgårdarna: [citat] No, I don't have one. I've tried to get one, but it seems to be nowhere to be found:confused: The wall seems to be standing on a wall in the basement.
Dregen: What I did was to install a load-bearing beam, a 45x195 against the hammarband, this "beam" was extended to the studs next to the window on both sides. Then I installed the window. I lose a little insulation where the stud is placed, but better that than putting stress on the window.
injonil: It ended up being concrete after all, and I think it went well. I didn't use any stones at all but instead filled the hole with concrete. It was a bit tricky to get the concrete dry enough so it wouldn't flow away and at the same time wet enough to adhere. I made dry concrete and sprayed with water where I needed it to adhere. It worked well, but it would have been fun to see how a pro would have
Totte_S: Well, yes. We've nailed studs between the posts at the top. We used 49*95, one on each side. Although it would have looked nicer with a width of 140 or 170, and also, regular exterior paneling at 22 thickness is more than sufficient. If you're building with pressure-treated lumber, perhaps 28*120 would be okay. But these crossbars don't do much for stability; the reinforcement mesh, however,
gbak: I was there myself yesterday morning and covered the parts that the carpenters hadn't done themselves. Then I looked a bit closer at what had gotten wet, and according to the construction manager, the floor chipboards are supposed to withstand water (there should be some form of impregnation in them). The insulation that was wet was only wet on the inside and will probably dry up. We need to
Jensa1: [citat] Go to Maxit.se and you'll definitely find concrete that suits you; I could recommend Exm 711 or Exm 712, they set in about 45 minutes! I work at maxit!
BOY-GP: Let nothing but imagination set the limits Wedi® is an approved hard foam building board for wet rooms. With Wedi®, you have free rein to design your bath or shower room. From the simplest shower wall to a complete SPA. Whether you choose straight or curved shapes, you have a space-efficient building system at your disposal. You avoid masonry, plastering, form setting, and drying times. Wedi®
Kalarne: Thank you for the feedback! It should be added that the steps should rest on top of the vangstyckena, so no milling. The reason I choose 60 mm thick vangstycken is that I want 360 mm wide glulam beams. The staircase will be in a large holiday home with two bedrooms upstairs. I agree that a 90-degree turn with only three steps is not ideal.
Poggan: Hmm, it feels like the wind barrier will eventually give way and let water through into the insulation. Hmm, can't you protect the insulation with a tarp?
Micke H: Take a piece of the joint to the store and ask for help to get the same hardness in the new mortar, otherwise it can crack and fall off. Scrape out as much of the joints as you can - preferably so that it is deeper than the height of the joint (there's probably some rule). Water the brick thoroughly - spray bottle or lime brush and brush for about a day and refill as needed - otherwise the new
thomasd79: have heard that static electricity builds up in ordinary pipes resulting in blockages
andersmc: 1 It depends on what you mean by "sufficient stability." It will be a "normal" wall of single drywall, and it won't bend or sway by itself. If you're going to hang up the vv-beredaren, then it's not sufficient. 3 70mm is probably normal. 5 There are drywall screws intended for metal studs.
Mikado: [citat] Thank you Farzan, I should find the right panel there......Perfect!
fth: Hello! I am going to build a small basement that will serve as a foundation for a conservatory adjacent to my new vacation home. The basement will be built with lightweight aggregate blocks 19x19x59cm on a cast slab. The size is approximately 7.5x2.5x1.6m (LxWxH), i.e., 12x4x8 blocks. I have read the documents available at Maxit and Finnja, and searched a lot of threads on this forum, but I still
mins: In another part of our house (which I haven't renovated myself), the previous owner built with 45x45 and insulated. Additionally, he took the opportunity to run the electricity. But it requires a bit of extra work around all the windows, etc. Furthermore, old houses should be insulated with some caution. Regarding the vp-pipes, mine are directly under the plasterboard. I don't think there's any
Ulrik74: Hello! I have a question about aerated concrete suppliers and what made you choose a particular supplier besides the price? What were the positives and negatives with each supplier? I would be very grateful for those who would like to share their experiences from completing their houses with aerated concrete or are in the process. Also, what might be positive or negative during different seasons?
sjalvdrag: Looking for the mixing ratios for 8mm base coat render. Grateful for help!
holyanna: Thank you BAS. At first, I was like a question mark, but now I've ordered a skurupsborr. This is going to be exciting!
daniel_168: Ok, I suspected that. I now realize how expensive this project is going to be.
sa3afc: Go ahead with the expander anyway, it will just be a minimal hole, dab in some silicone/latex if you're extra careful.