Building Materials and Construction Technology
eestere: I am 183cm and my wife is somewhat shorter, but I understand very well what you mean! The reason is that I have to place the joists 220cm from the floor. The construction is in 20cm LECA. If I lower the windows to 200cm, then I can place a LECA beam above and then proceed with the joists. But maybe there are other ways?? The joists are 20cm and there might be some special beam shoes that can be
BAS: Also consider if you have that much "exhaust air." It worked well in '47 when the chimney was heated by an oil/wood stove, but how warm is the chimney now?
Lymmeln: Hello, I have just bought metal angles for internal corners with a paper strip, these are available for external corners that you want. I found mine at Caparol, 2.40 meters long and about 50:- + VAT each.
OLJensa: Between screws on the outer edges at 200mm centers in the middle row 300.. Screws approximately one centimeter in from the edge... Eh, what the heck, read here (it says almost everything you want to know): http://www.gyproc.se/Gyproc/Files.nsf/0/3E745B689AFD8B13C1257427003DF2AC/$FILE/HfH_2008.pdf
BLA: When it comes to cold storage facilities, it's usually colder inside than outside. Shouldn't the vapor barrier be placed the opposite way compared to a regular house, i.e., with the vapor barrier placed outward? Since heat seeks cold, and in a cold storage facility, it's the opposite, if the vapor barrier is placed inside, there could be a high risk of condensation. :rolleyes: Best regards, BLA
Melkerman: Sounds good Larsa! I should be able to set some kind of post(s) in a wall to divide the space under the roof. Maybe then one can reach 170?
daun: Thank you for all the answers, now it's just a matter of deciding which path I should take :)
imported_Byggaren: [citat] Yep! It is possible and that's how you usually do it when you're unsure if you can cut the bars or not. You can also prop support from underneath, cut the bars in the middle and bend them up, so that you can place the frame inside the bars and weld them to the back and then cast the gap again. Then you take a slightly larger hole than intended to make room for both the frame and concrete.
anaitis: [citat] Yes [citat] Requires a bit more than a list of formulas. Sorry
yuphin: Hi, yes the outer walls are insulated as usual. The thing is, I got a tip to do this because this new room will need a temperature of about 15 degrees in the winter while the rest of the cabin will have about 5 degrees plus. So the idea was to keep the warmth in the new room and not let it escape through the wall into the cooler space. But maybe I'm thinking wrong?
grävaren: There should not be any plastic between two heated floors
Melie: Thank you for your response :-) as long as the bruket isn't too loose, it seems to have worked okay without a form.
jerk: We built with kub and made a regular wooden joist.
snickar_lasse: nail with 60mm galvanized wire nail or 41 drywall screw
petersk: Try TorkaS available for download here: http://www.fuktcentrum.lth.se/TorkaS/torkas.htm
fränis: I'm going to remodel the kitchen at home. The kitchen will include a wall to a hall. I'm thinking of making a trellis out of this wall to create a more airy kitchen. Does anyone have a nice idea for a trellis?
OLJensa: Assuming you are mounting in concrete!? You can use screws that are 30-40 mm long with matching plugs at a maximum distance of 50 cm from each other. Tip: drive a coarse nail through the tracks where you're going to place the screw and plug before you install them...
LUDDET: I will be installing 60 x 120 cm Huntonit panels in a ceiling of 36 sqm. It should result well even if they are installed "staggered," right? In other rooms, I've aligned the cross seams in a straight line but end up with quite a lot of waste. I would be happy to get some feedback!!
magnusss: If it is concrete, yes, you need a rotary hammer drill. If it is brick, an impact drill is sufficient. It costs 2-300 SEK to rent, but if you think you'll need it more times, it might be worth buying. There are some that aren't too expensive. I bought one like this, and it works great! http://www.clasohlson.se/Product/Category.aspx?id=251146#30-9689 Also, www.jula.se has cheap rotary hammer
snickarboden: Should work, but keep in mind that a coarser weave hides minor imperfections while a fine weave like Microlit doesn't hide a thing. In other words, a coarser weave is likely the most suitable. First, remove any loose putty and paint, then apply putty. It’s probably essential to have a lot of fluorescent lights here since it may be difficult to get good lighting in a basement. /Kent
wolffi: Had to fireproof one wall against the neighbor. So there were some changes in the construction plan.
snickar_lasse: hello hempa ! what you mention is probably correct. which system applies when mounting in this way?
magnus74: Well...not sure if this is the same. For example, I don't think the studs are attached to the bottom plate, but I'm not sure. I'll get back to you on this. If it is an EW-grund, I assume the studs can't just be removed, since they seem to have a load-bearing effect as well as holding the insulation in place?
Peter_K: Well, I suspect that the wind is blowing in at the eaves as it's drafty in the gaps between the floorboards in the built-in wardrobe. It's hard to know how everything is constructed since one wasn't there when it was built in 1965 :)
anaitis: [citat] It might be wise to use some temporary props near the chimney.
lobbin: Yes, exactly :) the question was whether the wall was load-bearing.