I have applied a thin strip of foam sealant from the outside as wind/rain protection. Inside, I use insulation and then finish with a backer rod and sealant.
According to window suppliers and many carpenters I've talked to, insulation is recommended. It is significantly quicker to use foam sealant, so I understand why many craftsmen prefer it.
There is regular foam sealant that is designed for a gun (costs about 80 SEK). Then there is a more expensive foam sealant that is developed for use with windows. It is more elastic and has a movement tolerance of about 10-15 percent. Additionally, it is environmentally friendly.
According to window suppliers and many carpenters I've talked to, insulation is recommended. It is significantly quicker to use foam sealant, so I understand why many craftsmen prefer it.
There is regular foam sealant that is designed for a gun (costs about 80 SEK). Then there is a more expensive foam sealant that is developed for use with windows. It is more elastic and has a movement tolerance of about 10-15 percent. Additionally, it is environmentally friendly.
Sheep and sheep, it probably depends on who you ask.
However, make sure to apply thin layers if you foam something that can be opened. Otherwise, the risk is that the foam expands sideways instead of in length, and then you might trap the window shut.
However, make sure to apply thin layers if you foam something that can be opened. Otherwise, the risk is that the foam expands sideways instead of in length, and then you might trap the window shut.
It is only health hazardous, unless you eat it of course, when burned and in uncured form because a component in polyurethane is isocyanate, which is considered to cause allergies and asthma through inhalation and skin contact.Gonate said:
But I wouldn't worry, it's a matter of such small amounts...
I can't say what is best, but we foamed all our windows (brick house). It went very quickly, was easy, and holds well. (It has survived 2 storms so far.) We haven't had any problems with the operable windows. What's important is to allow the foam to expand both outwards and inwards, so you don't risk jamming the frames.
The reason we foamed was on the recommendation of 2 independent professional carpenters. (again...brick house)
The reason we foamed was on the recommendation of 2 independent professional carpenters. (again...brick house)
I also have the same thought. What I have concluded is that it is easier/safer to use a backer rod if you are inexperienced, considering the expansion of the foam. But if you use a backer rod, as I understand it, you should apply a diffusion-tight seal on the inside and therefore you should first insert a backer rod for the seal, which means there are more steps. The joint foams should be diffusion-tight if I have understood correctly.
Foam goes quickly and is easy if you have a gun for the foam. Much cheaper than draught strips and just as good. Place small wooden wedges between the frame and the jamb all around so the foam can't expand and push out the jamb. One bottle of foam is enough for many windows.
I am not familiar with this foam gun you mention; with the foam I bought, there's a nozzle on the can, and it's good to go... available at all hardware stores. I think the risk of frame settling due to foam expansion might be a bit exaggerated. Level & Wedge the window, spray and make sure the foam can expand outward and inward. No problem! It's when you have enclosed spaces and restrict expansion that things can go wrong. I had never used foam before, installed 15 windows (11 operable) of which the first was with a carpenter friend. No window has had any frame settling. Incredibly handy tool, construction foam; once you start using it, you can't stop. 
. The foam is insensitive to moisture but SENSITIVE to UV radiation!
. The foam is insensitive to moisture but SENSITIVE to UV radiation!Foam insulation is a convenient way to install windows in, for example, brick houses or in masonry basements, etc., but you should keep in mind that you have less adjustment possibilities when using foam compared to frame screws. Which method you want to use is, of course, up to you, but a tip is that with today's energy-efficient windows where the frames are much heavier than traditional windows, you experience stress on the frame with each opening/closing of the window. With that in mind, at least I want the ability to adjust the window since I belong to the category of people who don't like when things stick or don't work.