Building Materials and Construction Technology
Kissekatten: Old Husqvarnas are usually not too difficult to find spare parts for. Check with a stove shop nearby and they can help you. If you switch to a new stove, you might have to do some masonry work, move the connection piece, and do some masonry/plastering on the sides if the new stove is smaller. It's not a tricky job, just make sure the connection is tight so the chimney sweep doesn't have anything
Bautanalle: Sounds reassuring :) The opening that the beam spans is about 4 meters, and it is supported in the middle by a "järnstång/pelare". I don't know the exact length of the beam, but it shouldn't be a problem to temporarily support the last bit. I'll check with a mason what they would charge for the job.
ashleyjonathan: In the end, I managed to find 4 pieces at 5.4m at Optimera in Länna! But after a lot of searching....:)
robowich: Does anyone know the price of these sheets from Finja?
Gladh: [citat] Completely unscientifically, my first thought is to drill in and attach rebar into the house foundation and then attach (weld?) the concrete pier's rebar to the rebar that is in the house foundation. But I'm not a concrete worker so it might be completely off the wall, but it sounds good, right :D - M
trimsten: [citat] No, the load-bearing part is already taken care of, I left that to the professionals. One must recognize their limitations. In other words, it's just regular simple inner walls. It seems like I'm on the right track; there shouldn't be any problem adding extra support for the walls. Incidentally, I had to return the chipboard today, there were no problems at all. The only issue was getting
Bjarven: My wife just read the thread and... The diagonal is just over 7 m. Just in case anyone noted that my patio was 6*4 m.:D
alacs: Tach estwing, that's something we also thought. Materials are here and it's the same person who did everything, i.e., also plastering.
Watchmen: The fastest way is otherwise to cut up the floor. And chisel where needed. 20m2 you cut up in 2h-3h, depending on how large the pieces are cut.. Then it's just a matter of carrying out the pieces.
Flahultarn: Planning to set up a wall-mounted aquarium, and looking for how much weight they can support in the type of log wall in question. Can anyone suggest where I can find data for different thicknesses?
Jan-L: If I had an old brick house with plastered walls (which is among the most beautiful things I know, congratulations on that house), I would have soaked off the wallpaper and repaired the plaster... However, I am not sure I would have bothered to channel all the electricity, as I think a really nice surface wiring with kulo can look really stylish. You can also integrate an external wiring with
titanium: 45 studs will be too weak. 70 studs is the minimum if you have chipboard. You should preferably have 45x95 if you are using plasterboard. Important for good soundproofing is to, for example, offset the studs with insulation in between. So that you don't have wood contact between the two rooms. Something like this: X X X X X Optimally, I think 45x95 with chipboard or OSB and plasterboard on the
blackadder: I've made a bunch of railings, and I usually go out to the customer to measure and discuss any potential solutions/design issues. Then the boss estimates approximately how much time and material will be needed and then gives a price, unless it's on an hourly rate basis. Installation or not is usually 50/50.
Donald Trump: My wall does not look like yours but still has gypsum, plywood, and plastic (counted from the inside) and passed the pressure test gallantly as the electricians were very meticulous. As mentioned, do not buy this argument from the company and make sure it is done before the final inspection.
Mikael_L: My nail gun allows you to adjust a small "mothåll" by the nose to set the nail depth. It works, even though it's some cheap version of a gun. I still adjust the pressure as well, to just barely get the nails in at the right depth, not sure if it's unnecessary to have both belt and braces. So there's still some post-nailing work. But I'd rather have that than a lot of deep holes in the façade
wagis: Just put up the boards! 60cc is standard, and if you're going to put both osb and drywall, they'll be stable enough.
eggen: Thank you for your tips! I'll try to get started with a steady hand!!
Gladh: [citat] Have you checked whether the truss can handle the outward movement of the support wall, and if so, how much? If not, consult with a structural engineer who can do a calculation for you, it wouldn't be fun if you move it too far and the truss gives way. - M
anaitis: [citat] I don't believe that for a moment! EkoVilla has a lambda value of 0.041 while mineral wool has 0.037, i.e., the mineral wool insulates about 11% better! Your 30 cm EkoVilla therefore corresponds to approx. 27 cm of mineral wool!
andersmc: It's not too difficult with råspont; it goes quite quickly to lay. Make sure the boards are of good quality, so they're not crooked or pinching in the tongue and groove. That's mostly what takes time. Think ahead before you start, so you have boards of the right length. Try to cut everything in advance so that it's just a matter of loading up and nailing. If you have to measure every single
Ingenjören: To answer whether it's possible to remove these "balkar," you might need to explain a bit more! Are they floor joists or the bottom chord of a truss? Can't you include a drawing of the house or sketches of what you want to do? A safer way is to contact a structural engineer who can look on-site and come up with a solution. /The Engineer
mins: Considering previous responses, I have to be a bit of a counterpoint :) Just slap it on, and then paint. That way, you'll get a surface that follows the brick, and smaller blemishes disappear with the slamming. I think it gives a pleasant feel of both the plaster and the brick. Knock off all the old plaster, make sure everything loose is removed. Mix the mortar to a slightly looser porridge. With
Watchmen: I fix the tightness by always buying the sheets 5mm larger and pressing them in. As the U-value of the lowest cellplast is 0.038 and the best is 0.033. I will use cellplast in both the ceiling and walls. However, there are sw elements and hd-f decks as intermediate floors and as the ceiling. Therefore, I get a high fire rating.
phulden: I have moved from a wooden house to an apartment built in the 60s. Everything is concrete and it's a bit new for me. In connection with renovation, all moldings must be replaced, i.e., mostly baseboards and casings. The baseboards are attached solely to concrete and the casings to concrete at one edge and a door frame at the other edge. I am quite picky when it comes to moldings. I don't want any