4,197 views ·
10 replies
4k views
10 replies
Renovating a room in a 1930s villa
Hi!
I am going to renovate the first room in our house from the 1930s. The room is quite small and is located upstairs, making it feel like a good first project.
I want to do everything as well as possible within reasonable limits. For example, I want the electrical wiring to be recessed into the wall. Smooth and stable walls.
The walls consist of semi-loose masonite on top of some kind of board/plank wall. In some places, mostly exterior walls, it feels a bit spongier.
The floor consists of planks that are a bit wobbly in some areas.
Does anyone know any good reading tips or have a concrete work plan? For example, how much should I tear down?
Thanks in advance!
I am going to renovate the first room in our house from the 1930s. The room is quite small and is located upstairs, making it feel like a good first project.
I want to do everything as well as possible within reasonable limits. For example, I want the electrical wiring to be recessed into the wall. Smooth and stable walls.
The walls consist of semi-loose masonite on top of some kind of board/plank wall. In some places, mostly exterior walls, it feels a bit spongier.
The floor consists of planks that are a bit wobbly in some areas.
Does anyone know any good reading tips or have a concrete work plan? For example, how much should I tear down?
Thanks in advance!
On the interior walls, you should be able to tear down the Masonite and screw up drywall. And before the drywall is installed, you can carve grooves for the electrical wiring. Could they be plastered exterior walls?
I personally glued and screwed chipboard on a creaky wooden floor, on which I then laid laminate. It is stable and nice today. However, I don't know if that is how it is "usually" done.
I personally glued and screwed chipboard on a creaky wooden floor, on which I then laid laminate. It is stable and nice today. However, I don't know if that is how it is "usually" done.
How do I embed the electricity in flat walls?
Can I drill holes at the top and then try to fish the conduit down to the box by the baseboard, or do I need to tear down the entire plank wall, install the conduits, and then nail the planks back up again?
Can I drill holes at the top and then try to fish the conduit down to the box by the baseboard, or do I need to tear down the entire plank wall, install the conduits, and then nail the planks back up again?
Last edited:
In the worst case, your plank wall may be load-bearing if it's exterior walls. Our "planks" are 5 cm thick there. For safety's sake, they are also tongue-and-groove and nailed at an angle. Then you have to drill, chop, and rout if you dare and hope to miss the nails.
If you have a "regular" plank wall, the simplest way is probably to remove a board where the electricity will go.
If you're not afraid of losing a little space, one option might be to leave the tretex in place, rout the electricity into it, and then put drywall on top.
If you have a "regular" plank wall, the simplest way is probably to remove a board where the electricity will go.
If you're not afraid of losing a little space, one option might be to leave the tretex in place, rout the electricity into it, and then put drywall on top.
In our 30s (yeah, it was 1927), the supporting planks were used as the outer wall, with horizontal "fulbitar" as the inner wall. Then on top of that was trätex and so on. Now I removed everything down to bare wood. To install the electricity, I used a circular saw at a certain depth, which was quite quick and smooth. Then at the electrical boxes, you need to chisel out a bit extra with a chisel. Then everything was covered with drywall.
Our floor creaks a bit too, but I haven't bothered with it. I considered whether I could screw in some extra screws into the tongue and groove, but it never happened.
Renovate carefully, after all, it's an old house you have and not a newly built one...
Our floor creaks a bit too, but I haven't bothered with it. I considered whether I could screw in some extra screws into the tongue and groove, but it never happened.
Renovate carefully, after all, it's an old house you have and not a newly built one...
My outer walls are vertical rough timbers, so they are probably load-bearing. Could I perhaps use a circular saw there? Do I need to reinforce after such a procedure?
The inner walls are 2 cm horizontal with a 10 cm gap to the next wall. Here, I should probably try my idea and attempt to thread pipes/hoses behind the planks.
Is there a minimum depth that conduit pipes must lie?
The inner walls are 2 cm horizontal with a 10 cm gap to the next wall. Here, I should probably try my idea and attempt to thread pipes/hoses behind the planks.
Is there a minimum depth that conduit pipes must lie?
The Tretex has already been removed, and I'm going to plaster directly onto the thick planks. The reason is purely aesthetic. Using Tretex and plaster around windows and doors would have built up too much.
Now that I've taken down the Tretex, I notice the insulation in the exterior walls isn't the best. And since it's solid planks with tongue and groove that are load-bearing, I'm wondering how to go about insulating the exterior walls. I can't take down the planks and insulate because then the wind will collapse.
Suggestions?
Now that I've taken down the Tretex, I notice the insulation in the exterior walls isn't the best. And since it's solid planks with tongue and groove that are load-bearing, I'm wondering how to go about insulating the exterior walls. I can't take down the planks and insulate because then the wind will collapse.
Suggestions?
In another part of our house (which I haven't renovated myself), the previous owner built with 45x45 and insulated. Additionally, he took the opportunity to run the electricity. But it requires a bit of extra work around all the windows, etc. Furthermore, old houses should be insulated with some caution.
Regarding the vp-pipes, mine are directly under the plasterboard. I don't think there's any minimum depth they have to be at.
Regarding the vp-pipes, mine are directly under the plasterboard. I don't think there's any minimum depth they have to be at.
Click here to reply