Building Materials and Construction Technology
Larsa: If the wall runs across the trusses, it may be load-bearing; if it runs in the same direction as the trusses, it is probably not load-bearing. If it is load-bearing, you need to place a beam under the roof to transfer the load.
tiggre: Used Gypsum and had it in a few rooms in the basement for over 4 years now with good results (painted with Latex 7 paint directly as well) However, drained/insulated externally before.
torrum: Thank you for your answers. I ended up putting oil-tempered hardboard 4.8 mm thick in large sheets from underneath. It went quickly and became perfectly tight. I used battens from underneath with 1*2 inch cc40 and screwed with assembly screws with large heads. Since I have rows of noggings and cc 30 on the floor joists in the bathroom and laundry room, I used large whole sheets from underneath.
GoForIt: Hello, and welcome.. That idea should work perfectly well. The choice of materials is hard to comment on without knowing more about the room it will be installed in. A good idea might be to try to make it blend in with the other details. I would probably choose around 90 cm in height.
TorOdd: I don't know if this is the right forum, but I am looking for information about building with cross-laminated timber, i.e., simply described as "timber without joints". There seem to be different terms like thermowood, glulam, etc. There is apparently a company up north that builds multi-story buildings, but I haven't found anyone who builds single-family homes. If anyone would like to share
tuleredos: How should the ink look that you should have under horizontal paneling? And how should it be installed?
BAS: In addition to the advice you've received so far, I can add that Excel is excellent for these calculations. I have used Excel for significantly more complicated hållf. calculations than a lying HE-beam. You probably have a formula collection at home, if not, they are in Tefyma or similar formula collections.
krukan: I ordered cornices (cove moldings) and baseboards from listspecialisten. I feel like I received excellent service from them; for example, I also wanted casings for windows and doors, but since they didn't have those dimensions pre-cut, they recommended I buy them locally since it was a standard size. Otherwise, it would have taken an extra week. I think that's great service! The only issue I had
nissan70: Thank you for the response. A few days ago, I also got in touch with a kakelugns renoverare through acquaintances who mentioned the same things. He specifically mentioned that one should not use anything other than regular clay, as heat-resistant clay often becomes too hard and cracks more. This has probably been used before. I will receive the clay next week.
Larsa: I forgot to mention that in my house, at some point around 1950, they placed newspapers and magazines under a linoleum floor to even it out. Really fun to see how Veckorevyn etc. looked at that time. I also found a couple of newspapers from 1907 that were used as insulation (the house was built in 1907).
Dzollero: I channeled a drain pipe into the wall :D Got everything through that pipe :D
imported_Byggaren: A 120 mm wide board can withstand more pressure in that direction without buckling over a 3-meter length than it can in the 45 mm direction. In general, you can use P = A x (permissible stress) as a guideline for how much it can withstand without considering buckling in either direction, especially not in the 45 mm direction. (P is the load and A is the area.) If you nail together 2 pieces of
Nadiosch: Not exactly an answer to your question, but there are elevation baskets available at most places to buy and place under the washing machine. Under the machine, you then get a basket like "elfaback"... http://www.onoff.com/online/se/inet.nsf/vProd/51448?opendocument&markID=80-40-30
JanneL: Understand the problem with the ceiling. I have experienced this myself in an HSB apartment. I painted the ceiling, but it started cracking and falling down, so I had to scrape the mess off. According to the paint dealer, it was because the ceiling was sand-textured. I've searched online for this but haven't found any information. In the apartment I'm working on now, I've sanded off the wallpaper
Bruiser: That's exactly what I did a couple of weeks ago, I still have housefix on the retina. But it turns out well.
ktm250: Fredrik: Take the number of meters around the slab divided by 0.6, and you'll get the number of stones needed. Then divide that by 8.3 to find out how many m² it actually is, and then choose your masonry method. ssm stands for stötfogsfri strängmurning and ffm for fullfogsmurning.
marko_b: Thank you gluecifer. As the home tinkerer says, use boards without tongue and groove and leave a gap between the boards for ventilation of the attic, that's how I've done it.
alacs: bygga_bo - you don't need to defend your post - I now fully understand their thinking (as you write) and it all boils down to a problem with communication. Now we have been given a number to a guy who can interpret if we feel that we quickly want an explanation for something, and then similar issues should not arise again.
Gladh: What kind of insulation is it, and what is the panel attached to? Spontaneously, there should be a small air gap behind the panel against some type of protective material for the insulation. But it all depends a bit on what kind of material it is as well... - M
snickarboden: What kind of roof is it? It looks like sheet metal or eternit; if it's eternit, it will cost quite a bit to remove for the extension. It's not pleasant at all to cut into that. The sheet metal work usually costs a lot in such cases, valleys and drainage quickly add up in expenses. Another thing I noticed in the picture is a vent duct that probably needs to be moved, which can take some time. You
blackadder: would have been interesting to know how you managed to get such precise measurements over such a long distance. Laser?
Fabian-Bom: Often there is a beam over the window, lecabalkar at lecablock houses. Supports or similar to fix the bricks.under the time the mortar sets A regular bricklayer should be able to fix it.
fresve: How many anchor screws should I use in each joist hanger? There are about 7 holes on each side against the support beam, and 5 against the ceiling joist. The five against the ceiling joist are the same on both sides, so I assume it's unwise to screw them against each other. I have currently installed 3*2 against the support beam, and 2*2 against the joist. Are more needed?
surfboy: Hello everyone, I need some tips on how to proceed. The situation is as follows. I'm planning to build an aquarium into the wall so that it's visible from both the kitchen and the living room. The tank itself will be 160'35'30. My question is as follows: The wall is made of lightweight concrete, and the hole I'm going to make is relatively wide, so my plan is to insert an I-beam at the top. What
JBa: Example http://www.tibromobelindustri.com/innervagg.htm http://www.byggahus.se/forum/inredning/52645-flyttbara-innervaeggar.html
addee: Sure, but I'm probably not allowed to run an FTX through plastered/cast channels? Dust/deposits are likely to create decent problems for the filters in FTX...
synpunkter: I am going to build a canopy measuring approximately 4 x 3 meters. The roof will be made of rough-sawn boards and standing seam metal roofing, which is relatively "light." I need to attach a load-bearing beam (like a 45 x 145 beam) about 4 meters long to the house wall, approximately 3 meters up from the ground. I will then attach the roof rafters to this beam. The problem is that the house wall
freddeh: here I found a lot of useful information about glulam beams and their sizing: http://www.optimera.se/wps/wcm/connect/optimerasverige/optimerasverige/business/byggabo/tips_och_rad/div_broschyrer_allmant maybe it can help you along the way.
opettersson: How do you frame a sleeping alcove with a sloped ceiling? I'm also planning to build in the bed (like a fixed base). I have cut open the wall and saved the wall above and below. Can you use MDF instead of gypsum on the walls as well? Should you insulate (there is an "outer closet" behind)? Many questions...