Building Materials and Construction Technology
Jensa1: I have rented a drywall lift, and I'm also considering renting one of those screwdrivers for drywall. I have a screwdriver myself, but I think it goes faster with one of those where the screws come on a strip and there's a screw stop on them!
Sampa: How do you determine if it was eternit panels and not just plaster?
snickar_lasse: Hello! Mount, for example, 45x145 kortlingar for the sink. Place the kortlingar on the sill and about one meter up, fasten the piece with drywall screws. Wall-mounted toilets require proper gear.
tob_ekl: okay, I will try with plastic. there's parquet on the floor, so water won't work. the wife has just washed the white curtains.
toma25: Wooden frame to attach to, that sounds like a good plan. Are there metal corners that don't require special tools? no risk of warping with so little framing, there won't be a complete structure to stabilize.
abbe_: [citat] Dismantle the door lining and ceiling trim and tear away the drywall. Attach particle board or something that holds (possibly also an extra stud/blocking). Spackle+wallpaper and reinstall the trim/ceiling molding... /Abbe_
Larsa: There are larger ones, but I think they're only 1.80 wide. I guess you can order from a "real" hardware store :)
Larsa: Regarding the original question. A wall stud is cut to 2500mm and a construction stud is the same dimension in various lengths. As for "Råplan V" I believe that V=quality 5, which is a slightly lower quality.
templar: I will redo the entire roof plus some tongue and groove boards and fascia boards, new gutters with downpipes. It's high up to the fascia board, 6.5 meters, hipped roof, need to work "around the corners". So it will be difficult not to have scaffolding around the whole thing. That's probably a hit I'll have to take. //Simon
Linus_E: those with the formply use them in the new constructions I've been to.. 22mm was it about and then nails like hell then they make 120 holes for drainage (of course where we want spotlights)
osueco: Anyone know of any hardware store in Poland that has a website where you can see prices so that you can plan your purchases?
andrefredriksson: Hello, I would like to build a half-wall to divide my living room in the apartment; it's a rental, so I don't want to make holes in the walls/floor. Is it possible to build a stable freestanding half-wall? What material should be used? Minimum width? If it's not possible, how stable will it be if the half-wall is only attached on one side and not secured in any way at the other end? I plan for it
marmander: [citat] It was an old "bonnagjuten" slab, cleaned it with caustic soda and water. Sprayed water just before the truck came. The concrete didn’t spread as well as I thought, worked hard with my homemade screed, got the 6 cubic meters out reasonably well (doing it all by myself, should have been two people with screeds and one measuring with a laser). There were a couple of spots that were lower
danielr112: Since it's supposed to be for a workshop, the price/functionality is what primarily matters. Of course, I don't want pink walls. But metal works perfectly fine if that makes it easier for me.
anaitis: Maybe a bit too much deflection. A common limit value used is L/400. For your beam, that corresponds to 1.2 cm. (I have not checked your loads!)
bergstrollet: Okay, thanks for the tips. I suspected it would be easier to assemble them lying on the ground. I noticed that I wrote 145*170... a little wrong. It is actually 145*120 (28 mm).
valjn: I have a 15m2 basement. It's located partly within the house so I only have one outer wall. The walls can get a bit damp in the summer (high humidity = condensation). There are two ventilation holes. I wasn't planning on using the basement for anything, just existing. My question is, what is safe to paint the walls with? I think they were lime-washed once a long time ago. Maybe something like
Västerhaninge 17: Currently building with Trivselhus. Their solution was to use about 20 pieces of 1 mm galvanized/angled plates that were nailed into the concrete, and when the wall was in place, 2 screws/plate were fastened to the edge of the sill.:o Apparently, no heavy-duty fittings are needed to keep the house in place.
hempa111: I was talking about your first post where you mentioned a casting between the beams, the one you now refer to is a spackling; I separate the concepts to avoid misunderstandings. And regarding what Maxit said, you must putty so you have a minimum 15mm cover on the hose, that is correct. Furthermore, I fully understand that you want to minimize the building height because you don't want a step into
Beape: OK, thanks for the tip. I will definitely prime with oil-based paint if it can reduce the risk of blistering :-)
mariaria: Thanks for all the tips, I think I'll choose husfix because I have it at home!
hdm: foxmulder, you who live in the Stockholm area might want to go to the Älvsjö fair on October 9-12, Foamsystem will be there then, maybe you can get some more info. I have looked at FoamSystem myself and think the concept seems interesting.
Melie: Please, we are finding it so difficult to find a railing at a reasonable price for our future balcony-terrace, which is approximately 35 square meters. There must be more reasonable prices than several thousand SEK per linear meter?! The house is plastered in a functional style, and we are still open to how the railing should look. But initially, we had thought of some form of stainless steel,
johan124: Hello. Thank you for trying to help me. We will have a wet room mat on the floor. The bathroom is about 2.6*3.5m and the span is 3.5m, right? The bathtub will not be in the middle of the span but on one edge. Two of the feet on the bathtub will be 2cm outside the wall in the basement. Messy answer maybe, but thanks again for the answers. Best regards, Johan
Johan Gunverth: [citat] That's what I'm asking myself too. I got some opinions that it should be done, but at the same time, I see stairs that grandpa made in the 50s that are still intact and nice. He only used regular home-mixed concrete. A bit "richer" though, as he says. That should mean a somewhat larger proportion of cement.
Gladh: [citat] Why is that, if the moisture barrier is as good as the plastic, then it's like moving the plastic one step in the construction, the problem will be to seal between the plastic and the moisture barrier to make it as one unit. But it should be possible to solve. Turn it around instead, would you put double plastic layers in the hallway, one just under the drywall, and one 45/70 mm into the
hempa111: Post pictures from the outside so they can be checked, preferably detailed photos of the plåtarna.
hempa111: It should be considered that it is now completely forbidden to build in pressure-treated wood into the structure, so I would probably have removed it as well.
hempa111: For the recessed lights, you probably just attach pots that are fastened to the 28x70 lumber, or were you planning to build drywall boxes for the recessed lights?