Building Materials and Construction Technology
Carolin: I have polished a chimney, kind of like sweeping. I wonder if it's possible to apply a surface treatment on it so that the plaster is visible. Oil, varnish, or what can be used?
bygganders: Just a thought. EVERYTHING near a fan gets greasy. The edge of a plasterboard absorbs moisture. Even if you put some kind of trim over it, I would, for example, paint the edge first. Otherwise, the board might dissolve... I don't know if this is right but it just struck me... Anders
Renato: No one seems to be interested, There's a lot for free online. Anyway, Platonmatta on the floor, then metal studs on the wall. The main thing is that live feed should not have direct contact with either the floor or the outer wall. Visit the hardware store's internet pages and download a free brochure ...
Ilam: No, no, no!, I must protest! A torpargrund should be as dry as possible, which is often difficult due to ground moisture, etc. The air that is stagnant in the foundation is heated somewhat by heat leakage from the house, preferably a chimney base. Warmer air can contain a higher proportion of moisture than cold air before the moisture condenses on wood, etc. (the concept of relative humidity RH).
Ilam: Hello! I have a wall built with mexitegel from the 60s behind the stove. The wall is wider than the chimney and is, according to assessment, only there for "decorative" purposes. The chimney and wall are (of course) in the middle of the house, so there are no temperature/humidity differences behind/in front of the wall. The wall is very rough in structure, with relatively deep joints and a very
smidifix: would also have applied directly without plaster, it's said that plaster dampens the heat a bit!!???
Apprentice: A basement of 20sqm could also be an option. Or furnishing the garage.
SJW: What should be placed under the wet room board? Maybe you would have to tear off the particle board anyway, which is a bit of a shame. But perhaps you could nail 22mm or preferably 27mm plank over the whole area to stabilize it. Planks like that are usually not too expensive. Otherwise, you might have to nail and screw new 70mm studs to the old ones. But this is somewhat tricky since in some
sccarber: We have now reached the konstruktör, and he said we must use PL400, polyurethane is not approved. So it worked out!
yens: I lowered it about 15 cm with sheet metal studs, and made sure to place the "hat profiles" so that all the joints aligned over one, making it stable. I installed them according to the instructions I received so that the short sides are screwed to a hat profile, while the long sides are only screwed about every 30 cm (I had cc30 between the hat profiles). It turned out stable and good, and after
Mats: Yes. The building permit is required no matter where you place it (possibly with the exception of non-urban planned areas, but the municipality knows that).
ottot: I bought one a few months ago and set it up, at the time there was no information about the quality on the website and customer service didn't know either (but now it states on the website that it is LK30/L40). But when I went there, they were stamped with the correct stamps so I went for it (the ones I bought didn't come from Moelven, but it was another well-known manufacturer that I can't
anaitis: It is the moisture content a material takes on at a given humidity level in the air. Humidity is often stated as relative humidity at a certain temperature, thus also indicating the absolute humidity (RH is easier to measure!).
anaitis: [citat] If you use slightly larger fractions, you need less sand mixing. It also affects the strength less. It used to be common practice to add so-called sparsten to reduce cement consumption. These were coarser stones that were fit in where possible. Often gray stone.
imported_peter: I have plastered my concrete walls with regular cement-based plaster, it is a bit bumpier to work with and requires a little more practice before you know how to do it than gypsum plaster. But it is not particularly difficult. Check here: http://www.coop.se/upload/modul/coopse/vh-utomhus/putsa-vaggar.pdf and here you can check more information regarding gypsum plaster:
Bnicke: Thanks for the feedback! I can endure the dust for an hour or two, with a mask and safety goggles. I was afraid I would have to grind for several hours with a 10-kilo machine above my head, phew. "raster", what is that? I have to work ;) The room is now concrete-clean, finishes on walls and floors will be put in place later. Doorways will be sealed and taped over. So I'm not afraid of getting it
andersmc: Plywood it certainly is not, but perhaps masonite. Have you examined what is behind the masonite? There might already be a wall of råspont there. It is not uncommon in older houses.
Nene: The reasons I would prefer to avoid self-leveling compound are: 1. The existing floor is even and nice 2. I have never worked with self-leveling compound (okay, I could outsource the job) 3. Can we be sure that self-leveling compound is an okay material today, with no risk of harmful emissions? I'm considering Platon Yellow Line (plastic mat with studs, builds up 3 mm) as a moisture barrier
Lymmeln: I have a feeling that it also depends a bit on the length if it's too narrow, but a kitchen fan usually has a diameter of 160mm, and supposedly, your chimney pipe is 120mm outside. You can knock a hole in the chimney flue where you want the pipe to go out, loosen the pipe at the top and bottom, pull up the pipe a bit, cut the pipe in the hole, and pull it out through the knocked-out hole and tidy
jawen: Exactly!. But I wouldn't say sloppier, with tiles you can just use a little less water in the mortar than what's recommended as "max" to get shorter drying time & less shrinkage. Then you can order class A or B floors, i.e., max +-2mm/2m or +-3mm/2m Jawen
erber: Yeah....damn....Bulwalk....that's how it is!! Then I have to double up with 2x2". Luckily, that kind of timber is cheap. I'm so annoyed when I don't think one step ahead. Otherwise, it would have come to light the hard way. But it's better to learn from others' experiences and knowledge. I should be able to get an additional insulated wall now. Now it's just the electricity left. And the
lajsiiwan: You should be able to smear some white grout over it and paint on it. Don't forget that the grout should preferably be paintable :) Edit: Strike that, I read too poorly. It should be possible to just paint over if it's so thin that even grout doesn't go in.
ronolo: Completing the thread with a response from the constructor for information to those of you in a similar situation as ours. The trusses are entirely self-supporting, made of 220*45 K24, even without a collar tie. This applies even, to my surprise, to the larger trusses with a 7.5m base internally. We also received a solution for how to support the four valley gutters and the trusses that rest on
v-g: This is how I did it myself. The girl, however, held up the beam on one side when I lifted the whole thing there.
RFL: Need help with how to construct the wall in order to plaster the surface. I will replace patio doors with a regular exterior door and will have an edge around it that we plan to plaster (about 100 mm wide on each side and about 300 mm high above the new door). The wall will be built with 45x120. How should the construction look to be able to apply plaster and how thick should the plaster be?
gluecifer: If you want to avoid condensation in a crawl space, it should be ventilated a lot = many vents so that the humidity almost matches the outside? Alternatively, you could have a chimney that goes down to the foundation and burn as much as they did at the beginning of the century to keep the condensation away. Or you can seal all the vents and install a dehumidifier, as there may be groundwater
banninge: Hello! I’ve embarked on a slightly larger project, which naturally presents new challenges. Problems are meant to be solved, and with a bit of luck, I might find some worthwhile nuggets in byggahus.se's big cake... I am going to convert a three-family house into a single-family home, which means some walls have to be removed, a new staircase has to be built, and much more. The house was built
freddeh: The best thing is if you can get hold of the drawings and the technical description from when the house was built, as it shows most things. If you don't have them, they should be available with the municipality and can be ordered from there.
ktm250: Thixotropic means that you can basically roll a ball of the product. You simply apply it there. You buy a ready-made product and mix it with water. http://www.maxit.se/922/pagetype/1/url/12495/section/116/ The only way for you to make the mortar you have work would be if you could build a tight mold and then apply the mortar from above. Unfortunately, few professionals work in the hardware store,