I am going to lower my plaster ceiling to accommodate VP pipes and boxes. It is about 20 square meters. I am lowering it only 2.5 cm and using secondary battens (metal studs) that I screw directly through the old plaster and into the studs. Where the spotlights will be, I use boxes and open up the old ceiling only where I need the boxes. I will have a new completely flat plaster ceiling.
What size of plasterboard should I use? The larger I use, the less I will have to spackle, right? But I'm considering 13mm 90x240, what do you think about that? Can I use regular wall plasterboard from Byggmax or do you have any other suggestions?
Can I use cc60 or do I need to use cc30?
Which direction should I attach the boards to the studs?
How should I spackle the "gaps" for the best result?
If you have any other tips about lowering a ceiling and what I should keep in mind, I would gladly receive them!!!!
Thank you in advance
What size of plasterboard should I use? The larger I use, the less I will have to spackle, right? But I'm considering 13mm 90x240, what do you think about that? Can I use regular wall plasterboard from Byggmax or do you have any other suggestions?
Can I use cc60 or do I need to use cc30?
Which direction should I attach the boards to the studs?
How should I spackle the "gaps" for the best result?
If you have any other tips about lowering a ceiling and what I should keep in mind, I would gladly receive them!!!!
Thank you in advance
Last edited by a moderator:
If you're using 90-wide boards, then you should have cc45. Gypsum itself doesn't move, but studs, whether metal or wood, can move.
If you're using metal studs, perhaps it might be possible to allow the screws to move within the stud and "fuse" the gypsum properly with glued strips at the joints which are then puttied. Use a wide spatula when putting to almost avoid sanding.
Use boards that are recessed at the edges. I believe there are now boards with recesses even at the short ends.
Good luck!
If you're using metal studs, perhaps it might be possible to allow the screws to move within the stud and "fuse" the gypsum properly with glued strips at the joints which are then puttied. Use a wide spatula when putting to almost avoid sanding.
Use boards that are recessed at the edges. I believe there are now boards with recesses even at the short ends.
Good luck!
CC 30 should be the maximum spacing for the boards to prevent buckling according to previous threads here on the forum. 240X90 is no problem otherwise, I used 250X120 when I did the ceiling in the shed. A panel lift helps incredibly, so rent one 
Doesn't that depend on which way you're going to place them? If you place them across the direction of the studs, it should work with cc60 or cc30 since the plasterboard is 240 long, or am I completely off trackLUDDET said:
Do you know where I can find plasterboards that are recessed at the edges?
I live in Gothenburg
mats_o
It feels best to take them as large as possible to make it as smooth as possible. Do you know if there are such large ones with recessed edges?
I have a large kitchen island in the middle, so it's unfortunately a bit difficult with the lift, but it could still work, will have to check on that. Do you know where they can be rented and how much it costs? I live in Gothenburg.
Do you mean that there are others here on the forum who have done it with cc60 where the ceiling has become wavy?
Thanks in advance
My understanding is that you must first place studs that allow you to fix the long sides, meaning a stud every 90 cm. The next question is: Can you have 90 cm unstudded? The answer is no if you want a smooth ceiling. So it becomes 45 cm.
The short sides must naturally be attached to studs at every 240 cm with a noggin between the outer and middle studs. This setup should result in fewer studs, fewer screws, and therefore fewer spackling points.
The overwhelming problem, however, is: How to avoid the joints from cracking?
cc 60 is a standard dimension that matches well with the normal size of plasterboards 60 x 120 cm.
A panel lift is a must, I agree with that.
The short sides must naturally be attached to studs at every 240 cm with a noggin between the outer and middle studs. This setup should result in fewer studs, fewer screws, and therefore fewer spackling points.
The overwhelming problem, however, is: How to avoid the joints from cracking?
cc 60 is a standard dimension that matches well with the normal size of plasterboards 60 x 120 cm.
A panel lift is a must, I agree with that.
I have installed plasterboards on the kitchen ceiling, about 4x6 m. Set the battens at cc40 and then 13mm gypsum boards 90x240 cm "across" with staggered joints (i.e., only the short edges were supported, exactly according to Norgips instructions). Couldn't get hold of any boards with recessed short edges, so I fixed that with a planer. Paper tape + filler in the joints.
It's been up for over a year now, no signs of sagging or cracks. The biggest problem was getting the joints completely smooth; it's challenging with all the light from the ceiling lamps. A board lift is recommended if there are many boards to put up.
It's been up for over a year now, no signs of sagging or cracks. The biggest problem was getting the joints completely smooth; it's challenging with all the light from the ceiling lamps. A board lift is recommended if there are many boards to put up.
It is important to get a proper overlapping in the seams, which means that when you run the putty knife over the seam, you should not feel anything sticking out. I also make sure that the blade of the putty knife does not have the opportunity to sink into the seam during the "final stroke," but I straighten it up almost to a vertical position.
Thanks for the response!
But I'm a bit torn. Should I mount the plasterboards lengthwise (meaning the long side of the board is attached all the way on a stud) or crosswise (where only the short sides run along a stud)????
Pros and cons?
But I'm a bit torn. Should I mount the plasterboards lengthwise (meaning the long side of the board is attached all the way on a stud) or crosswise (where only the short sides run along a stud)????
Pros and cons?
Check out
http://www.norgips.se/montage/innertak
Looking at the PDF it says among other things
"The boards are installed in 1, 2, or more layers. For gypsum boards in 1 layer, cross-mounting should be used if possible."
http://www.norgips.se/montage/innertak
Looking at the PDF it says among other things
"The boards are installed in 1, 2, or more layers. For gypsum boards in 1 layer, cross-mounting should be used if possible."
As I've learned, the ceiling should be framed with 30 cm centers (sparse panel). You place the board in the same direction as the beams. At the short ends, you can advantageously place a small wooden block between each beam (and just screw it in from both boards, no need to attach it to the ceiling).
Bevel the short ends a little with a utility knife so that you get a V to fill with putty. Then it's just a matter of reinforcing the joints with tape or paper strips and spackling. Some people apply tape to the entire ceiling to ensure they don't get any cracks...
The size of the gypsum you use doesn't matter, but larger boards mean less spackling. At the same time, they are heavier and more cumbersome...
Bevel the short ends a little with a utility knife so that you get a V to fill with putty. Then it's just a matter of reinforcing the joints with tape or paper strips and spackling. Some people apply tape to the entire ceiling to ensure they don't get any cracks...
The size of the gypsum you use doesn't matter, but larger boards mean less spackling. At the same time, they are heavier and more cumbersome...
I lowered it about 15 cm with sheet metal studs, and made sure to place the "hat profiles" so that all the joints aligned over one, making it stable. I installed them according to the instructions I received so that the short sides are screwed to a hat profile, while the long sides are only screwed about every 30 cm (I had cc30 between the hat profiles). It turned out stable and good, and after 15 months, it still looks the same as it did from the beginning...