Building Materials and Construction Technology
torrum: maybe not a dumb investment to insulate both floors for example if in the future you choose to only live on the first floor when the children have moved out or when the knees can no longer handle the stairs due to frailty. then you can let the attic be a few degrees colder and thereby save a lot of energy:)
anaitis: [citat] Laskar is what you do when splicing timber lengthwise. The expression you're looking for is "sala på" or "sadla på".
verktygsgurun: They're called Molly bolts or metal expanders, use those, they will hold, but buy the right ones, if you have a simple chipboard i.e. 10-12mm you should buy Molly bolts for 13mm gypsum board.
Jan-L: If you don't want to nail or drill, you can glue instead. PL 600 combined with hot glue usually works. Especially convenient if you have pre-painted moldings, then you don't need to patch any holes afterward.
scenic46: With progressive glasses, it's easy to make mistakes with so-called automatic "manual" leveling instruments because there are two horizontal lines in addition to a pure so-called crosshair. No manufacturer/ retailer has been able to suggest an instrument with a pure crosshair. Alternative: The alternative, though a bit pricier, is a Digital leveling instrument like the Leica Sprinter. (Note: I
jon: Thanks for the tips. I found a great chimney sweep who will answer my questions. Smart tip to get a slightly larger stone slab for the firewood! The floor isn't laid yet, so there doesn't need to be any elevation.
gaia: [citat] As an amateur, you can manage by just using the plastering float :). I plastered half a basement without even trying to throw the plaster on, and it actually looked nice anyway. The most important thing is to dampen the surface so that the plaster doesn't fall off. I used the Skånskan - a steel sheet plastering float - you get a very nice smooth surface :). It's like working with regular
ByggaNytt: You'll do fine without it! The electrician will be pleased (less work) and more insulation (soundproofing) in the walls.
andersmc: Two months! It’s getting stranger and stranger. From your description, it sounded like you had bought a modular house. No need for scaffolding for two months. Even if it were a pure built-on-site house, it doesn’t take that long to erect it and put on the roof. It seems more and more like this is a thing they’re doing. Because surely it’s easy money, to charge an extra 20000 just like
zpecial: Does anyone have experience with habo door tracks? I'm thinking of buying these and using MDF. Will it be too heavy?
brevik: Thank you for the answers! We re-drained in 2005 and added external insulation with Isodrän. I don't think it's kalkbruk. Tiles were previously installed there, and I will be putting up new tiles. I'm deciding between husfix and plaster C.
magnushasselqvist: [citat] Hi Kilroy Where did you get the boxes, I mean those smaller ones that you have several of in both height and width? I want :) Regards Magnus
Avbytaren: [citat] The part of the wall closest to the fireplace will remain, perhaps 1 meter of that wall.
Beppo: Generally, it is said that the barrier should be as close to the warm side as possible and at most 1/3 of the wall's total insulation into the wall. So, in your case, it shouldn't be a problem to frame with a 45 and insulate between before you put up the huntonit. But, as mentioned, it depends on what you have on top.
Melie: 1000 thanks for the response. It feels very good to have these things with us before we get started! I will try to write and tell you when it is started/completed.
Mats: I usually try with polygrip and unscrew them again. Otherwise, the prisoners' favorite tool is recommended, that is, the hacksaw :)
discgolfaren: Have also heard from others that limma should work. So that's probably what I'll do.
alacs: [citat] Yes, we're *leaning* towards doing as you suggest. As mentioned, I'll get a laser level to better see how it varies over the 4 meters we're dealing with. If it's primarily on one side, we might do the correction as you suggest. We'll have a soft joint anyway - it just can't be unreasonably high on parts of the counter.
strb90h: The entire house has been externally drained and insulated with Isodrän and new drainage pipes, geotextile, etc., according to the rules of the art. I also want to gain some ceiling height since it was only about 185 cm from floor to ceiling before I broke up the floor. The room is located in a part of a basement built in 1955, where there are no adjacent rooms except along an inner wall. This
katrinj: Hello We are in the process of setting up a garage in a barn. The space is internally 7.20 * 8.40, and the outer walls are about 40 cm thick. Above this space, there is a loft. The loft floor consists of floor beams (150 * 200) with one meter spacing, which rest on the outer walls and a wooden beam (200*200) located in the ceiling of the space that will become a garage. This beam is currently
martinlarsson72: I have now also applied fiberglass fabric, and hope that it will provide a slightly more durable and nicer surface. It will be interesting to see how everything looks when it is fully painted :-)
fsn: [citat] Maybe?? Is it suitable/possible to use self-leveling compound for 50mm and should it be reinforced in that case?
strb90h: Hello! There are many suggestions on how to apply a waterproofing layer in a basement with incoming ground moisture. One option I've heard is to only waterproof in the shower and about 30 cm outside, as well as along all the angles between the floor, walls, and corners. Then you should leave the rest unsealed to allow for moisture migration. We will be pouring a new floor with underfloor heating,
strb90h: Hello there! Is there anyone who can provide tips on how to calculate the dimension of an HEA beam or equivalent for an indoor extension? The input values are that we are building a punch veranda/dining area measuring 2.5 X 4.5 meters in the middle of the long side of our existing house, which is 12.5 X 7.3 meters on one floor. I would like, if possible, to transfer the load from the roof trusses
Larsa: I see no problem with building on top of tiles. However, there might be some issues with the wooden floor since it needs to be able to move.