Building Materials and Construction Technology
marsupilami: Hello. We are going to build a 1.5-story house with leca stone. The house supplier says they planned for the beam layer to be in wood, but when we talk to masons and Nystrom Cement (supplier of the leca blocks), they say that this is not recommended and that one should use a beam layer in concrete instead. What is recommended? What are the disadvantages of a beam layer in wood in a primarily
marsupilami: Hello kalarne. Thank you so much for the response.
Miles: Kill it... but then there is also less risk of it coming back. But it must be sanitized and dry before you apply it. Go to a well-stocked paint shop and ask about Boracol so they can help you.
Snailman: posting this question here: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/badrum/101128-reglar-foer-badrum-i-nybygge.html
Jagger: I might have to deviate a bit from the other small houses (which are all painted with Falun red paint) and simply paint in "Falun red-like" oil paint. Best regards, Jagger
Larsa: Probably, the plank wall behind the plaster is quite uneven. You could knock off all the plaster and then glue a gypsum board with plaster adhesive to the plank wall (apply plaster adhesive with a notched trowel and press the gypsum board there). However, if the plank wall is even and nice, you can just screw the gypsum board in place.
billy_baver: Check this out! http://www.martinsons.se/Allman/Filer/Hemsida-2007/Trabroar/martinsons_skogsbroar.pdf http://www.andcon.se/
amatörsmurf: Hi! I have Lumi sliding doors and I bought ready-made side panels in the same color as the doors. In that room, I have a ceiling height of 2.40, and I remember cutting off quite a bit from the panels. I attached them with brackets at the top and bottom. Check where you bought your sliding doors, they probably have panels too. Good luck!
Bastefallarn: I have a 3.9m span and 45x220 cc600 with noggins in the middle and screwed and glued floor chipboard, it is designed by a structural engineer, he said that the dimension can handle about a 4.2m span. There doesn't seem to be any flex in the floor anyway. It becomes cheaper with fewer joists and less work than 45 x 195 cc300.
oskis 123: [citat] I had similar damage in my basement. I hadn't tried plastering before, but took it on anyway. First, knock down all the old plaster so the brickwork is visible. Then I got Plastering Mortar C and got started. Messy but fun!
Timba2: Thank you Peter! I’ll check out the tips! Best regards, Timba
Danne_83: Currently working on drawing a sketch of a slab-on-ground foundation where the exterior wall will be made of brick. My current sketch looks like this: * Brick wall attached to the wall with wall ties. * Air gap * Insulation about 45mm thick attached with spacers * Wood outer wall 145mm thick with insulation * Vapor barrier * Horizontal studs 45*45 with insulation * Gypsum 13mm Now to my question.
WanjaTilde: Hello smart members! Perhaps you have some intelligent tips on how I should proceed when building a new entrance... I'm thinking of an extension, like a small porch, diagonally - see the picture, but how on earth do you deal with the roof in that case...? The gutter runs right through the middle of everything... I am deeply grateful for ideas. ::confused:
klaskarlsson: [citat] Planlimming looks like what I mean, yes :) Good choice: Stainless steel or some other moisture-resistant material (like stone) is really best—but not always the most beautiful. We probably won't use wood next time. And due to the price, it will probably be laminate—not stone. Or carbon fiber or beton, which I have some thoughts about in any case... /K
anaitis: Glue a piece of board behind (above), then putty. If you think it's too much to putty, you can cut a piece of board that's slightly smaller than the hole and glue it to the back piece. That way, you save on the amount of putty.
anaitis: [citat] You should definitely cover the wooden wall with plasterboard. For the concrete wall, it's probably easiest to repair with plaster if it's just the holes that need fixing. If the wall is a total wreck, i.e., needs to be torn down, you can choose between plastering with mesh reinforcement (then the plaster will stick securely) or also installing plasterboard there (just consider how you
valjn: Just let the studs press between the ceiling and the floor. Attach with angles to the wall and screws to the ceiling. Place underlay paper between the studs and the floor so it can move. Is it a good solution? (I have to screw the interior wall into the floor)
_bystrom_: :) No, you're absolutely right. But you know... you have to ask the forum first! I know the construction works as a whole, as I have seen some both similar and almost exactly the same projects. Spontaneously, a finished "roof block" from the concrete manufacturer feels like the safest solution. Probably the most expensive, but fairly problem-free. Theoretically at least...
andersmc: As a curiosity, it can be mentioned that the idea of an inch always being the same size is a relatively recent invention. It was actually a Swede, C.E. Johansson (the one with the gauge blocks), who established that an inch=25.4mm.
Watchmen: Is there 4mm formplywood? 6mm works perfectly for round shapes otherwise
Tommyboy: See here http://www.onoff.com/online/se/inet.nsf/vProd/51448?opendocument&markID=80-40-30
Immobil: I painted the whole lot myself a few years ago and it turned out well. Vacuum thoroughly before and it should work.
Farzan: About the crown molding: I installed crown moldings (a rather substantial cove molding) in a room with a fairly uneven ceiling and didn't find it too difficult to press the molding up so that it lay quite tight against it. They are usually not THAT stiff. In the worst places, I had to screw the molding, but still... Then latex caulk between the molding and the ceiling.
Totte_S: [citat] That's what I focused on, but the floor layer advised against it if you don't level the floor and also have fold-ups on the edges, which becomes difficult with a mat if you don't have walls on the sides to fold up against, otherwise, the water can escape that way. I would really like to avoid ugly expensive plastic trays, but that's probably going to be the solution for me anyway.
erber: I'm going crazy over this. :confused: The house I'm renovating was built in 1968 and in the basement, the walls are plastered with lime mortar. It's built on being quite porous, dusting like crazy and has that gray, white, beige color. My question now is - can you or can you NOT put tiles on this material LIME MORTAR SERPO 148? Is there anyone who knows? Some say it's perfectly fine, others say
Mats: Is there sand in the Sahara? :) Yes, there are a number of questions from before. The question is really what you should have outside of the plaster, it's clearly easiest to let that guide.