Building Materials and Construction Technology
Träig snickare: No, not right now. But check out a garden store. It should be stretchable. Pull it without it breaking. Test pull it with both hands, it should not get bigger.
nihtila: Hello! We are about to start furnishing the attic and have some considerations regarding the gables. Currently, the wall is as thick as the windows, so we will "saddle on" with 120+45 (=the plastic between 120 and 45, 120 horizontally and 45 standing). Should we align with the studs on the lower floor, as they will now only "hang against" the existing framework/outer wall? There is no sill or
kimpo: It won't work... you need to have a kloss! Or a lot of latexfog...
Herr Anders: [citat] After once buying an Ikea piece of furniture whose formaldehyde dose was below current limit values and yet caused headaches in a sensitive family member (the furniture had to be given away to those in greater need), I am a bit cautious with particle products in general. It would be silly to have to remove all the walls an extra time just because you installed the wrong type of panels.
Donwoody: works well with wood too, just put some roofing felt between the stud and the concrete. (cheaper than metal studs) if you have moisture problems in the house I would probably go with metal in that case (safer in a damp environment)
ktm250: Anyway, the bricks will remain either visible or plastered. The choice is yours. Lime mortar is manufactured by, for example, maxit, finja, sto, and combimix. Just check their websites for retailers.
ktm250: There are fillers designed to be left open or painted. It doesn't work with just any kind.
w1shmast3r: I actually don't know that. I guess I'll have to look it up a little more carefully.
Styx: Doesn't matter, however, it's good if you offset the seams OSB/gypsum, then it becomes strong as liquor (as they say in Roomservice) ;)
MagnusRö: I am considering the best way to terminate a vapor barrier against a plastered brick wall. The plastic comes from the slanted ceiling and should be terminated on the side against the brick wall and also against the raised brick wall as the image below shows. How would you insulate the raised brick wall? The insulation in the slanted ceiling will go all the way down, and the question is whether I
MagnusRö: I will build on my roof truss with a 45x145 to make space for more insulation and proper ventilation gap. This rule will overlap by about 50mm and I'm wondering if there are recommendations regarding the distance and size of nails. The rule will mainly serve as an addition for the insulation, but if the truss can get a little extra support in the process, that's not a bad thing. If there are also
V8dc: Birch plywood has the property of absorbing plastic well. Formply is the opposite, you'll have difficulty getting the plastic to adhere. We replaced the transom and engine beams on my previous boat. At the drive, 3 layers of 12mm fiberglassed birch plywood. It was an inboard with 415hp, and the transom is still holding as far as I know. Feel free to ask if there's anything. Good luck, regards V8dc
nattugglan11: By the way, I guess there are 2 ways to light, either "general lighting" or when you want to illuminate an object like a painting. Spotlights have different light spreads, it's the lamp itself that decides this, so you can tinker with that, but you also have to think about where the lamp itself should be placed on the ceiling. I don't want general lighting but want to illuminate paintings on the
Linus_E: regardless of whether it is gable or lengthwise, the vertical ones are guaranteed to carry the top. if the one above the window can be removed is difficult to say without seeing how it is fastened, which tells a lot about its role in the construction. but email complete pictures to me. linus@linuse.se
ktm250: You don't have to have kalk. If you want a more workable mortar for activities like plastering and want to mix it yourself, you simply choose standard cement and kalk and mix a KC. Masonry cement is mixed only with sand and has no additives that replace kalk. It's also important to keep in mind that it's always the base material that determines the strength of the mortar. The strongest is not
malmborg: we went and ordered at the hyvleri a bit far from Dalarna though. went and picked up the last on Monday on the wall it was horizontal planed 4" 6" and 8" with just one tongue. For ceiling paneling, it was 6" fine-sawn with just a tongue. there is surely some hyvleri that can help you. I have seen and tongue and grooved with a small gap between and black or white fiber cloth behind. -quite nice
titanium: Difficult to know how you got the moisture in the lumber. Before or after assembly. The most important thing, however, is the ventilation of the storage. Stagnant humid air, which is occasionally heated by the sun on the paper, tends to condense on the inside of the roof when it gets cold and thereby increases the moisture content in the lumber. Tip: Install vents high up at the ridge.
Saxpy: [citat] With a ceiling height of 2.30, it'll be tough but it's probably just a matter of digging out a couple of meters and making a real smörjgrop instead... :-)
Immobil: Cc 30 is the right one, and that way you don't have to redo it.
Mäster: Now it's better if my domestic forest gets a higher price, than for something to be imported...:)
aivo: You must have a subfloor of 22 mm chipboard for the floor you have in mind. If you're going with solid flooring, you need at least 25 mm thickness.
morsan: Googled a bit and found Timmerpanel, one with prices, Larssonhus. There are probably more if you search for timmerpanel :)
spocks_beard: Funny, I have made a wardrobe door from regular MDF which is covered with paneling. The paneling was attached with a little glue and brads, then it is painted with white paint. Nothing warping there, 3 hinges and 1 magnetic catch. http://www.nybleus.se/hus/gallery/images/badrumnedre/window.php?192 J
plazmaboy: Hehe... Good answer. And you're actually right. I'll probably buy some masonite and make a nice frame for...
Mats: Add double layers of, for example, marine plywood or truckbed plywood and glue-screw the layers, and it should be stable and good for tiles. The tip would probably be to place the bumpy side outward to get a good grip for the fix.
snarrarp: But GzO I do think one should be concerned about toxic fumes during a fire. The fire, smoke, and toxic fumes are three things that each can take your life if you're unlucky, and both the smoke and fumes can prevent you from getting out of the house in time.
StaffanE: I have been tasked by my radon mitigation expert to plaster the walls of the root cellar (located directly under the kitchen) as well as embed three pipes in the walls that face the underside of the house to use a fan to extract soil radon. The walls consist of stones that have been mortared in place from floor to ceiling. The floor is cast. The temperature ranges from +5°C in winter to 12-14°C