Building Materials and Construction Technology
marcarlsson: Hello, I am a new owner of a 1920s villa, and one of my first projects was to tear out a homemade closet that was permanently attached to the wall and ceiling. The closet was fastened with studs to the ceiling and walls, and when they were removed from the ceiling, some of the ceiling came down with it, see the pictures. After reading a bit here on the forum, I have understood that this type of
Bödde: Aha! Great tips!!! I have a bit left of renovation and new construction, so this will save time in the future! Thanks!
Linus_E: would also say that thing with the mulitmastern. I think I remember seeing something like it as a copy for a 500 somewhere. but can't find it now :/ but it's worth its weight in gold (Y)
Kiranos: Hi, I've got the studs up now, I used 8mm nail plugs for the base plate/top plate, and for the sides, I screwed diagonally down into the nearby wall's base plate and up into the top plate. I also removed plasterboard and installed diagonal studs in the nearby wall so I could screw 70mm wood screws from the side studs into the nearby wall. The sides are now attached in three places on the nearby
Bartek: Planning to build a new manure slab on top of an old, cracked, and uneven one. I intend to set form blocks in a U shape (viewed from above) and cast a whole slab inside. The problem is that the old slab has slopes in all directions. Therefore, I can't start building with form blocks before leveling the surface. Removing the old manure slab is not an option as it is also used for the tractor and
Mary K: Forgot to write what the letters mean A= diagonal wall that doesn't exist in our house, but in the original model. B= Wall we are unsure if it is load-bearing or not. C= Wall that will be demolished together with B D= Truss
goahead1978: No, you can't see the plaster from the outside, but my aim is to seal all joints and connections to avoid drafts... So it's a couple of millimeters here and there. I'm planning to use acrylic sealant which is vapor-permeable and elastic. Even if I have it inside in the warmth, the surface is really cold, and it will have difficulty curing because it takes a few hours. It also takes a while for
goahead1978: Oh yes, 16.3 minus now when I took the evening... felt quite a bit. Also building the frame, although I have the roof ready at least and some walls, so you can escape the worst of the wind...
Träig snickare: Hi. I haven't done it myself, but I've seen others do it. And it's fine to do it the way you were thinking. Luckily, you didn't post your thread under the building maintenance category. Then you would've caught hell for it. Good luck.
ohlgren: Well, I have polished it now and got approval from the sweep before Christmas. It's nice to be able to light a fire. What's a bit unsettling is that you don't know if there's wood next to the chimney in places you can't see, like floor joists and the parts of the chimney that form interior walls. You don't know how careful they were in the '60s when they built the house. The chimney is pressure
kapten_nilsson: Hi! We live in a single-story house from '43. We currently have a veranda, but we want to enclose it since our entrance/hallway is very cramped. We want the veranda to become the "new" entrance. Our veranda is currently about 2 meters wide & 1.5 deep + stairs, with a roof and "fence sides". The new one should obviously be more like "inside" than a traditional veranda, meaning it should be
PX-21: Even with the wall and then (window list in any width) that frames it all....it looks best and 140 cm will make nice "flower shelves" Best regards
imported_Byggaren: [citat] If the net is only one meter wide, you can't have wider frames. If you turn it on 'the other way' (and cut 1.5 m from the length), it will still be one meter wide, and nothing is gained unless you're planning to add extra framing for the joint in that direction. But it can be done. Five meters long doesn't work for 45x95. It's better to nail or screw a 28x95 together with a 28x145 into a
-David-: I took a chance and glued the chipboards edge-to-edge (not tongue-and-groove) No cracks so far! Knock on wood... ;)
Pesco: A chimney from the 1930s, built with lightweight concrete blocks (aerated concrete, with a new flue). Planning to plaster anew on the upper floor. Planning to knock off the existing plaster and tidy up. Need help and tips. The husband wants to install gypsum boards, claiming there will be cracks due to temperature differences (we have a pellet burner). So the surface will look completely dead.
Larsa: Often there is plank above the plaster/wattle mat. You might miss and end up in between, then you need to angle the screw so it hits the wood. Drilling into plaster is no problem, regular concrete drill bit. The plaster can be quite thick and it is possible to attach lighter items to it, but with some load it often goes "thwack" and a "koka" comes off.
Bödde: It's not set to 0, or rather, when I set it to 0 it still cuts with a bit of an angle... I will check the inset screws, as there are such on the bosch too. Thanks for the tips!
twtwtw: Hello, I'm going to install ceiling panels on the attic's sloped ceiling. I'm wondering how to do it in the most efficient way. 1. How do I place the nails so they are not visible? I'm building horizontally and wondering if the tongue that sticks out should face up or down. 2. Where do I attach the nails so they are not visible? Is it in the gap or in the tongue that sticks out? Because I don't
MangoMungo: I have a turn-of-the-century house of a split-level model where the basement wall is made of natural stone of varying sizes about 1 meter thick. However, the house has settled at one wall, and I took the opportunity to look at it from above in the living room after removing the floor and tearing out the floor joists. It turned out that there were cracks on the top of the masonry basement wall. It
Ring: Contact a small kitchen manufacturer, go there with a sandwich cake for the 10 o'clock coffee break, and see if you can buy larger quantities.
petersk: The deflection will be just over twice as large with 2 pcs 56x225. The strength is about 65%. Perhaps a steel beam. I would guess (without having calculated it) that you would manage with a HEA 160.
Yrrol: Something I've had enough of is cold floors. Okay, sure, you can wear slippers but... So I've been toying with the idea of having waterborne underfloor heating in all rooms, but I suspect it would require a lot of energy to keep it running = expensive. So I've wondered if having constant and pleasant heat from the radiators might be enough after all. I'm used to the house I'm taking over never
Styx: [citat] Now I understand what you mean - you agreed with what I said. I interpreted you as suggesting that it shouldn't be called kantbalk.. But now that I read more carefully, I see that you were just clarifying what I wrote.. And I haven't even opened the New Year's drink yet ;)
Eddi Thomason: Thanks for the help! Looks like I can put my asbestos anxiety behind me. I'm not going to tear out or even touch the insulation at all. But unfortunately, I will have to insert some extra support for the floating floor joists, but I'll do that carefully and with gloves on. Then the lid goes on for good :)
joflopp: Read what Jon_h writes in his pinned thread in the bathroom section. http://www.byggahus.se/forum/429859-post2.html
snickarboden: Purely spontaneously, you don't do it at all because in most cases it means creating problems, including making it tight. Search for diffspärr here on the forum and you'll find tons of info on why you shouldn't attempt it. /Kent
mikmal: Hello We lifted the house in 2007 with the help of Åtvidabergs house and roof extensions - worked perfectly. We had already contacted an architect and obtained building permits ourselves, so what Åtvidabergs did was calculate reinforcement beams and construct four modules that were later lifted onto our house. Done in about a week (the framework in place, that is...). That's mainly the big