Building Materials and Construction Technology
GrodanMaja: [citat] Thanks for the link! :-)
toker78: I think it can look pretty nice if I succeed... because it's in the kitchen that I'm going to do it and on one wall I have exposed the brick. It's on the brick wall that most of the kitchen will be mounted. It will be IKEA's Tidaholm (Oak).
Bödde: I am constructing two parallel buildings, which means the final result will be an H-building. The connecting structure is 9 x 3.5 m and 2.30 m in ceiling height. Do you know if there are any standard configurations for the ventilation, or does it entirely depend on the conditions how the ventilation is positioned?
tottobo: I have hinges for a double bed for sale. I no longer need them. I built my own bed cabinet and I might still have the plans. If anyone is interested, feel free to call me at 0733-999148. Thomas:)
danielr112: Yes, they exist k-rauta has porous board...
Theoharis: Thank you mr_bygg, this was exactly what I was looking for. Best regards Theo
Tback: [citat] I'm not putting anything on the wall; the masonite is the back of the wardrobes. ;) IT guy: No boards or anything behind the wardrobes, just studs and insulation. No, the door trim isn't pretty! I can sacrifice that, pre-painted MDF, even spliced right above the door :rolleyes: However, I think 2 cm can make a bit of difference, the space in the room between the wardrobe walls will only
Daniel_N: [citat] Aha, now I get it, I didn't consider that they were arched on the backside.
wintermania: How long can I wait after priming before applying self-leveling compound? A company is coming to level my entire slab next week, and I was planning to prime the evening before, but it's hockey night so no priming will happen that evening :D Can I prime an additional evening earlier, or is it important that the primer is applied as freshly as possible?
Havsutsikt: Don't know what it corresponds to, but I know it's going to be very heavy. Maybe won't be able to get it in manually. Take this into account.
injonil: Mold. That's what happens when boards are lying against each other with moisture that doesn't dry in time. I think you can brush it off and use it without problems. It would probably be best if the boards were painted.
Addicted: hmm so it's a beam that rests on the roof trusses, I assume it mostly provides lateral stability for the trusses. It rests on about 10 trusses.
chris47: Use planed pine 145mm without knots. Available at all hardware stores. Cut all parts and start gluing the top ones first, which should go over the side ones. Then clamp the sides between the top and the countertop. Use regular wood glue or PL400 and place clamps between the sideboards to fix them (2-3 pieces, you can reverse the one-handed clamps so they press outward). Be careful to hammer the
jepperdy: Have the same problem. House built in '52 with "hollow basement exterior walls." In my case, it is poorly applied plaster (about 1-2cm) on top of cinder blocks. In a couple of cases, I have drilled with an 8mm drill bit, inserted PL glue and a 10mm plug. It holds for light loads. For heavier items, I have had to chip away the plaster and replace it with new plaster, and then do it "in the usual
_bystrom_: Acrylic sealant would be suitable, you can paint over it with the same color as you have on the stringers. If not cured, wash it off with water.
cheetah1: Well, both rooms in the "upstairs" so to speak, will be wet rooms, a bathroom and a utility room. In the basement we're going to build, it will probably just be a large storage room. I mean, if you make a "dilitation joint" between the basement wall in the extension and the existing wall, won't both moisture and soil seep in there then? I don't want dandelions growing in the basement of my
betula: I agree with Bror, 18% works, for problems more water is usually needed, usually it comes from rain or ground/slab or so. Wood dries in all directions, both outward and inward. As long as you don't have double vapor barriers, the timber will adjust to the environment.
ekstrjoh: No one has any comments? I know there are several threads addressing this question, but I thought that if this summary of the procedure is accepted, more people might be able to carry out their basement project in a similar way.
freddeh: agree with humulus, try to measure the gamma radiation. I hired a company in Haninge, Stockholm before a purchase this spring, he measured all the interior walls and concrete floors, but the gamma radiation was very low, my house is built with the same material as yours.
jeppeknaster: Considering creating a new stairwell (3200x1000) in a concrete floor and wondering if anyone has experience to share? The floor is about 16cm with a raised wooden floor of 10cm. What is the easiest way to go about it? Chiseling, sawing? I'd rather not use water saws due to moisture concerns and the raised wooden floor, but I've also heard that dry sawing creates a terrible amount of dust.
SnickarNicke: [citat] 5 bar is just right and if you're careful, it turns out really nice. ;) Unlike constructions where moldings are sprayed out of the saw.
kimpo: Screwing is enough.. Use any wood screw that goes about 2 - 3 cm into the wood.
titanium: Is there any kind soul who can help me with the dimensioning of eaves? I want the eaves to be as thin as possible so that the roof doesn't look too heavy and thick. What is the minimum dimension for the protruding roof rafters if you want 300 mm eaves? They are spaced 1200 mm apart and the snow zone is 3. I have chosen 20x120 raw plank for the decking with roofing felt and only an 8-degree pitch
Hopplunda: I'm currently renovating the hallway where I've, among other things, installed paneling on the ceiling. Looking back, I've realized that it would look nice to tear down a wall that has a staircase to the basement behind it, and part of the ceiling paneling ends against that wall. If I now tear down the wall and want to continue with the ceiling paneling, it will result in this year's most awkward
Hus-kvarna: Thank you for the feedback and opinions. Could not find any prices for träullit. I can have a maximum of 5 cm of insulation or similar since the ceiling is already quite low.
Kurtivan: Don't know if I understood correctly, but casings are mounted outside the frame or trim if you have it.
Nene: I am a new owner of a split-level house built in 1960. A radon measurement was done before the purchase, showing borderline values. What I'm trying to figure out now is where the radon is coming from. There is no soil radon in this area. All non-load-bearing interior walls are made of blå lättbetong. Exterior walls and load-bearing interior walls are likely not made of blå lättbetong. When
