I am going to move 2 walls on the upper floor.
I have attached a simple sketch in paint showing how it looks.
All thin lines are existing walls. So it's the two thicker ones I'm going to take down.
The existing ones are maybe 5cm thick and I will replace them with 2"4.
I will put up the new walls before removing the old ones.
But now I wonder, is there any danger in moving these walls? They're hardly load-bearing, right?
Then the ventilation space question. When I have moved these walls, I plan to put panels on the trusses. But then I must have ventilation space, right?
However, I don't have access to the attic above, nor below.
The trusses are only visible in these storage rooms.
How should one create the ventilation space then?
I have attached a simple sketch in paint showing how it looks.
All thin lines are existing walls. So it's the two thicker ones I'm going to take down.
The existing ones are maybe 5cm thick and I will replace them with 2"4.
I will put up the new walls before removing the old ones.
But now I wonder, is there any danger in moving these walls? They're hardly load-bearing, right?
Then the ventilation space question. When I have moved these walls, I plan to put panels on the trusses. But then I must have ventilation space, right?
However, I don't have access to the attic above, nor below.
The trusses are only visible in these storage rooms.
How should one create the ventilation space then?
I'm not quite sure what you mean, but an air gap is usually placed between the rafters (eaves ventilation). For example, you can batten against the roof decking and nail/screw masonite so that the insulation is not touching the roof decking.
There should be a free flow from the eaves to the ridge; if that can't be achieved, there are mold stoppers that are placed under the tiles. Ideally, one in each section.
/Kent
There should be a free flow from the eaves to the ridge; if that can't be achieved, there are mold stoppers that are placed under the tiles. Ideally, one in each section.
/Kent
Do not know if the roofline is the inner or outer roof, but you should at least have 30 cm of insulation between the air gap (3 cm) at the outer roof and the gypsum. All this if you have mineral wool insulation.
Yes, that's what I meant. That I'm putting battens directly against the roof sheathing and nailing masonite there.snickarboden said:
The problem was just that it isn't open towards the "upper" attic or above the break, if you know what I mean?
But then maybe I'm forced to use those mold stoppers?
By the way, do you have any comments on the relocation of the walls also?
have now drilled an 18mm hole where I suspected there was an air gap. It turned out to be polystyrene directly behind that sheet. Then there must be an air gap directly behind the polystyrene against the raw board? Then I don't need another one, right? I can just calmly add more insulation?
A quick response would be greatly appreciated.
A quick response would be greatly appreciated.
Must and must... Hopefully, there is an air gap, but that needs to be checked on site. How is the ventilation resolved above the break?
/Kent
/Kent
Well, it's an open attic. Only insulation in the floor joists and completely open to the ridge. If there wasn't an air gap, it should have molded there a long time ago, right? If you crawl out towards the roof, shouldn't you be able to see the air gap then?
Gable ventilation then? Or is it ventilated at the ridge?
/Kent
/Kent
I actually don't know that. I guess I'll have to look it up a little more carefully.