Hello everyone!
We're planning to use whitewashed tongue and groove wood on the walls in a bedroom.
Now I'm wondering if we need to have any form of paper, plastic, fabric, or similar under these boards? I'm thinking if we need to cover the insulation, NOTE these are just interior walls, so no exterior wall will be clad with boards.
Maybe we shouldn't even use tongue and groove wood, but rather cladding boards?
Does anyone know?
//Robert
We're planning to use whitewashed tongue and groove wood on the walls in a bedroom.
Now I'm wondering if we need to have any form of paper, plastic, fabric, or similar under these boards? I'm thinking if we need to cover the insulation, NOTE these are just interior walls, so no exterior wall will be clad with boards.
Maybe we shouldn't even use tongue and groove wood, but rather cladding boards?
Does anyone know?
//Robert
Hi Robert! If I understand correctly, you have framed a new interior wall with comfort insulation?
In that case, I suggest plywood and then the timber. But if you have the opportunity, you should let the boards lie in the room, carefully and neatly stacked with closely laid spacers (thin strips between each layer of boards), for a pretty long time before you nail them so that they can dry properly.
Stain them before you nail them up, otherwise, you'll get wood-colored gaps when the timber changes! Hope it was of some help. Johan
In that case, I suggest plywood and then the timber. But if you have the opportunity, you should let the boards lie in the room, carefully and neatly stacked with closely laid spacers (thin strips between each layer of boards), for a pretty long time before you nail them so that they can dry properly.
Stain them before you nail them up, otherwise, you'll get wood-colored gaps when the timber changes! Hope it was of some help. Johan
won't they warp if you let them dry indoors?Korp-Johan said:
Yes, they do! They always twist a little bit when they dry, but the more stable and straighter they lie, the less they twist. Try to make sure they have proper (and equal) air gaps so they dry evenly, and Not! in sunlight. That will discolor them.
These are such small dimensions, so the little twist they have can be pressed with a tongue-and-groove knife or a chisel when you're nailing up the boards.
Insert the tongue-and-groove knife into the base and press down, ensuring the tongue is completely down without a gap before you nail down the nail. Then just move along the board and do the same thing. Use a board of the same dimension and groove between the chisel and the one you are going to nail to avoid marks.
I hope I don't seem silly or overly obvious, but I assume others might be reading too, and what's nice about this forum is that some are good and experienced at certain things, and others at others!
Since I'm "pretending to be knowledgeable!" When buying the wood, sort out resin streaks (longitudinal dark stripes in the wood) and knots. It's a pain when you want to glaze and can't use shellac. Streaks and knots can bleed resin forever! (Can be annoying in the bedroom if you get stuck to the wall. He, He)
Final tip; (I promise!) If the wood tends to crack when you nail it: tap the point of the nail with the hammer to make it blunter. That way, it pushes the wood fibers in front of it instead of wedging between them, and the wood rarely cracks.
It will surely turn out great! Johan
These are such small dimensions, so the little twist they have can be pressed with a tongue-and-groove knife or a chisel when you're nailing up the boards.
Insert the tongue-and-groove knife into the base and press down, ensuring the tongue is completely down without a gap before you nail down the nail. Then just move along the board and do the same thing. Use a board of the same dimension and groove between the chisel and the one you are going to nail to avoid marks.
I hope I don't seem silly or overly obvious, but I assume others might be reading too, and what's nice about this forum is that some are good and experienced at certain things, and others at others!
Since I'm "pretending to be knowledgeable!" When buying the wood, sort out resin streaks (longitudinal dark stripes in the wood) and knots. It's a pain when you want to glaze and can't use shellac. Streaks and knots can bleed resin forever! (Can be annoying in the bedroom if you get stuck to the wall. He, He)
Final tip; (I promise!
) If the wood tends to crack when you nail it: tap the point of the nail with the hammer to make it blunter. That way, it pushes the wood fibers in front of it instead of wedging between them, and the wood rarely cracks. It will surely turn out great! Johan
As mentioned, it's important to stack the timber neatly (well-stacked, etc.), and place some heavy items on top, or use tension straps around the entire pile, or both. As Korp-Kalle says, they will twist a little anyway, but not so much that you can't get them in place. I also try to avoid boards with very large knots (like half the width or so), because I find they tend to warp very sharply in those spots.
To me, a "spåntkniv" is a knife that looks like the blade is cut in half, with a sharp edge on the "cut" surface. So the sharp edge is forward, allowing you to drive it into the stud with a hammer. What a lousy explanation! But I hope you get it anyway. Whether that's the correct name, I honestly have no clue! But I call it after what I use it for. (Maybe like calling a hammer the "pounder"?) New good name suggestions are welcome with gratitude! Johan
I thought a knife like that is called a stämkniv.
ok, thank you very much for the tips!
A follow-up question then... the wife wants wide paneling in the ceiling of our house, without grooves. Again, like råspont, but maybe nicer and smoother. What the heck kind of smooth wide paneling is available, I assume it also needs to be tongued and grooved!?
ok, thank you very much for the tips!
A follow-up question then... the wife wants wide paneling in the ceiling of our house, without grooves. Again, like råspont, but maybe nicer and smoother. What the heck kind of smooth wide paneling is available, I assume it also needs to be tongued and grooved!?
Thank you robowich!
I will always call it a stämkniv from now on!
I will always call it a stämkniv from now on!