Building Materials and Construction Technology
Gabbe1: Works excellent with Ø10mm The blocks have two "ditches" where you lay the rebars, and additionally, you should have about 10mm of mortar between the blocks so the bars fit without problem.
Mats: The calculations are based on the assumption that one does not go up and shovel when needed either.
Krawk: According to the manufacturers, rubber insulators should also break capillarity. (It would be strange otherwise. Rubber is a fairly dense material.) Whether this is true or not, there are surely differing opinions. I can possibly imagine that it becomes more easily damaged or dries out over time.
Krawk: As mentioned, plastic is usually not used when it is not heated. Use a "hard" windproof paper or similar if you want a dust barrier. Vapor barrier might be an alternative otherwise? The insulation will more or less work "both ways," or however you want to put it. In the summer, the warm side will be the outside, etc. There aren't any major moisture sources inside the garage either. (Unless you
cheetah1: It was very, no one has a clue? Then it's probably just time to bring out the crowbar.. It's pretty rotten anyway, so it's quite time..
markr: Hello! We have some old moisture damage in our dormers - a couple of timber pieces (sorry, I don't know if there's a technical term for them - I'm English!) need to be replaced, and some panels on the facade need to be replaced. I've opened it up from the inside and concluded that it's easiest to fix from the outside. When I removed everything, I noticed we had some kind of fireproof plasterboard
esara: Thank you! That sounds promising. Now here's the next question. Is it possible to put up lining paper on the wallpapers I haven't torn down, or do I have to first put new plasterboards on everything? According to various retailers, you can't put lining paper on top of the wallpaper, but I think that sounds a bit strange.
Anonymiserad 23608: It depends on which bruk you use for the casting. Use a ROT-bruk so you won't have to wait several months for the concrete to finish shrinking.
5.2 racing: One strike filler, or amerikanarn as we call it down here, works perfectly.
Sonoma: Again: thank you for the good answers! I really didn't know anything about ventilation before, but I'm starting to learn more and more... :-) If I understand correctly, it was a mistake by the current owner to switch to district heating without changing the ventilation. We could very well switch to something like FTX if needed. The question is whether it will be sufficient given that there is no
FredrikR: If you don't want to build, maybe IKEA's shelf series 'Lack' could be something for the purpose? http://www.ikea.com/se/sv/catalog/products/60103632
ByggBert: According to the statutes, changes must be reported to the board of the association :)
Byggare_moe: I am updating with a further development on my construction sketch. Is there anyone who can give some tips on dimensioning for columns, glued laminated ridge, basement steel beam?
gaia: lay tiles with wide joints so that moisture can migrate out. Usually works if there is moderate moisture migration occurring through the concrete floor. Do not use a moisture barrier underneath. I would be surprised if it gets dry under the plastic :) gaia
gaia: I would sacrifice a few hundred extra bucks to get pre-mixed fine lime plaster :). It still won't be many bags for a ceiling with a maximum of 5 mm plaster? Plaster sand is a somewhat unusual type of sand, and not all gravel pits have a kind that is suitable for lime plaster (I have been told). In concrete, you can mix anything, but lime plaster is a bit more picky :). It should preferably have
Skumpen: Hi, if you have a staircase with a wooden strip under the steps for child safety, and it's screwed, try loosening the screw a few turns because sometimes it's the strip that creaks.
Havsutsikt: Becoming slightly curious about which house manufacturer and which contractor. Maybe the same less smart carpenter who set up our house. It's unfortunate if the installers don't have the overall picture and don't realize that in the end, it's important how the walls are originally assembled. When I pointed it out, I got a nonsense answer about how it's wood and it's a living material..... As if
Krawk: Yes, they rarely did things just for fun in the past... The wood guide and similar sites are great, but you must not forget that they live off selling timber. Of course, they want you to use thicker beams instead. It can also be difficult to theoretically account for any significant effect of cross-bracing outside of concentrated load cases, which rarely determine dimensions.
kai_robert: No moisture barrier and regular adhesive will work well. Just make sure the surface is solid, without any paint or loose concrete debris, and it will be fine. Best regards, Kai
zamba: Hello. A bit late with a response perhaps, but better late than never. Myrsjöhus bought Vetlandahus in 1957. They might be able to help you with getting a drawing or something similar. Good luck.
anra: If you are going to add insulation to an aerated concrete wall that is plastered, must/should you create an air gap between the studs (metal)/insulation and the plastered aerated concrete wall? I am aware that it is recommended to place the additional insulation on the outside, but I don't think it's feasible. Moreover, it's in an unheated garage...
anra: I shouldn't have put it on a wooden wall! Throw on some plaster and it will be fine!
wohaa: Well, a support beam might not be necessary since the wall only makes contact with the plank running along the joint, and you can fit fingers between the sections. Is there no way to calculate nm per square meter for a 2-lane sectional house with a flat roof, stone on the first floor, sections on the second floor?
Crebel: Bearer is mentioned in a building description I have, but maybe it's only called that if the house is on piers? The upright board resting on the foundation (with sill paper in between, of course), which the floorboards are attached to, in any case. Thanks for the answers!
Krawk: You need something that ties the floor joists laterally and prevents them from tipping. Completely ignoring the top plate, edge beam, and sill won't work. You also need to ensure that the loads from the floor structure can be transferred over windows/doors. One way to do this is to notch the wall studs for an edge beam that the floor joists connect to via joist hangers. However, this requires
Crebel: Thanks for the response! I'm no longer receiving email notifications upon replies, just noticed this now. I started wondering why I wasn't getting answers to my questions anymore :-)!
nordarna: Big thanks to everyone for all the help. Now I'm getting started and we'll see how this turns out.