Depends on the rest of the construction, right? If it's just 2" 4 posts with a rafter on top, I would go with cc 60, but if you place a heavier dimension across all the studs that the roof then rests on, cc 120 would probably be enough. On the other hand, I've noticed that most things tend to hold up, even those that look very flimsy at first.
I want to recommend cc 60, with such a small slope. Although I don't know how wide the shed will be. Upper nail rule 2"6 that you notch in. Maybe an internal 2"6 at 60 cm above floor level, if you want shelves or benches? It also helps to direct and stabilize the studs if they are a bit askew, which they always are. Take care! Korp-Johan
Oh.. so tight?
The woodshed will be 9 meters long and 4 meters wide. I was planning to lay a sill and then standing 2x4s at 120cc, then a top plate or whatever it's called. On top of that, place 2x5s as rafters at 120cc. Then sheathing and felt. Will it collapse under the snow?
The woodshed will be 9 meters long and 4 meters wide. I was planning to lay a sill and then standing 2x4s at 120cc, then a top plate or whatever it's called. On top of that, place 2x5s as rafters at 120cc. Then sheathing and felt. Will it collapse under the snow?
45x95 (2"x4") is structurally sufficient, but going a bit stronger might not be a bad idea if you plan to space them at cc120... Don't forget to add diagonal braces on all four walls. Otherwise, the whole shed might collapse or buckle sideways. (You're not planning to put up any sheet material like plasterboard or chipboard, right?)
But for roof joists, you should increase the size, 45x120 with a span of 4 meters is not recommended, at least 45x170 I think. And they can be spaced at cc120.
edit: Is it the Kalmar area? (considering the amount of snow)
But for roof joists, you should increase the size, 45x120 with a span of 4 meters is not recommended, at least 45x170 I think. And they can be spaced at cc120.
edit: Is it the Kalmar area? (considering the amount of snow)
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I would probably place them at cc 60. That is standard. But I might be overdoing it a bit since I live 14 km north of Kalix. Here we use at least 2"6 (most commonly 2"8) for framework cc 60. Sill under with sill strip and screws in the concrete with an expander. At the top, we notch out for a nailing batten, i.e., a 2"6 or 2"8 on edge, so the rafters (or ceiling beams in your case) have something stable to rest on and so there is plenty to fasten the panel and facade to. A top plate on top of the plate is great so that it covers the end grain of the studs.
Cc 120 for the rafters is standard, but up here we have to use more stable timber unless we laminate some glulam beams together. On the other hand, we always make pointed roofs here or incline the roof A LOT if it is to be flat. A meter of snow in the spring, a little thaw, and then frost again, it gets heavy!
Alternatively, you can always place some bearing posts inside if they are not in the way. And if it's just a wood shed, maybe it's not so aesthetically particular. Build as you planned and as cheaply as you can. You'll find out in the spring if the roof sags and you can always support it then!?
You shouldn't fuss and fiddle too much. The important thing about a wood shed is that it has gaps in the walls and floor, and is waterproof upwards, for ventilation and the sake of the wood. My wood shed is on Lecablocks and floorboards with a 5 mm gap, and a 70 cm roof overhang. Works here in the north!
Sorry if I caused the sad face! Build on! Korp-Johan
Cc 120 for the rafters is standard, but up here we have to use more stable timber unless we laminate some glulam beams together. On the other hand, we always make pointed roofs here or incline the roof A LOT if it is to be flat. A meter of snow in the spring, a little thaw, and then frost again, it gets heavy!
Alternatively, you can always place some bearing posts inside if they are not in the way. And if it's just a wood shed, maybe it's not so aesthetically particular. Build as you planned and as cheaply as you can. You'll find out in the spring if the roof sags and you can always support it then!?
You shouldn't fuss and fiddle too much. The important thing about a wood shed is that it has gaps in the walls and floor, and is waterproof upwards, for ventilation and the sake of the wood. My wood shed is on Lecablocks and floorboards with a 5 mm gap, and a 70 cm roof overhang. Works here in the north!
Sorry if I caused the sad face! Build on! Korp-Johan
Mikael_L: Is 1 meter between the roof rafters sufficient then? I've already bought all the timber. Otherwise, I might place 2"4 between 2"5. Then it would be on cc60. In the Kalmar area, yes.
Korp-Johan: The woodshed has to be reasonably "nice." It will be connected to the house on one long side. This build has to turn out well; otherwise, I wouldn't care so much.
Korp-Johan: The woodshed has to be reasonably "nice." It will be connected to the house on one long side. This build has to turn out well; otherwise, I wouldn't care so much.
Are you going to have a vaulted ceiling or (as I assume) just rafters forming a sloping lean-to roof?
You can check here, for example:
http://www.beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_ByggradListItem.aspx?id=11795
Here the span is 3.7 meters and the roof pitch is 10 degrees, yet they suggest 45x220 as roof beams.
(Both the span and roof pitch are more favorable here).
Snow zone 2 (Assuming you have 2 or possibly 1.5) and K12 timber (i.e., roughly fine straight unclassified lumber yard wood of the finest kind you'll find at the lumber yard).
Then they settle with 45x95 for standing studs, though at cc60. But you’re building a wood storage, so I don't think you need to build in as much safety margin in such a building.
http://www.beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_ByggradListItem.aspx?id=11795
Here the span is 3.7 meters and the roof pitch is 10 degrees, yet they suggest 45x220 as roof beams.
(Both the span and roof pitch are more favorable here).
Snow zone 2 (Assuming you have 2 or possibly 1.5) and K12 timber (i.e., roughly fine straight unclassified lumber yard wood of the finest kind you'll find at the lumber yard).
Then they settle with 45x95 for standing studs, though at cc60. But you’re building a wood storage, so I don't think you need to build in as much safety margin in such a building.
The thing is that the shed is going to be attached to the house, and I want it to be good but not overkill. I'm considering using cc60 for the vertical studs. Then changing the slope to 9 or 10 degrees. Likewise cc60 for the roof joists. 50x100 (I've bought it rough) Then it can't fall apart, no matter what Beijerbygg says, right? They count on fitting in some insulation too, don't they?
I'm currently looking at my terrace roof, which has a span of 4 meters with 2x5 as roof joists. Around cc90. Low slope but plastic roofing though. Then only 3 pieces of 4x4 as vertical studs with a 2x5 notched into the studs, standing. I'm not a bit nervous. It's been like that since '67.
Pondering...
I'm currently looking at my terrace roof, which has a span of 4 meters with 2x5 as roof joists. Around cc90. Low slope but plastic roofing though. Then only 3 pieces of 4x4 as vertical studs with a 2x5 notched into the studs, standing. I'm not a bit nervous. It's been like that since '67.
Pondering...
Here is a construction that has 2"5 80 cc. It holds there, right? I don't understand anything.
http://www.beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_ByggradListItem.aspx?id=11802&print=true
http://www.beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_ByggradListItem.aspx?id=11802&print=true
But you should have twice the span.
120x45 (C14) c-c 60cm is according to the wood guide okay for a 7.5m wide two-story house with self-supporting trusses and a heavy roof in snow zone 2.5.
Considering that, it should be risk-free to set them c-c 120cm on a woodshed with a 4m span.
Considering that, it should be risk-free to set them c-c 120cm on a woodshed with a 4m span.