Removed some custom-built wardrobes in the bedroom, and a couple of cabinets in the kitchen which is adjacent.
Took down the wall in between to create a larger space in the kitchen since the wall was offset due to the wardrobes from the bedroom.
It turned out that the floor/subfloor was quite poor, with linoleum, 10 mm chipboard, and in some cases, no floor at all, just 10 cm of gravel!
I don't want to build too thick a wall due to other areas, and parts of the existing wall have a depth of 7 cm (reinforced lightweight concrete).
What is suitable for simplicity and durability?
45*70 studs or 90 studs?
I plan to have at most a couple of cabinets on the wall facing the kitchen and at most a TV on the other side of the wall, i.e., in the bedroom.
How should I fix along the floor to achieve durability as in some cases it can be screwed into 10 mm chipboard and in some cases not due to the gravel.
Can attach to the ceiling, probably sufficiently in the lightweight concrete on both sides of the planned wall!
Grateful for your response.
//T
Took down the wall in between to create a larger space in the kitchen since the wall was offset due to the wardrobes from the bedroom.
It turned out that the floor/subfloor was quite poor, with linoleum, 10 mm chipboard, and in some cases, no floor at all, just 10 cm of gravel!
I don't want to build too thick a wall due to other areas, and parts of the existing wall have a depth of 7 cm (reinforced lightweight concrete).
What is suitable for simplicity and durability?
45*70 studs or 90 studs?
I plan to have at most a couple of cabinets on the wall facing the kitchen and at most a TV on the other side of the wall, i.e., in the bedroom.
How should I fix along the floor to achieve durability as in some cases it can be screwed into 10 mm chipboard and in some cases not due to the gravel.
Can attach to the ceiling, probably sufficiently in the lightweight concrete on both sides of the planned wall!
Grateful for your response.
//T
Hello!
Can you remove gravel to replace it with a rule?
Alternatives: Cast on top of the gravel, or as above, i.e., replace gravel with concrete.
Or, replace/supplement the particle board with, for example, OSB board (=stronger).
Or maybe it's enough that the bottom rule is attached at the outer ends (+ a few additional places)?
Depends on the length of the wall, among other things.
Of course, it's fine to have a thickness of 70mm... if better sound insulation is desired, choose a thicker dimension.
Does anything seem like it might work?
Can you remove gravel to replace it with a rule?
Alternatives: Cast on top of the gravel, or as above, i.e., replace gravel with concrete.
Or, replace/supplement the particle board with, for example, OSB board (=stronger).
Or maybe it's enough that the bottom rule is attached at the outer ends (+ a few additional places)?
Depends on the length of the wall, among other things.
Of course, it's fine to have a thickness of 70mm... if better sound insulation is desired, choose a thicker dimension.
Does anything seem like it might work?
Hello, thank you for your quick response.
Can remove the gravel, afraid that new gravel will just come in from the sides. It seems like there is gravel under the entire floor (old insulation method?)
The wall itself will be supplemented with OSB and plasterboard, do you mean that parts of the floor should be replaced with OSB board to then frame from there?
I assess that I can attach well on one outer end, unfortunately not the side whose gravel opening runs in the floor parallel to the intended wall. About 40% of the area where the floor joist is intended to go has the gravel issue, the remaining 60% has, as mentioned, the 10mm thick particle board as a base.
The wall's length is 290, the height will be 250.
Besides the floor joist issue, do you think it will be a sustainable wall (max two IKEA standard upper kitchen cabinets) with 70*45 studs, OSB, and plasterboard? What do you think about 6mm plasterboard?
A floor will also be installed in place after the wall is settled. Could that perhaps help to keep the floor joist in place if it fits poorly?
Thank you so much for your quick response and help
//T
Can remove the gravel, afraid that new gravel will just come in from the sides. It seems like there is gravel under the entire floor (old insulation method?)
The wall itself will be supplemented with OSB and plasterboard, do you mean that parts of the floor should be replaced with OSB board to then frame from there?
I assess that I can attach well on one outer end, unfortunately not the side whose gravel opening runs in the floor parallel to the intended wall. About 40% of the area where the floor joist is intended to go has the gravel issue, the remaining 60% has, as mentioned, the 10mm thick particle board as a base.
The wall's length is 290, the height will be 250.
Besides the floor joist issue, do you think it will be a sustainable wall (max two IKEA standard upper kitchen cabinets) with 70*45 studs, OSB, and plasterboard? What do you think about 6mm plasterboard?
A floor will also be installed in place after the wall is settled. Could that perhaps help to keep the floor joist in place if it fits poorly?
Thank you so much for your quick response and help
//T
Yes, the idea was, as you say, to first cover gravel with OSB board. Or floor chipboard. This board should be able to be screwed and glued to the floor joists/beams that are alongside your intended wall. Then screw the horizontal wall stud into the board.
But how you do it depends on a lot... for example, are there suitable existing and visible floor joists? Or, as mentioned, it might be enough to attach it to the sides of the "gravel pit." One could imagine making a "homemade laminated beam" too, i.e., gluing several beams together. That's probably overkill in this case...
Regarding the choice of boards for wall cladding afterwards: Do not use only 6 mm plasterboard. At least use a regular 12.5 mm plasterboard. Preferably place OSB underneath, so the wall becomes stronger and stiffer, and all cabinets are easier to attach...
If you want a thin and strong wall, you can also set the studs at a smaller center-to-center distance...
PS: At the end where it is difficult to attach the floor stud, you attach it to the existing wall (or to a standing stud you attach first to the wall). But maybe you've already thought of that? Best regards.
But how you do it depends on a lot... for example, are there suitable existing and visible floor joists? Or, as mentioned, it might be enough to attach it to the sides of the "gravel pit." One could imagine making a "homemade laminated beam" too, i.e., gluing several beams together. That's probably overkill in this case...
Regarding the choice of boards for wall cladding afterwards: Do not use only 6 mm plasterboard. At least use a regular 12.5 mm plasterboard. Preferably place OSB underneath, so the wall becomes stronger and stiffer, and all cabinets are easier to attach...
If you want a thin and strong wall, you can also set the studs at a smaller center-to-center distance...
PS: At the end where it is difficult to attach the floor stud, you attach it to the existing wall (or to a standing stud you attach first to the wall). But maybe you've already thought of that? Best regards.
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Thinking a lot but not getting much wiser 
Anyway, it's probably going to be 70 rule with cc 40 now!
OSB and 12.5 plasterboard.
I'll solve the "grusgropen" somehow.
Is OSB available in different thicknesses or is it standard?
Open to more ideas if anyone comes up with any.
Thanks for the answers
Have a nice evening/night
Anyway, it's probably going to be 70 rule with cc 40 now!
OSB and 12.5 plasterboard.
I'll solve the "grusgropen" somehow.
Is OSB available in different thicknesses or is it standard?
Open to more ideas if anyone comes up with any.
Thanks for the answers
Have a nice evening/night