Hello,
I bought the house a year ago and have now come to one of the many rooms that need to be redone.
The problem in this room is that the wallpaper has cracked from floor to ceiling at the joint between the particle boards. I haven't torn anything in the room yet, but I guess there's no same type of joint (recess) as with drywall, and the particle boards might move a bit with the seasons?
What can be done most easily to prevent this from happening when you wallpaper anew?
Replace the particle boards with drywall?
Feel free to brainstorm..
I bought the house a year ago and have now come to one of the many rooms that need to be redone.
The problem in this room is that the wallpaper has cracked from floor to ceiling at the joint between the particle boards. I haven't torn anything in the room yet, but I guess there's no same type of joint (recess) as with drywall, and the particle boards might move a bit with the seasons?
What can be done most easily to prevent this from happening when you wallpaper anew?
Replace the particle boards with drywall?
Feel free to brainstorm..
Diversearbetare
· Göteborg
· 11 247 posts
You simply put drywall on the particle boards. Minimum work and you get a smooth wall where you can attach things easily and durably. Offset the seams.
But then it would be quite a bit of work to fit the lining and cutouts and such things so that it looks good...
How would it work if you mill out the joints between the panels and in this way get a larger joint that can be filled in a suitable way..?
How would it work if you mill out the joints between the panels and in this way get a larger joint that can be filled in a suitable way..?
A long time ago, before drywall became common, the joints between particle boards were reinforced with fiberglass strips. The results varied - sometimes the strips held, sometimes they didn't.
Yes, cut away like a V and then putty and apply strips, that's what you do on plasterboard, so it might work on particle boards too. If the house isn't brand new, it might have stopped moving so much as well.
Otherwise, renovation plasterboard might be an option here. It only adds 6 mm, so maybe window casings, etc. don't need to be changed?
Otherwise, renovation plasterboard might be an option here. It only adds 6 mm, so maybe window casings, etc. don't need to be changed?
The idea is to rout a bit like a V and then fill with a suitable material.
The room will become a children's room where there will be playing and surely drawing on walls and such, so I really just want to wallpaper over and freshen up the cracks.
The house itself was built in -78, so it should have settled by now.
The room will become a children's room where there will be playing and surely drawing on walls and such, so I really just want to wallpaper over and freshen up the cracks.
The house itself was built in -78, so it should have settled by now.
The cracks are not due to settling in the house, but are caused by changes in air humidity with the season. This leads to movements in the timber frame, which then develops cracks on the walls. One way to avoid this is to build a stone house.
Diversearbetare
· Göteborg
· 11 247 posts
Moral of the story: ignore the cracks and tear down the house instead.bengan6 said:
One way to avoid cracks in the joints is to do as the sheet manufacturers write in the installation instructions; glue all the joints AND screw + glue to the frames
In our house, the previous owner had installed chipboard on almost all the walls upstairs, filled the joints, taped over (fiberglass), and then filled over this. Then wallpapered.
I can state that it's not a major problem that the boards aren't beveled like drywall; the joints look pretty good even though the tape and filler sit on top of the boards instead of in a bevel.
But the durability is so-so. In a couple of rooms, it went well, but in another, there are hairline cracks over a couple of joints. Since the house was over fifty years old when this was done, and therefore should have "settled" in every way, it's easy to suspect that it's the shrink/swell movements in the boards themselves that caused this.
Conclusion: Do as Gunverth says, use drywall if you want to be foolproof against cracks.
(Although I won't do that myself, at least not everywhere...)
I can state that it's not a major problem that the boards aren't beveled like drywall; the joints look pretty good even though the tape and filler sit on top of the boards instead of in a bevel.
But the durability is so-so. In a couple of rooms, it went well, but in another, there are hairline cracks over a couple of joints. Since the house was over fifty years old when this was done, and therefore should have "settled" in every way, it's easy to suspect that it's the shrink/swell movements in the boards themselves that caused this.
Conclusion: Do as Gunverth says, use drywall if you want to be foolproof against cracks.
(Although I won't do that myself, at least not everywhere...)