Building Materials and Construction Technology
Richtmann: Wind barrier works excellently when placed against the roof; in old houses, the paper was used and it has worked well, so there shouldn't be any problems at all. Otherwise, you can just use cover paper if you want, as the function, as I understand it, is just to keep the sawdust in place so it doesn't fall down.
Richtmann: The best is to take the closest underneath you find, then if the hole is not big enough, a rasp is most suitable to make the hole larger with. But it worked out for you anyway :)
Yrrol: The house is built like this...and it's more manly than wimpy plaster.. ;) No, but I don't feel like tearing down all the walls when I just need to close up an opening... Besides, I've read that it's an advantage to mix materials when it comes to soundproofing. Many interior walls will have plaster on one side and masonite on the other. - So don't worry, much more plaster than masonite will be
mycke_nu: The talk of quality is a bunch of nonsense... Bought trusses in graded and stamped timber from a quality-certified truss factory here on Gotland (you can google and guess which one). When I pointed out that several of the installed trusses had long, through cracks in the timber, they just stared blankly at me. The "solution" they came up with was a bundle of nail plates and a few packages of
r.borgmaster: Hello, I am renovating a 2-story townhouse from 1971. The house includes a double garage. One of the spaces is smaller than the other, as approximately 2x2m in one corner is "stolen" for a WC & cloakroom accessible from the hallway. I plan to demolish the WC and build a new one in the area currently used for the cloakroom. This way, some space can be returned to the garage. The wall that needs to
jeppeknaster: Isn't it possible to just drill and screw the studs in place?
ByggareNick: Hi. I'm looking for the same thing as you, unfortunately I haven't found anything good either. If you come across a good book, I would be happy if you let me know. Take care. Niklas
JanneL: Standing tongue-and-groove planks in this dimension can very well be load-bearing. One of my houses has this construction. If you don't have a wall under this wall in the basement, it is most likely not load-bearing. However, consult a professional to be sure.
ByggareNick: Scrape off the plastic mat and the glue, leave the concrete as it is if it's nice, otherwise paint it. Tiles would look terrible, I think.
tompa_70: If you want it really nice and it's specifically limträ, then a bandsaw is not a bad choice. I took two posts on the trailer and went to a carpentry shop where they sawed it to the millimeter.
Roary: Underpressure = A lot of air is sucked out and less in. If it becomes airtight then it doesn't matter, and it should become so with foam. If it starts to smell musty in the kitchen, you'll know where it's coming from... I would have used something inorganic just to be on the safe side, but I am sometimes overly cautious.
magnu: [citat] The key with soundproofing is to avoid areas where sound can easily get through. Holes and gaps are completely unacceptable. A large part of the sound is dampened by forcing the sound to change its transport medium. My understanding is that 70+50mm stone wool with a 20mm air gap in between dampens sound better than 150mm stone wool. My idea was that you should press in 100mm stone wool
Eld: What I did that really worked was to chip away a few centimeters from all surfaces. Then build a mold and cast a new surface layer. Afterwards, the stairs were slurry-coated. It turned out great, durable and non-slip. My experience is that tiles never last in the long run. Sooner or later, water seeps in underneath and in the joints and cracks them. Same problem with epoxy.
yllom: I have been considering mounting an OSB board before the drywall to, among other things, even out any irregularities in the roof decking. If I then attach the drywall with staggered seams and am extremely careful to seal in the corners and at the ceiling/floor connections, this should resist convection, right? Do you have any examples of wind barrier products?? Best regards, Y
_bystrom_: If I recall correctly (which I don't think I do), a fully insulated chimney pipe should be at least 50mm away from combustible material. I ordered a chimney myself this summer, which will go on the outside of the wall, and I remember being told to measure how deep the roof overhang was - because the chimney pipe couldn't be closer than 50mm to the verge boards since they are combustible.
cheetah1: Nonono, for god's sake, no plastic. Keep the råsponten, but feel free to remove the tretexen. There's actually nothing wrong with it, if you can get a good surface you can wallpaper on it, but it's a little more flammable than drywall.
EB: How did it go? Did you buy an Asgård 1, or did you get another one? And how does it work in that case?
Humulus: In principle, what the engineer writes is that the lower temperature creates a greater "chimney effect" and thus more radon-rich air is drawn into the dwelling. However, there are additional factors at play, so one cannot directly say that the relationship between outside temperature and radon gas levels in the home is linear. For example, the "system" is influenced by the ground temperature at
Tomas J: I never tore down the old cardboard but nailed the panel on top of it. Unfortunately, I have no idea how you should do it in your case, so you'll have to hope someone more knowledgeable responds.
Krockis: I have a 30-year-old Älvsbyhus that was originally built with a porch as an entrance. I have never liked this porch as it creates a dark and uninviting entry to the house. Therefore, I have converted the entire porch into a vestibule and moved the front door outward, but still have a glazed inner door where the old front door was located. This has now provided me with a bright and good entrance
Kalle_h: Yes, I think we are misunderstanding each other a bit. I probably expressed myself a bit clumsily, but you can (in such winters) encounter "setbacks" in ventilation systems of the natural draft type, and then you are likely to get overpressure. The percentage of humidity in the indoor air is lower, but the air indoors has a greater capacity to hold moisture and receives additional moisture from
knicklas: We replaced the needle felt with a plastic mat that looks like old rustic oak planks. The stair nose was made of oak and of course, it remained. We were very pleased with the result and the staircase is very comfortable to walk on, not particularly slippery either. Almost everyone comments on the staircase and thinks it's beautiful. Even carpenters think we've covered the entire staircase with
montea: hey.,, aaah of course, well haha nooo, I haven't built up any wall,, I've demolished that's why it's hanging down from the ceiling, those walls that are there are supporting and have always been there:D:D
danne007: Now when I checked if the floor was level, I noticed that it differs by about 4mm. The track is 3m long. Then it's not possible to use tape. I'll probably need to use plastic spacers and screw it in. Unless someone else has a good idea?
verktygsgurun: [citat] You are wrong...but it's easy to confuse. A hole saw for a device box is called T70 but is 74mm and for a junction box, they are called T80 but are 84mm.