Building Materials and Construction Technology
magnu: It costs about 100kr/day to rent a chop/miter saw at Cramo. Just make sure the blade is OK when you pick up the saw. A used brand name chop saw (Dewalt) seems to be available for around 2000 - 2500. But these machines require storage space. Just avoiding the need to store the machine between jobs may make it worthwhile to rent.
turbopilot: Thanks for all the answers! The last one was particularly interesting, although it might be a bit much work, we'll see what I dare to attempt :) I'll get back with the results.
msvensson: Combustible materials must not be closer than 10cm to the smoke channel, 3cm to the kitchen fan channel, right next to regular ventilation according to the chimney sweep. I don't always think metal materials are better as they conduct heat into combustible materials more effectively. The best course of action is to call your chimney sweep, different chimney districts sometimes interpret
Jan-Å: [citat] Yes, that's how I remember we did it, it was quite a few years ago, so I don't recall in detail, but there must be something to screw the gles into. We have used the styrofoam model of moldings, a bit easier to glue them up than to screw/nail wooden moldings, especially if they’re wide. But they are expensive as hell. I've also looked at the "beams" in styrofoam, they look very natural,
magnu: [citat] Brilliant - I hadn't thought of that! 1 Don't bother to drill out the holes in the frame! 2 Assemble the frame 3 Place the frame exactly where you want it. Fix with wedges 4 Measure that the frame is straight with a really good (=expensive) spirit level, preferably a straightedge 5 Check that the diagonals in the frame are equal 6 Install a small, long drill in the hammer drill 7 Using
Richtmann: There is no problem with screwing into the floor, there will be no problems at all.
Hass-el: I am looking for 15 x 15 cm tiles to place without grout on the chimney behind my kitchen stove. I have heard that there are tiles that are "precision ground" to be exact in the measurement so that the grout doesn't "wander" when I have laid a few rows. Is there anyone who can suggest where I can find tiles for this - primarily white - I could also consider 10 x 15 or similar.
r.borgmaster: Here's what it looks like: [bild] [bild] The floor joists are 70mm and there is 2-3 sometimes 4cm of space down to the concrete. The concrete is quite uneven. There are about 25 up to the level for the finished floor on the joists. So in total, it is about 11-12cm to fill up. I assume you lay as much styrofoam as you can? The reason I'm talking about air gaps and so on (note that I don't have
Bödde: We have a house in the shape of an H-building and I'm currently working on our sunroom, which has one long side against the house wall and both short sides against the parallel walls of the H-building (hmm, hope you understand what I mean :P). The roof consists of a slope with a metal roof over it. We are considering skipping insulation in the sunroom roof and instead painting the rafters and
Mikael_L: However, if you read the BT website, you might wonder if the nails can handle the outdoors, very thin zinc coating there: :cool: "Coated with at least a 50 micromillimeter thick zinc layer." http://www.biltema.se/products/product.asp?iItemId=135647 Well, 50 nanometers isn't much to write home about. Not so many years ago, processor manufacturers were proud of having achieved such narrow circuits
Forbo: Check out K-rauta, they have a promotional price on "modern" wall panels right now. www.krauta.se
anaitis: Check how and where the slab is insulated. At that time, it was still common to insulate the slab on the wrong side, on the top side. Risk of moisture problems. Have a very thorough inspection done!
jeppeknaster: Even the water splashing is low against the wall at the door... :) And many saunas do have tiles and presumably also "sealant" behind. I can't access GVK's pdf, so I can't check what it says there, but under "questions and answers" on their site, there is this text: "Do you have to have a waterproofing layer in the entire wet room? Answer: Generally, the whole wet room is considered a risk zone,
jorme: Why is the gypsum only screwed into the OSB and not into the studs? How are the studs positioned? If an OSB board fits on the studs, then a gypsum board should fit too, and of course with staggered joints. Most of the extension will be a bathroom, and I don't have a vapor barrier in the wall there. I have 120 OSB boards and 90 gypsum boards because they are more manageable, studded at 60 cm on
miry: I believe that in many cases people have built based on what they think looks like it usually does without calculating it, but for sports halls, it's likely that someone made a mistake during construction. You know how it sometimes goes; builders think it's over-dimensioned, and even if it says to bolt a beam with 4 bolts tightened to a certain torque, they might think two bolts are enough or
v-g: Alright, let the ski.. uh, tretex stay, I did that ;) However, if you have a fireplace, it's perfect to soak tretex in diesel and use it as kindling, nothing beats this combo :D
mattias dalgaard: I want to build a storage under ground, beneath my existing entrance/patio. The entrance area has 3 existing walls (masonry) that continue underground to the basement floor. (3 walls like a U) What is missing to create a storage is excavation, the fourth wall, floor, and ceiling. How should a good construction look like for the ceiling, which will also be the floor for the outdoor area (wood
begripen: Hi! I have plans for façade renovation of a 53 sqm frost-damaged brick façade where about 30-40 bricks are more or less cracked or broken, and the mortar has loosened on larger parts of the façade. The other three façades are fine, so it's only this one I'm planning to address. I want a light/white appearance, but it doesn't have to be plaster. As I understand it, the work of chiseling out
mycke_nu: The boards are 120 cm wide, the studs are placed at 60 cm c-c. The gypsum boards are offset by 60 cm relative to the wood fiber boards.
Linkan222: Looks like something most manufacturers have as standard. Elitfönster, SP, traryd. Check the nearest lumberyard.
itsanx: The whiteboard is now in place with sturdy Fischer plugs. Fantastic - Thanks for the help lajsiiwan, MathiasS, and Jan-Å!
forgus31: I'll probably go and buy a tube. It feels shaky to drill into the concrete, and the pipe I drilled into was 20 mm in. I have a plumbing schematic now, but in some places, I'm attaching the profile with glue, it seems safest. Is PL400 the right choice? Are there any health regulations? I don't want anything that emits gas when it ages or gets wet.
MaZtoR: The problem with our local byggmax is that it becomes damp in the hall where they have the gypsum. So sometimes the boards are damp and then it becomes a hell to work with them.
Swappe: I reinforced my steel studs in the middle with an angle iron on the wall and then attached it at an appropriate depth to the stud. (costs about 4kr each) Also added 12mm plywood with offset drywall on the outside. rock solid after that.
Maveric77: Hello everyone! My partner and I have recently bought a house that we are planning to renovate and fix up! Among a thousand other things, we are (hopefully) going to open up an old outer wall towards the porch to get a more open floor plan and more light! The house itself (except for the porch, more on that later) is built with brick walls with an air gap in between. It is a 1½ story house with
Gränsbygdsbo: Hello, I am new here and hope to get answers from those who know more than me. I am about to start the basement project in my 100-year-old split-level house. The previous owners enthusiastically painted plastic paint on the walls (quite some time ago) and I have decided to remove it. I tried using steam and a scraper and realized that it's the plaster that needs to come off, plain and simple. Or
Avemo: [citat] In that case, it is important to use sufficiently poor glue. Well-made glue joints can be as strong as the surrounding wood. If you break it apart, it usually splits near the glue joint, but rarely exactly in the joint all the way. Erik
Marlen Eskilsson: Here you have a variant: http://www.larssonhus.se/timmerfasad/index.html
Tossegubbe: Well, if you have double board on the wall, the box only builds in about 20mm in the wall, but I would still recommend a 45mm on CC 600 so you can add an extra 45mm insulation there. If you're not going to insulate more, 28x70 works perfectly to save space or 22x70 if it's framed 600CC standing. I've sometimes used råspont as it's the cheapest option. [citat]
Richtmann: Installing noggings between the studs stiffens a lot. If you want the wall to become stiff, you can glue the board (chipboard) for example and screw it, then screw drywall onto the chipboard; that will make a difference.