Building Materials and Construction Technology
D09: An acquaintance is in the process of building. When he checked a section where he hadn't installed plastic, i.e., removed the insulation board (if I recall correctly), an ice film had formed on the inside of the wind barrier, and apparently, there was a discoloration on the outside of the framework. What could be the cause of this? Could it be due to the lack of plastic? Internal moisture
jomany: Just tried a small piece of cured foam sealant from Biltema. It burned well but not exactly explosively. Like kindling, roughly. My amateur assessment is that it doesn't have any decisive impact in a house with kutterspån in the walls and beams, i.e., like in mine.....:rolleyes: ///j
Coffelito: I tore down the old tile in the kitchen, and behind it, there was Masonite on the left half and a chimney behind the right half. Unfortunately, they are not on the same level; there's a 1cm difference between the Masonite and the chimney. How can I bring the chimney side out by 1cm? Can I use sand putty? I'm going to retile where the old ones were.
Jan-Å: Indoors? We had damage on the stair nosings in the basement stairs outdoors, but there is now a roof and wall over the stairs, so they are not exposed to direct weather, although cold/heat and a bit of rainwater and snow can blow in. I placed a regular concrete slab in front as support for the concrete and then filled in the holes with regular concrete, without using any reinforcement either. Of
Jan-Å: [citat] Our kitchen fixtures have been hanging since 2003 in plug/French screws in siporex/blue concrete. No problem at all, just need to use the right type of plug. Talking simplicity, it's clearly simpler to drill a few holes and insert plugs than to first build a wall, right? ;)
bigl: http://www.bygghemma.se/inomhus/innerdörrar/skjutdörrar/
Yrrol: electricity and water are not present there. (the corner would be between the door and the radiator, so to speak) [bild] the idea was to remove the wall between the two rooms and get a large bathroom, haven't finished planning how it should be designed though... initially, I thought of placing the shower there in the intended corner (and then making it an angle on the inside as well) but then
MathiasS: The new chimney is of the Premodul type and has a diameter of 28cm. Additionally, there are 5cm for combustible material. It feels a bit shaky to extend so much on the width. I will take a closer look at the support that has already been done and see if it's possible to build stronger from that.
Roundup: Bottna you should be able to do with regular rock wool insulation, like the thin kind used for caulking around windows. Then, unless you have an extremely hot chimney wall, regular acrylic sealant or painter's caulk or whatever it's called should work fine if you want to use a soft seal for the very last part.
jeppeknaster: Chose the quick-setting concrete, but now it turns out I won't be doing the masonry just yet. However, I need to remove the formwork, can it be done after just over 20 hours, or should I wait longer? It's about 12 cm at the thickest part. Regarding the casting: Now I rinsed the mixer between each batch. Do you have to do that, or can you just keep mixing until you're done?
Snaps: We are considering buying. We were thinking of building a 2-story garage with space for a home theater on the upper floor =) But we need to check a bit on what it may cost and what is required to build out to the side instead. Should we use foundation posts or should we go with a small staircase and concrete slab?
Rickard M: Thanks! Yes, now I have a new hobby! But that's just fun! I have quite a bit to do otherwise moving forward as well (new ceilings, kitchen, and bathroom). The house is, as mentioned, a townhouse; our part is roughly in the middle, brick, built in 1962, on both sides of ours it is therefore the same for someone else. So the garage door is actually on a very long long side on the ground floor, so
jomany: Bluestone contains varying amounts of radon depending on the type of bluestone it is. The rule of thumb (according to the professional who de-radoned my house) is that the darker blue it is, the more radon it contains. If it's really bad, the concrete is almost dark purple. I myself have a partition wall that is very faintly light blue. Apparently, that's nothing to worry about, as significantly
mange95: Thank you magnu, but that method wouldn't work for me because I want to keep the appearance. It should feel old-fashioned. A good idea here is to reinforce it from the inside with split studs. I think I should try that...
JanneL: The walls that should be load-bearing are the one built between the garage and the boiler room and the one located in the middle of the house where the boiler room door is located. The wall you are referring to is not load-bearing.
CrilleE: Okay, it'll probably be gypsum-based mortar then! Otherwise, I'll just keep getting annoyed by the seam... I expect to have to install a vent instead of the hose, but that shouldn't be any trouble, right? Someone from the association is supposed to come and take a look and explain how I should do it. The cord is just a regular extension cord that someone has threaded through a drilled hole.
cubix: Ok, I was thinking of wedges from the start, but I thought they might slide apart after a while. I'll see if I can find some at the hardware store. Thanks for the help:D
Gornor Ulragh: Hello In our old staircase from the 1920s, it creaked like a haunted house from the risers and treads. There are several ways to fix it, but primarily by either pulling the risers (the vertical part) and treads (the part you step on) together from above with dowels or screws = becomes visibly less attractive. You can inject silicone/oil = reduce friction = temporary solution I think. I did what I
kalubah: Thanks for the response. I talked to a colleague who suggested that I skip the hatch and install a hygrometer instead. Cheaper and easier, so I'll probably do that. d^_^b
alfwik: I tear off the particle boards and remove the plastic and install the drywall that is approved.
danielr112: I will run the dehumidifier as soon as I heat the slightest bit since I will have some bare metal items. So I will probably skip the plastic entirely.
kalubah: Consider that you should look at the table for a compartment if you choose not to have any supports in the room. A bit of discouraging reading, but I would guess these floors will be enormously rigid. Additionally, they hardly account for the fact that the pine floor will interact with the floor joist. What kind of floor joists do you have today and how far do they span? Is the floor bouncing
Linkan222: [citat] If you're installing gypsum plank, it should hold with 17mm batten. The reason it's not a problem is probably because you use 28x70 as battens if you follow the "building standard" and then 32mm screws.
kalubah: Here is a link that shows the sawing process: http://www.traguiden.se/TGtemplates/PageTwoColumn.aspx?id=1134
johanna76: We are considering trying to expand our minimalist hallway by enclosing our front porch. The house is a falun red 1 1/2 story house from 1917 with vertical beams. The front porch is about 6 sqm under the roof, and the floor is a separate cast concrete slab of 6 sqm. Now to the question... Is it advisable to cover the concrete slab with insulation (like foam plastic) and use its stability, or do
Tossegubbe: I would recommend so-called guldhylsor or fjäderspik. They come in different versions, but the one I think is the best by far is the ones that look like a tube with a slit and collar on them. No problem to hammer in, and you avoid all the hassle with plastic plugs, etc.
bergstrollet: I will be installing paneling in the living room (22 mm since I have trusses with 120 cc). It has a slope of 18 degrees. How do I best complete the work? What do I need to consider? Should I start from the ridge and go downward or start from the wall? Should I measure and use a chalk line to ensure the paneling does not start to skew? How do you nail (I have a finish nailer)? The paneling is 120
Henri: [citat] With a washing machine in the space, I would install a floor drain and provide the floor with a waterproofing membrane. It's not uncommon for washing machines to leak water.
magnu: [citat] But that assumes that the floor under the platon mat is flat. Also, I have bought 75mm styrofoam that doesn't have the same dimension. With platon required: Even surface to lay the platon mat on. Platon laid flat Styrofoam sheets that have the same thickness on all edges. Easy to measure - measure the thickness in 2 places on each of the four edges of one or two sheets in the package.