Building Materials and Construction Technology
anaitis: [citat] Very large forces when the ice starts to move. So it's not the freezing effect that's the problem, but the movements. Have personal experience...
Händigheten: Thank you for the tips. I have a plastered brick house and need to add insulation. So you should paint the backside of the windows (the part of the windows that faces the gap between the window and the wall). Should you use regular acrylic sealant on the inside? Do you have any additional tips on how to add insulation to my plastered 2-story brick villa? I need to move the windows out to avoid
palbin: Hi! I am wondering how long one can expect 4x4 inch oak heartwood fence posts to last when they are just buried in sandy soil (just sand, essentially like on the beach) compared to other alternatives, like concrete footings, etc.? I am 50 and the fence only needs to last as long as I do - not one minute longer! Best regards Edit: I can say that the fence that stood there previously, made of
Havsutsikt: [citat] Exactly as it sounds, a bit of a shortcut, if you can't see it, it doesn't exist. The risk is that it will reappear.
Mats: The roof first. It's clearly easier to use the sheet lift without obstacles in the way.
Mattias_Jo1: The fabric itself I can remove easily, but since it is glued on and I have a small thin grid pattern left, it should be glue. But it's probably as you say. Maybe I can use a sander with very coarse sandpaper, I only need to do it towards the outer wall. The question then is how I should achieve a smooth surface or if it's enough to paint with a plaster/silicate paint and hope that it fills
pickels: Ok, then it's not just here that it's done that way. That was at least a little comforting to know. :)
GSM-Peter: Hello Thanks for the reply. Yes it's been up for a long time. Waited about 6 weeks before it was painted. Seems to have turned out quite well. :) Peter
Etyden: Hello Since what you are going to do will change the appearance of the facade, it requires a building permit. Regarding construction techniques, I hope that the slab is insulated. If not, you should probably try to add insulation to the floor. Then insulate the ceiling and walls as if you were building a house for real.
se38005: [citat] Moreover, you are not formally allowed to live in a "friggebod," and I don't think you can have water and sewage either; in both cases, a building permit is required.
pokergirl: Thank you! That didn't sound so tricky after all! I think I'll tackle the stove and see if I can manage it.
magnusss: Gypsum plaster+microlit sounds like a good idea. And before that, maybe you can glue some form of reinforcement from behind.
Mikael_L: Agree with OSB underneath and then 13mm drywall. Nothing to think about. Best combination of materials in terms of what you get for your money. However, you can just as well use 12mm chipboard and then 13mm drywall. OSB is probably a bit better, so I chose it as the price difference turned out to be marginal. Then fill at least half of the gap with the cheapest insulation board you can find. If
petemimo: Bought glass blocks at K-rauta yesterday to build a partition wall with glass blocks on top for light entry. Asked the "expert". What I was wondering was how to fit the last piece in a sensible way. Now I can probably solve it since I'm building a new wall and can wait to put up side rails, etc. But if you cut out a hole in an existing wall, it's not possible to work magic. I think it will be
Lagavulin: It may sound more right where you are, but it dampens better against the lower apartment when playing music/TV? Lagavulin
Immobil: If you want to save some money, remove the broken glass before you go. Scrape away the putty with a chisel and apply some paint in the rabbet where the glass was supposed to be.
Bellatrix: No, we have nowhere to move the loops to, as our plot is about 1000 m2 and every meter on the plot is filled with loops. Additionally, they go in the opposite direction of the extension which would mean that many more meters of pipe would disappear, compared to if they had gone along the extension.
danielr112: Yes, that sounds quite right. It depends partly on the heat outside and inside as well.
hakaner: Aaahaa... I think we're talking about slightly different things... You can often place a foil of the safety fabric type on top of the rafters and exclude the usual sheathing, this fabric should then be the waterproofing layer in the outer roof. Be sure to buy a diffusion-open fabric, then you can eliminate all air gaps in the outer roof construction! - Simple and more moisture-resistant than the
Per72: Try to place a piece of molding against the ceiling as it will sit. Extend the molding a little more than its width. Draw a faint line with a pencil along the edge facing the ceiling. Do the same on the opposite molding. As you can see, you now have an intersection on the ceiling where the two lines meet. At the intersection, the top ends of the moldings should meet. Now you can place the molding
Tossegubbe: Spontaneously, I see a greater advantage in using 36x195 with chamfered edges as the actual contact surface/thermal bridge against horizontal becomes about 30x45mm point-shaped thermal bridge. Completely different price for these in my shopping list anyway, in the previous list they are at 17.20kr per meter :D
gaia: a little construction waste doesn't hurt anyone :). It insulates poorly but doesn't rot from moisture, can store heat, and dampen sound. gaia
agrena: A small explanation! The pipe in the ceiling runs horizontally, which means that the hole that needs to be sealed will be 2 m x 20 cm and likely 10-20 cm high around the pipe.
Raceman: Baseboard block, or molding block as it is also called, is available by the meter at well-stocked lumberyards. It has always been used before as a finishing touch whether needed or not. Provides a much better overall impression. :)
kalubah: Does anyone know if it's possible to buy 90mm +/- 10mm wide pine flooring somewhere in the Stockholm area? I would like to install it within a couple of weeks, so I would prefer not to have to special order anything and hope that it might be available dried in stock somewhere.
stampenrangers: It depends a bit on what you want to do. Change a room's acoustic properties or soundproof. The quote you included contains some facts but is a little confused. Densities around 45-50kg/m3 are good in acoustic contexts because they absorb a wide spectrum of frequencies, which is why such materials are often used to absorb sound. Whether you then use fiberglass or mineral wool-based boards doesn't
Johan Gunverth: The wall will bulge considerably at the bottom due to the weight of the sand. There is a risk that the wall will collapse and/or the floor will settle.