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interior wall insulation - 45-50kg/m3 principle?
Sat browsing a bit and ended up on an old discussion from 2004.
So I visited Isover but they didn't list such technical data, so I have no idea what density they had...
In short, this 45-50kg/m3 - is it still relevant today or have insulation materials improved since 2004?
If we now disregard wall panels, which insulation would you choose, perhaps you know of any 45-50kg/m3 or 50-70kg/m3 so I don't have to look?
I spoke with Rockwool and asked which insulation they recommended, the answer was flexibat... But then I went in and checked, flexibat is only 30kg/m3... The only one I found that was better became drastically heavier, around 120kg/m3...Note that stone wool like Roxull and Paroc has poorer sound-absorbing properties than glass wool like Isover. Generally, you can say that it requires double the density if you use stone wool compared to glass wool. 45kg/m3 stone wool, I believe, will leave you quite disappointed.
For optimal insulation over all frequencies, the insulation should have a density of 40-48 kg/m3...
The posts pertain to insulation in partition walls, at least from my perspective. When it comes to room absorption, STONE WOOL with a density of 40-48 kg/m3 is TOO LITTLE. 70-100 kg/m3 is more optimal, though glass wool is a different story altogether.
Alternatively, a Rockwool board around 45-50kg/m3. Stone wool feels a bit more tested for this type of construction (stacking in corners).
So I visited Isover but they didn't list such technical data, so I have no idea what density they had...
In short, this 45-50kg/m3 - is it still relevant today or have insulation materials improved since 2004?
If we now disregard wall panels, which insulation would you choose, perhaps you know of any 45-50kg/m3 or 50-70kg/m3 so I don't have to look?
Today I called both Rockwool and Isover...
Isover said that their studies indicated that it doesn’t matter how heavy the insulation is...
Rockwool was a bit more open-minded, okay, they did think that their flexibat series was still applicable BUT admitted that my theory of laying a 20mm renovation board and then regular insulation on the remaining empty space (50mm) should give a slightly better result...
He said that in that case, I might as well take their Västkustskiva and cut it into smaller pieces, as this board has a higher density and is available at all retailers, unlike the renovation board... however, it was 30mm at the minimum...
I haven't checked the prices yet to see if it's justifiable...
So I don't know.... Interior walls with wooden studs, with different sections in the form of frames, masonite on one side, plasterboard on the other, maybe some wood together with the plasterboard... a 150kg density insulation board along with their flexibat 30-40kg insulation.... wondering if it's worth it...
It doesn't feel like Isover is better than Rockwool anymore when comparing their various values, but he claimed they had better thermal properties though...
Isover said that their studies indicated that it doesn’t matter how heavy the insulation is...
Rockwool was a bit more open-minded, okay, they did think that their flexibat series was still applicable BUT admitted that my theory of laying a 20mm renovation board and then regular insulation on the remaining empty space (50mm) should give a slightly better result...
He said that in that case, I might as well take their Västkustskiva and cut it into smaller pieces, as this board has a higher density and is available at all retailers, unlike the renovation board... however, it was 30mm at the minimum...
I haven't checked the prices yet to see if it's justifiable...
So I don't know.... Interior walls with wooden studs, with different sections in the form of frames, masonite on one side, plasterboard on the other, maybe some wood together with the plasterboard... a 150kg density insulation board along with their flexibat 30-40kg insulation.... wondering if it's worth it...
It doesn't feel like Isover is better than Rockwool anymore when comparing their various values, but he claimed they had better thermal properties though...
Member
· Västra Götaland
· 30 posts
It depends a bit on what you want to do. Change a room's acoustic properties or soundproof.
The quote you included contains some facts but is a little confused. Densities around 45-50kg/m3 are good in acoustic contexts because they absorb a wide spectrum of frequencies, which is why such materials are often used to absorb sound. Whether you then use fiberglass or mineral wool-based boards doesn't matter; it's the density and placement that are interesting here. Paroc's stack fiber board nrs 2t works well, for example.
If, on the other hand, you want to soundproof, i.e., prevent sound from coming in or out, then other construction techniques are needed. Multiple layers of board material of different thicknesses and materials, staggered seams, ideally both glued and screwed boards, boards laid overlapping in all seams between floor, wall, and ceiling without touching each other, with acoustic sealant in between... Perhaps making double walls with air gaps in the right places, and so on... quite complicated.
/A
The quote you included contains some facts but is a little confused. Densities around 45-50kg/m3 are good in acoustic contexts because they absorb a wide spectrum of frequencies, which is why such materials are often used to absorb sound. Whether you then use fiberglass or mineral wool-based boards doesn't matter; it's the density and placement that are interesting here. Paroc's stack fiber board nrs 2t works well, for example.
If, on the other hand, you want to soundproof, i.e., prevent sound from coming in or out, then other construction techniques are needed. Multiple layers of board material of different thicknesses and materials, staggered seams, ideally both glued and screwed boards, boards laid overlapping in all seams between floor, wall, and ceiling without touching each other, with acoustic sealant in between... Perhaps making double walls with air gaps in the right places, and so on... quite complicated.
/A
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