Building Materials and Construction Technology
Wasa: Have a serious talk about reasonableness and cost/benefit with your partner. It’s about raising/lowering the wainscoting by about 5 cm. An aesthetic concession that saves a lot of work. Best regards, Wasa
Simpsson: An entrepreneur installed Velux roof windows. Half a year later, I hired another entrepreneur for the job of getting a new roof. This job went through a tinsmith, who in turn hired a carpenter for everything except the metal work. To fit the already existing windows to the new roof (benders concrete tile), the roof windows were raised slightly, new collars and some details were purchased by the
Yrrol: I have floors.. it was parquet/carpets I was thinking about... :)
Wand: Leveling strips otherwise? air gap underneath and the insulation is not against the slab but up against the chipboards
BosseHansson: Probably depends on how you intended with the vangstyckena. I have about 42mm bok in my staircase with the vangstycket in the middle. There might be a picture if you search here on the forum. That staircase feels very steep, I think it's 2.5x2.5m
Niclas Jonsson: If you want it tight against the plastic, you need to fix it before the wallboard is up. Tape generously...
janwide: [citat] I don't think it looks overworked. There are very few cross braces for support both sideways and in depth. In my plan, I imagined having cross braces between each pair of posts. Since your frame was sturdy, maybe I can cut back on my "timber budget" a bit. Did you use C24 graded planks as walking boards? The dream of a self-made wooden frame lives on! d^_^b
jimmyboy_666: I paid 57.46 SEK for the board which is 400x1205, so approximately 2 boards per sqm. So I paid about 118 SEK per sqm. It's a bit more expensive than byggmax but it's also tongue and grooved on the short side so it can be installed in the ceiling.
Maveric77: Have no idea but think it looks like those that stores use to build their interiors? Like checkout counters, shelving systems, display cases, etc. Has there perhaps been a store owner living in the house before?
jerk: I was at the Nordbygg fair and found this. Very nice panels that can be ordered in different veneers if desired. I don't know anything about the price, but it is probably not free. http://www.gustafs.com/panel/akustik__166
bigsnucke: Some glue a strip onto a completely flat piece to create the "edge." Personally, I think it looks nicer/better with a milling/planing from a solid piece (possibly laminated). But then it becomes a bit more difficult to do it yourself, unless you have a workshop at home. Then there are ready-made thresholds to purchase, maybe it’s possible to modify one of those if needed?
Falcula: Hello, We have a house from the early 1900s with a timber frame that we are completely renovating. We will insulate the roof and some walls with linull to avoid using plastic in our house, but the question is whether it is OK to use mineral wool as insulation between interior floors. We have two floors, or should we use linull there as well? I actually have a bunch of rolls of mineral wool lying
Togo: There is a robust rubber strip from Tesa specifically intended for garage doors.
Beppo: The price is capris for all material and all labor from the wind barrier outward.
Johanl80: you get what you pay for..., I have looked at this myself. And it was quite an easy choice for me since skånska doesn't manufacture more than 2 divided panes, doors in my measurements.
fiddex: Between the floor joists or? But maybe a simpler solution is to saw off the sill and place a 22mm plank that will be at the same height as the particle boards in the door opening!? Maybe just an extra nogging in the joist structure... Does anyone know the standard depth of a threshold?
mrbambocha: Nice, will try it. Thanks
Niclas Jonsson: I agree with Magnusss. A cover panel is missing here. Plus, it doesn't need to protrude so much to be even with the door, not according to these pictures at least. 1) Trim at the back so the panel is flush with the doors. 2) Remove the tall cabinet. 3) Install a cover panel, as high as the tall cabinet, that is flush with the doors. The countertop and cover panel should be perfectly flush.
cheetah1: an 8x20 fits in a hole that is 80x200 cm if you have removed the frame and everything and are going to install a new one.
barajag: hello again. There are probably different ways to fix such a thing, spontaneously I would probably put a small square snickarglädjekub, the same as you can put in corners if you don't feel like mitering. / Just me
Yrrol: I don't remember what the engineer said about it, I think I had to take much larger measurements then. The I-beam had the smallest dimensions in relation to its strength... I might be wrong, but he did recommend the I-beam anyway and I don't dare to start changing his calculations, hehe
Gladh: Hello. I have a 1½-story 70s house with concrete tiles and plank roofing with a 45-degree pitch. The trusses are spaced at 1200 mm center-to-center and the floor joists at 600 mm center-to-center. The joists are 210 mm high. In the room, there is a window frame with 3 windows, but previously there were 2 windows and 1 door. This means the upright stud between the window and the door was removed,
Johan Gunverth: Much more attractive with glulam and just as durable if installed correctly. You avoid cracks and it's easy to paint. It is premium spruce wood since it is normally used for load-bearing structures. Far better wood than the cladding panels typically used on houses. Just keep in mind that the end grain should not be wet. A spacer against the surface is good, alternatively tar paper. For the top
Simpsson: It worked perfectly! Cut off the excess and have then plastered the surface and just need to paint the door as well.
J.A: We are going to have a glass railing, 12mm laminated glass, in an opening that is 230cm wide. Ideally, I want the glass to be attached only on each side, without needing any support or post in the middle. Now one glassmaker says that the span is not a problem, while the other 'expert' thinks that there should be support in the middle under this glass pane. Who should one choose to believe?
Löven4ever: Do as usual with the vapor barrier, etc., with the walls that do not adjoin the garage. Remove the vapor barrier, etc., in the wall that adjoins the extension as it becomes like a normal interior wall.
aggen: Ok, thanks :) Tried to figure it out via this link And what you say is correct :) Got this via www.npn.se Width 3265 mm with 30 degree incline and mm eave height gives: Rise is: 1,885.0 mm Width 3265 mm with 35 degree incline and mm eave height gives: Rise is: 2,286.2 mm