Hello.
Why not frame the outer wall with cc1200 and place the insulation horizontally instead of vertically in the sections.
Saves material, weight, and U-value on the wall.
If you are cross-framing both the outside and the inside, you can place these studs close enough for the board material and panel respectively.
In the image, I have drawn cc600 on horizontal 45x45 on the inside and cc800 on horizontal 45x45 on the outside.
What do you think?
Why not frame the outer wall with cc1200 and place the insulation horizontally instead of vertically in the sections.
Saves material, weight, and U-value on the wall.
If you are cross-framing both the outside and the inside, you can place these studs close enough for the board material and panel respectively.
In the image, I have drawn cc600 on horizontal 45x45 on the inside and cc800 on horizontal 45x45 on the outside.
What do you think?
Do you think so?
On the inside, there will be OSB + plasterboard. I can't imagine that a 95mm height on the cross brace adds any extra vertical stiffness compared to a 2500 high OSB board.
But on the outside, there will be vertical paneling, so you won't get the same bending resistance there, as the panels can shift relative to each other. There, it might be a good idea with 45x70 or 95. Or maybe a 45x95 + the rest 45x70, a 45x145 + the rest 45x45, or something like that.
But maybe you mean horizontally, so the insulation doesn't manage to push the wall out in 1.2-meter long "waves." Or that it feels unstable if you push or bump against it?
On the inside, there will be OSB + plasterboard. I can't imagine that a 95mm height on the cross brace adds any extra vertical stiffness compared to a 2500 high OSB board.
But on the outside, there will be vertical paneling, so you won't get the same bending resistance there, as the panels can shift relative to each other. There, it might be a good idea with 45x70 or 95. Or maybe a 45x95 + the rest 45x70, a 45x145 + the rest 45x45, or something like that.
But maybe you mean horizontally, so the insulation doesn't manage to push the wall out in 1.2-meter long "waves." Or that it feels unstable if you push or bump against it?
I see no reason why it wouldn't work. Having cc600 between the studs seems to be an arbitrary measure. But I have the same feeling as mycke_nu, that 45x45 becomes a bit too shaky at 1200mm. I would also have chosen 45x95.
A major reason could be that it has to do with strength. Without calculating it, I wouldn't switch 60 to 120 if I were building a house. It would also be impractical in many other ways. No matter how you look at it, each stud will have to bear twice as much.
Plastering on 45x45 is no problem, you build interior walls with 45x45 that are over 2.4m.
Plastering on 45x45 is no problem, you build interior walls with 45x45 that are over 2.4m.
Interesting Mikael. Laying 45X70 should fix it if nothing else.
No, the load-bearing capacity is not a problem. Even 45x70 could easily carry the entire roof load at cc600, so 45x195 at cc1200 is no problem. A proper bearing line that distributes the forces at the top of the studs is probably good to have, but such a line is often placed in most constructions to allow some freedom with window placements.Linkan222 said:
But there are definitely other aspects to consider. And I was thinking of checking if I missed something essential.
Patent the idea!
There are those who build interior walls with 45x45 studs and double plasterboard or OSB+plasterboard pbs.
I don't have a thorough grasp, but as far as I know, this wall feels sufficiently stable.
Lay this wall down 90°, and you'll have my equivalent to cross battening with 45x45 on standing studs cc1200.
But I have cc1200, interior walls have cc=room height = 2400-2600 approx...
I don't have a thorough grasp, but as far as I know, this wall feels sufficiently stable.
Lay this wall down 90°, and you'll have my equivalent to cross battening with 45x45 on standing studs cc1200.
But I have cc1200, interior walls have cc=room height = 2400-2600 approx...
The downside, as mentioned, is that the bearer beams and load transfers become thicker. And, of course, the requirements for the fixtures for these as well. It also requires that windows and doors are at suitable distances. Otherwise, you're soon back to cc60 again.
But what is the gain? Slightly faster, simpler insulation work and somewhat fewer thermal bridges. Anything else?
But what is the gain? Slightly faster, simpler insulation work and somewhat fewer thermal bridges. Anything else?
Agree that 45x45 on 1200 can become wobbly when, for example, leaning against the wall, and it could also become wavy since a wooden stud in 45x45 is rarely so straight, but perhaps this can be solved with metal studs? But as I said, I don't see any real savings with that either in this context, more waste on the horizontal studs is likely as you might theoretically get 119cm cuts instead of 59cm, but it might even out in the end?
The gains as I see it are:Krawk said:
Fewer thermal bridges. A framed wall consists of approximately 11% studs. By halving the number of standing studs, this percentage is reduced by 4% to 7%. Wood studs insulate 4 times as poorly as MU.
If you have many window holes and doors, you probably won't manage to reduce the percentage of studs at all. But on unbroken wall surfaces, my calculations apply.
I nail the wall together lying on the ground and then raise it. It's nice if it weighs significantly less then.
Cheaper in materials. I save about 125 SEK per running meter of wall, that is, about 5000 SEK for the entire house.
I haven't counted faster and simpler insulation work as an advantage, but there might be some benefit there too.
That's true, 45x45 propeller wood is indeed a problem.Tossegubbe said:
But those who build interior walls with 45x45, how do their walls turn out then? There, the free length of the 45x45 stud is 231-241 cm ..?
I have used 45*45 with cc 1200 on the interior walls in the workshop. Mostly to save materials and from the little I have tested, it is not "noticeably" wobbly. It is sufficient in my case at least. The boards that come outside then stabilize quite a bit too.