Hi!
We have hired craftsmen to renovate our basement. Previously, there were drywall panels directly against the outer walls in one room, and it became damp at the bottom near the floor, but now they have been removed. However, there are no other moisture problems in the basement, and the original plaster from 1957 remains almost everywhere.
To avoid moisture problems in the future, we want the walls to be able to breathe and have therefore asked the craftsmen to plaster the walls and then paint with silicate paint or similar. We are considering Flügger's Facade Impredur, which is a silicone paint that should breathe as well as a silicate paint, but can be tinted in more colors.
The craftsmen now want to use Casco's GipsFiller to plaster/fill the walls instead of gypsum plaster, as we requested. I have read here on the forum that you shouldn't use filler on a basement wall, which makes me a bit worried.
In Casco's product sheet for GipsFiller, it says it is for indoor use, and for surfaces that may be exposed to moisture, HusFix is recommended instead.
Does anyone know if it's okay to use GipsFiller on basement walls that need to breathe? It's a mixture between plaster and filler, if I understand correctly.
Hope someone has an answer.
We have hired craftsmen to renovate our basement. Previously, there were drywall panels directly against the outer walls in one room, and it became damp at the bottom near the floor, but now they have been removed. However, there are no other moisture problems in the basement, and the original plaster from 1957 remains almost everywhere.
To avoid moisture problems in the future, we want the walls to be able to breathe and have therefore asked the craftsmen to plaster the walls and then paint with silicate paint or similar. We are considering Flügger's Facade Impredur, which is a silicone paint that should breathe as well as a silicate paint, but can be tinted in more colors.
The craftsmen now want to use Casco's GipsFiller to plaster/fill the walls instead of gypsum plaster, as we requested. I have read here on the forum that you shouldn't use filler on a basement wall, which makes me a bit worried.
In Casco's product sheet for GipsFiller, it says it is for indoor use, and for surfaces that may be exposed to moisture, HusFix is recommended instead.
Does anyone know if it's okay to use GipsFiller on basement walls that need to breathe? It's a mixture between plaster and filler, if I understand correctly.
Hope someone has an answer.
I have learned that one should preferably avoid plaster entirely on basement walls. That is, plaster mortar should be completely avoided. Check, for example, Maxit for suggestions on suitable products that do not contain plaster.
Yes, most people seem to have that opinion and suggest using lime plaster or similar instead. But both on the forum and when talking to some professionals, there is some support for giåsputsen and its advantages.
Finja's gypsum plaster is, for example, completely inorganic and can both absorb and release moisture, while also being suitable for use on most surfaces. And if I understand correctly, it's relatively easy to work with and can achieve a fairly smooth wall.
I can't see what the issues would be with using gypsum plaster on a relatively dry basement wall.
However, I'm a bit uncertain about Gypsum filler since it's not pure gypsum but a mixture of gypsum and filler, and as I've tried to read from the forum, one shouldn't use filler in a basement.
Finja's gypsum plaster is, for example, completely inorganic and can both absorb and release moisture, while also being suitable for use on most surfaces. And if I understand correctly, it's relatively easy to work with and can achieve a fairly smooth wall.
I can't see what the issues would be with using gypsum plaster on a relatively dry basement wall.
However, I'm a bit uncertain about Gypsum filler since it's not pure gypsum but a mixture of gypsum and filler, and as I've tried to read from the forum, one shouldn't use filler in a basement.
why not use the same plaster that is already on the walls? Finja has KC plasters that are likely on your old walls. The range includes coarse plaster for filling large holes and finer plaster with smaller sand grains that provide a smooth finish. If your walls are unpainted, you might be looking for materials that dry quickly and can be painted over in a flash? KC plaster requires waiting time - needs to dry for 28 days according to Finja.
Gypsum plaster is unsuitable as it withstands moisture as poorly as a drywall that suffered water damage at your place. Gypsum filler sounds like a product to fill/repair drywall with ...?
Shortcuts save time but I am very doubtful about durability
gaia
Gypsum plaster is unsuitable as it withstands moisture as poorly as a drywall that suffered water damage at your place. Gypsum filler sounds like a product to fill/repair drywall with ...?
Shortcuts save time but I am very doubtful about durability
gaia
Fairly dry is not dry enough for gypsum. Gypsum cannot withstand constant moisture migration through it and will crumble much faster than other inorganic plasters, and it is also denser than your old plaster.therese77 said:
Right now, you have fairly harmless moisture migration, but that changes for the worse when gypsum is applied on top. You choose how you want it, but don't be surprised if the information about gypsum's properties does not apply to basement walls. Best to call the manufacturer and ask a specific question about whether it works in a basement.
gaia
gaia
Thanks for all the valuable tips and comments! It feels great to have the forum so you can get various viewpoints.
Spoke with one of Finja's contact persons for dry mortar yesterday and asked about gypsum plaster in the basement, and according to him it should work. Naturally, with reservations since it depends on the basement, but as I described it, there are no direct signs of moisture today, so it shouldn't be a problem. According to Finja, the gypsum plaster should be able to absorb and release moisture.
I also went to K-Rauta today and asked, and their recommendation was gypsum plaster when they saw a piece of the wall I had brought with me. They advised against gypsum filler, so we won't be using that anyway.
Does it matter that there's only a thin layer of gypsum plaster between the existing wall and the new paint? I thought that the thicker the layer of gypsum plaster, the worse the potential for moisture migration.
It's difficult with basements since opinions are so divided on what works or not. It feels like basements, in particular, have such divided opinions.
I'll sleep on it and hope to wake up with the ultimate solution!
Will call Finja and Maxit (now Weber) on Monday to ask them which of their products they think would work.
Spoke with one of Finja's contact persons for dry mortar yesterday and asked about gypsum plaster in the basement, and according to him it should work. Naturally, with reservations since it depends on the basement, but as I described it, there are no direct signs of moisture today, so it shouldn't be a problem. According to Finja, the gypsum plaster should be able to absorb and release moisture.
I also went to K-Rauta today and asked, and their recommendation was gypsum plaster when they saw a piece of the wall I had brought with me. They advised against gypsum filler, so we won't be using that anyway.
Does it matter that there's only a thin layer of gypsum plaster between the existing wall and the new paint? I thought that the thicker the layer of gypsum plaster, the worse the potential for moisture migration.
It's difficult with basements since opinions are so divided on what works or not. It feels like basements, in particular, have such divided opinions.
I'll sleep on it and hope to wake up with the ultimate solution!
Will call Finja and Maxit (now Weber) on Monday to ask them which of their products they think would work.
. 
When you contact Finja and Maxit, you should probably mention that there has been moisture in the nederkat when plasterboards were placed on the wall, not just say that there are no direct signs of moisture. Clear and precise probably pays off.
The condition outside the basement wall is not static but will vary over time, and it is good to have margins.
The condition outside the basement wall is not static but will vary over time, and it is good to have margins.
I have now talked to Finja, Maxit (Weber is their name now), and the staff at K-rauta's store in Kungens Kurva, Stockholm, and even though there are slightly different opinions on what is best, they all say that it should work with gypsum plaster.
Our craftsmen have thus been ordered to scrape/repair previous paint that was on certain parts of the basement walls before, which they have done. They have also removed all the old paint in some places and have now started plastering with gypsum.
So, it's just a matter of keeping our fingers crossed and hoping....
A new little concern that has arisen instead is that on the incoming cold water pipes, which have now been boxed in, condensation is forming. This problem we've never had before, and the question is how much of it is due to the boxing in and how much is because we are not running our air/heat exchanger in the basement during the renovation period. Plus, we're adding moisture from plastering and floor leveling.
I've insulated some of the pipes now, but it's not possible to succeed in insulating everything. We will also install air grilles in the boxing to increase air circulation. Hope that's enough! Don't want moisture problems in these boxes going forward.
Anyone have any tips?
Our craftsmen have thus been ordered to scrape/repair previous paint that was on certain parts of the basement walls before, which they have done. They have also removed all the old paint in some places and have now started plastering with gypsum.
So, it's just a matter of keeping our fingers crossed and hoping....
A new little concern that has arisen instead is that on the incoming cold water pipes, which have now been boxed in, condensation is forming. This problem we've never had before, and the question is how much of it is due to the boxing in and how much is because we are not running our air/heat exchanger in the basement during the renovation period. Plus, we're adding moisture from plastering and floor leveling.
I've insulated some of the pipes now, but it's not possible to succeed in insulating everything. We will also install air grilles in the boxing to increase air circulation. Hope that's enough! Don't want moisture problems in these boxes going forward.
Anyone have any tips?
Homeowner
· Västernorrland
· 2 538 posts
Interesting thread. I am in the process of refining walls in a basement myself. I have removed a type of open brown grid textile. I assume it is the glue that creates the grid pattern on the walls; I have tried scraping with a putty knife, but only the loose parts come off. I wonder if some type of solvent could be used?? Then I use husfix for the larger irregularities.
Homeowner
· Västernorrland
· 2 538 posts
bumping this thread!
No one who could answer my question??
No one who could answer my question??
Mattias
I don’t know what type of weave it is, but I read the following in vi i villa.
apply a layer of wallpaper paste and then attach plastic film on top of the wallpaper. Leave a substantial piece of the plastic against the ceiling that you can grab and pull. First, ensure that the wallpaper paste has dried properly. This usually takes at least 3 hours. The advantage is that because it takes so long, the wallpaper paste thoroughly moistens the woven wallpaper.
Plastic films adhere to the woven wallpaper, which then comes off with it.
Either way, water seems to be a good agent for dissolving the glue.
Otherwise, you might as well rent a milling machine.
I don’t know what type of weave it is, but I read the following in vi i villa.
apply a layer of wallpaper paste and then attach plastic film on top of the wallpaper. Leave a substantial piece of the plastic against the ceiling that you can grab and pull. First, ensure that the wallpaper paste has dried properly. This usually takes at least 3 hours. The advantage is that because it takes so long, the wallpaper paste thoroughly moistens the woven wallpaper.
Plastic films adhere to the woven wallpaper, which then comes off with it.
Either way, water seems to be a good agent for dissolving the glue.
Otherwise, you might as well rent a milling machine.
Homeowner
· Västernorrland
· 2 538 posts
The fabric itself I can remove easily, but since it is glued on and I have a small thin grid pattern left, it should be glue. But it's probably as you say. Maybe I can use a sander with very coarse sandpaper, I only need to do it towards the outer wall. The question then is how I should achieve a smooth surface or if it's enough to paint with a plaster/silicate paint and hope that it fills somewhat.