Decorating upstairs. Collection thread.

[BigGitt]

Hello.

Here I'm trying to start a collection thread for everyone who wants to decorate an upper floor.
Contribute with information as well as links. Also within Byggahus.se

It's so difficult to find the right information.

PLEASE Moderator. Could you at least temporarily, pin this thread?

 

[BigGitt]

My friend is going to insulate an upstairs in an Älvsbyhus. He was so damn mad. The trusses are made in 45x145 and that might be okay. But how the hell are you supposed to build an air gap and then insulate them if the c/c distance is between 1250 and 1350 mm???

In the house binder, it states that the distance should be 1200. But now he has to cut masonite widthwise and will have about 45% waste! And he also has to insulate with loose fill. Sheets are out of the question.

Or do you have other suggestions?

P.S. if building new. Do you have the right to request that the trusses are installed with standard C/C distance?

EDIT.
Here I will add some links about these specific problems

http://www.byggahus.se/forum/byggmaterial-byggteknik/forum/isoleri...elvsbyhus.html

 

[mycke_nu]

Your friend should check out an old house... here the rafters are at different distances, 128-134 cm, crooked AND sloping. Furthermore, the timber is crooked, infested, and the dimensions vary.

Just have to accept it and measure and cut every piece!

 

[BigGitt]

Ok.

But how would you mount 2 times 45x95? Nail?
Plate?
Or screw?

Personally (I'm not a builder) I might have opted for long screws like 6x140 with c/c 500mm. Or should one go with regular 6-inch nails?

Like this, for example?

 

[mycke_nu]

I would have replaced the inner rule with blocks at regular intervals to save timber, and screw instead of nail.

Then you have to check that the trusses are really straight (they probably aren't), otherwise you'll have to pad in between where needed.

An alternative can be to take 220x45 and screw these to the side of each truss leg with a 190 mm overhang. Then it's much easier to get the roof straight.

 

[BigGitt]

OK.

You mean that you would build on the first and last truss. Then stretch a building line (or whatever it's called) and then build on the other trusses?

What distance did you use between the blocks? 500 mm? It's probably not a bad tip at all with blocks considering that thermal bridges can be minimized when spraying insulation.

Edit. Considering the air gap and those trusses at 1300mm distance. Instead of 45x45, can you nail 45x70 to the trusses? Then it would be 1300 minus 140 = 1160mm that can be covered with masonite board. Otherwise, it will be a hell of a lot of cutting and a lot of waste. I wonder if you understand what I mean.

 

[hokanp]

Just went through the same thing. However, our house was built in 1962 with cc between 900 -1050. I had inserted masonite between existing rafters. Then 45*45 horizontally to finish with a standing 45*45. Just using 45*145 results in too little insulation. There's a lot of cutting and patching, but you avoid thermal bridges with these 2 extra 45*45, and you then get cc600 between them.

 

[BigGitt]

I will try to insert some links that may be relevant

http://www.byggahus.se/forum/isolering/139432-loesull-eller-skivor-vad-billigare.html

http://www.byggahus.se/forum/loesvirke-timmerhus/137771-170-istaellet-foer-195-isolering.html

http://alvsbyhus.forum24.se/alvsbyhus-about2842.html&sid=5c180feb98733d68da5dd0b053a3a878

http://alvsbyhus.forum24.se/alvsbyhus-about2772.html

 

[BigGitt]

Found a very good link

www.hoij.se/cpg