Building Materials and Construction Technology
Crickster: Thank you. Yes, it is a murstok and yes there is a basement. There is a matching wall underneath.
Krawk: It is likely a thermal bridge in that corner where dirt sticks (thermodiffusion - particles are attracted to cold surfaces, i.e., the studs and especially the nails). It's difficult to do anything about it without changing the construction, i.e., breaking the thermal bridge. However, this is not an indication of moisture in the construction.
Minimalisten: Now it has burst beautifully! Good things come to those who wait... :)
torparkillen: Thank you for all the answers. It's just that you want it to last for a while. What is being built is not "just" a well cover but can be described more as a small wooden deck, like a mini patio with the wooden cover in the middle, the pump right next to the well cover sticking up from the wooden surface. It's terribly rotten now and with both children and animals on the farm, you want to avoid it
barajag: If you only need a wall to cover the existing wall without any other requirements, follow the existing wall with the passport; the point that is "furthest in" the house is your guideline. Attach a floor plate about ten/twenty millimeters further into the house and level up with a standing stud, then attach the top plate to the ceiling. Then you'll have two tracks you can frame however you want.
MathiasS: [citat] You should follow the manufacturer's instructions: http://www.premodul.se/filer/iav_Premodul_se.pdf On page 5 it explains what you should do. I talked to the local chimney sweep master about the rules the other day. The response was that if you follow the instructions to the letter (for premodul in this case), it will be correct. During an inspection, they look at whether the instructions
magnu: Uncured foam sealant can be washed away with acetone. It can be washed out of the tube and also the top of the can where the nozzle should connect. I believe it was acetone, in any case, it says on the can which solvent removes uncured foam sealant.
morsan: I am moving the thread to Building Materials & Construction Technology. If you search for brick wall here in the forum, you will find several previous threads.
linkan77: I'm freshening up the staircase and would like to do something about the stump (see picture). When you stand in the hallway, it almost looks like there's a hole in the floor :( The wall and stair railing were previously brown, but we've painted them white as you can see in the picture. I had some black paint left over, so I tested painting the handrail and railing black. The girlfriend thinks it
saturnus: Thanks for the input, I hadn't counted on any advanced method for this small job, it's about 4 corners. That's why I jokingly wondered if there were any shadow strips in rubber, but maybe some semi-finished product can be found. Many strips are available in plastic, but I haven't seen shadow strips. I have no knowledge of bending a regular shadow strip, it's a relatively small radius, plus the
Tossegubbe: Are you going to have a diameter as small as a water pipe? 15mm type? If so, you can insert a solid 12mm round bar inside a chrome pipe, making it easy to bend without creases and adding some stability..
Totte_S: Planning to build a balcony. I'm thinking of using 90*90 posts and a 90*225 glulam beam as the main beam. The span will be between 3500-4000 on the main beam. When building something like a deck, it's nice to use the posts as railing posts, but when it comes to glulam, it seems most appropriate to create the support as I’ve drawn in the attached sketch, i.e., use the maximum available support
lajsiiwan: You should always roll out a foam roller like this. If you want extra sound insulation, there is http://www.emballageteknik.com/stepisol.asp
Jan-Å: I used Fischerplugg specifically for lightweight concrete, didn't want to take any chances when mounting the flat-screen TV on the wall.
Yrrol: Wooden beam: 90x70 Opening: 2.3 meters Don't have the energy to write all the formulas but "R = 13 kN" "Md = 7 kNm" According to a sketch, the width of the house is divided by 36 & 41 but I don't remember what the numbers stand for. I-beam... * IPE 140 s275 can handle 20 kNm; the metal seller today had an s355 that could handle more. * IPE 120 s355 can handle 18 kNm. The weight of the metal beam
kalubah: You have to be very careful to get all the drill dust out of the drill hole and they are not exactly world-class from an environmental perspective, but if it's a very porous wall, I think you can go with it.
Bödde: For various reasons, there ended up being a gap of just over 3 cm between the newly cast slab in the extension and the old slab. My idea was to insulate the gap with insulating foam (or whatever it's called) to avoid a thermal bridge. Do you think it's a good idea or is there some other better material to insulate with?
sled: [citat] Thanks, that sounds very good.. ;) Maybe I've worried a bit unnecessarily but I'm not so much for glue. Thanks for all the comments :)
bumpaberra: Have the same problem. Apparently, you should only use natural stone oil. No cleaning agents can be used. Will probably replace that sink with a porcelain one eventually.
sled: Another option is to use a "re-setter," which is like a thicker fabric that you glue to the wall. It eliminates irregularities and gives you a smooth surface. Personally, I would try to remove as much of the wallpaper as possible. After removing the worst of it, you can use a spray bottle with water and spray the wall... have some coffee and then go over the wall with a scraper... this usually
Roundup: Remove loose render around the hole in the chimney wall and on the soot hatch. Mix masonry mortar C (available in ready-made bags at the hardware store where you only add water), but be sparing with the water so that the mortar becomes sticky and moldable instead of runny. Dampen the area you are repairing with a coarse brush, sponge, or similar. Apply enough render so you can finally press the
C Halle: :) Just finished installing drainage and water pipes in the floor structure (upstairs) for the new bathroom. Planning to have waterborne underfloor heating, so here's the question: I'm going to lay chipboard, frame for the underfloor heating pipe, metal plate, pipe, plaster, etc... Should I use any special chipboard or can I use the same as the rest of the upstairs?? Want to do it right from the
Farzan: [citat] Yes, I've only screwed floor gips once (one room) and that's exactly how I experienced it. Floor gips is very hard so it takes a bit of force to get the screw in. Now, I initially had (eh, I blame the guy in the store..?) the wrong screw, namely one intended for "robust gips." It was tough to screw and many broke right under the head when trying to get them in. With screws intended for
injonil: Thanks for the input! Since it doesn't seem entirely obvious that the wall would self-supportingly handle the load from roof trusses and floor joists, I will probably choose to put in a glulam beam anyway.
FarsanSeger: Currently pondering stairs. Throw out the old, steep staircase and put in a new one in a different place in the house. May I ask what it cost you? Just roughly speaking :-)
snickarinnan: Thanks for the reply. I now feel at ease to continue tearing down the wall. When you own an old house, you constantly learn new things.
santos: Have done the same thing at home and used expanderbetong so it becomes a little stronger iafl.
J.A: The thing is that the staircase shouldn't just work for me. We have several family members of different ages and heights, and it's important to find something sensible for everyone. We definitely have the space for this staircase, so we are in no way helped by a shorter version. It’s all about comfort. But 185mm step height doesn't seem high to me at all. We have 200mm in the basement