I searched on Google and various forums but haven't gotten an exact answer... It started with me planning to repaint the house, but then I realized I should add insulation and install new siding, as the previous owner sanded the panel with a sander!!??!! But then I ordered new windows, doors for the entire house also at the same time... But what do I do now? Some say you should have a wind barrier against the old panel first, then studs, insulation, wind barrier, battens, panel... Some say you shouldn't have anything against the old panel, just install the studs directly, another one says you shouldn't use a wind barrier but "windy" (what is that??) against the old panel and then studs and all that...?? Seems like there are a lot of ways, depending on where you ask... How would you have done it????
Next question, if you're going to move the windows out, is it just a matter of placing the frame further out in the new frame around the windows and then building a return inside, or is something special required to keep the windows in place??
Next, painting the panel... it's supposed to be an oil stain from Caparol... should you prime with oil even on the backside, then primer on the front and back, then the topcoat on the front, or what do you do for the best protection, durability?? (I've also heard different things here, some say you shouldn't have anything on the back, but oil can't hurt anyway..?)
Ps. the old facade that needs to stay is similar to a "basic panel from byggmax" and is not one where you can remove the cover batten from, and the paint is something like plastic paint and is really dense... I'm afraid it might become too tight if you cover it with paper..??
Thank you for any answers...
Best regards// Mange
Next question, if you're going to move the windows out, is it just a matter of placing the frame further out in the new frame around the windows and then building a return inside, or is something special required to keep the windows in place??
Next, painting the panel... it's supposed to be an oil stain from Caparol... should you prime with oil even on the backside, then primer on the front and back, then the topcoat on the front, or what do you do for the best protection, durability?? (I've also heard different things here, some say you shouldn't have anything on the back, but oil can't hurt anyway..?)
Ps. the old facade that needs to stay is similar to a "basic panel from byggmax" and is not one where you can remove the cover batten from, and the paint is something like plastic paint and is really dense... I'm afraid it might become too tight if you cover it with paper..??
Thank you for any answers...
Best regards// Mange
The principle for an exterior wall is (from the outside in): surface layer, air gap, wind barrier, insulation, vapor barrier, interior surface layer.
The air gap also serves as drainage for water that may leak through the surface layer. The water should then be able to flow out 'down there.' Simultaneously, air should be taken in from the bottom edge and due to thermodynamic effects rise upward in the air gap and find its way out 'up there.'
To prevent wind movements from disturbing the insulation (it is not the insulating material that insulates, but the still air within the insulating material that insulates because air is a poor heat conductor), there should be a wind barrier as close to the air gap as possible. You should not install wind protection paper on the old façade but attach directly on it, then insulate and afterward install wind protection (which must not be vapor tight) closest to the new air gap.
Regarding moving the windows, you should have them recessed about 5 cm from the façade. This allows for reveals on both the outside and inside. And of course, the new windows must be installed in such a way that they have anchorage in the reveal. You will therefore likely need to break away the current reveals on the inside and 'clad' the new windows with 12 mm K-plywood that is as wide as the measurement from the outer recess to the inside wall and then insert the whole package into the window opening and attach the plywood to the current framing. This way, you get a tight fit and simple fastening.
The sensitive point for window and door frames is their back side, especially in stone houses. If you seal from the inside with elastic sealant, you reduce the risk of warm and humid room air condensing between the frame and wall, causing mold problems and rot damage. From the outside, seal with foam.
Therefore, prime the back of the frames with primer and also preferably coat them with finish paint on the back. Oiling does not replace either of these two components.
As long as you do not clad the outside with any vapor-tight material, you do not need to worry that it will become too tight. But that is not where the wind barrier should be.
______________________
The Builder
The air gap also serves as drainage for water that may leak through the surface layer. The water should then be able to flow out 'down there.' Simultaneously, air should be taken in from the bottom edge and due to thermodynamic effects rise upward in the air gap and find its way out 'up there.'
To prevent wind movements from disturbing the insulation (it is not the insulating material that insulates, but the still air within the insulating material that insulates because air is a poor heat conductor), there should be a wind barrier as close to the air gap as possible. You should not install wind protection paper on the old façade but attach directly on it, then insulate and afterward install wind protection (which must not be vapor tight) closest to the new air gap.
Regarding moving the windows, you should have them recessed about 5 cm from the façade. This allows for reveals on both the outside and inside. And of course, the new windows must be installed in such a way that they have anchorage in the reveal. You will therefore likely need to break away the current reveals on the inside and 'clad' the new windows with 12 mm K-plywood that is as wide as the measurement from the outer recess to the inside wall and then insert the whole package into the window opening and attach the plywood to the current framing. This way, you get a tight fit and simple fastening.
The sensitive point for window and door frames is their back side, especially in stone houses. If you seal from the inside with elastic sealant, you reduce the risk of warm and humid room air condensing between the frame and wall, causing mold problems and rot damage. From the outside, seal with foam.
Therefore, prime the back of the frames with primer and also preferably coat them with finish paint on the back. Oiling does not replace either of these two components.
As long as you do not clad the outside with any vapor-tight material, you do not need to worry that it will become too tight. But that is not where the wind barrier should be.
______________________
The Builder
Diff.spärr is a vapor-tight foil, usually made of plastic, closest to the room side. Water should not, under the influence of thermodynamics (in vapor form), be able to pass through it and cause moisture damage inside the wall when the vapor diffuses through the wall towards the colder side.salestam said:
__________________
Builder
Thank you for the tips.
I have a plastered brick house and need to add insulation.
So you should paint the backside of the windows (the part of the windows that faces the gap between the window and the wall).
Should you use regular acrylic sealant on the inside?
Do you have any additional tips on how to add insulation to my plastered 2-story brick villa?
I need to move the windows out to avoid having too deep reveals on the outside. I'm considering building a new frame for the windows with studs on the outside. I've concluded that a reveal over 150 mm on the exterior side looks aesthetically wrong, or what do you think?
Thanks for the tips
I have a plastered brick house and need to add insulation.
So you should paint the backside of the windows (the part of the windows that faces the gap between the window and the wall).
Should you use regular acrylic sealant on the inside?
Do you have any additional tips on how to add insulation to my plastered 2-story brick villa?
I need to move the windows out to avoid having too deep reveals on the outside. I'm considering building a new frame for the windows with studs on the outside. I've concluded that a reveal over 150 mm on the exterior side looks aesthetically wrong, or what do you think?
Thanks for the tips