Building Materials and Construction Technology
nikke: Then I have talked to a carpenter, he had pretty much the same idea as I wrote earlier... so that's how it will be...
Hoppis: Thinking of building a new patio roof in plastic. Rafters about 4m and a front beam of 5m. Preferably only three posts, i.e., 2.5m between the posts. Is a construction lumber beam 45x225 enough for the beam? What spacing and size for the rafters would be sufficient? I was thinking of placing 45x45 across the rafters and then some cheap plastic roof from Byggmax. Snow zone 2
Mats: 239 is no problem in ceiling height. However, if you go lower, it starts getting tricky with wardrobes for example. They are often around 2.36 high (if you want a ceiling trim, you have to run it around the wardrobes in such cases though).
AXS: Make sure to drill with a better drill to avoid making a large hole. Tape can help. Drill deep and fill with assembly adhesive using a caulking gun or whatever you have at home (If it's not going to bear a lot of weight, it doesn't matter much). Insert a plug that fits the depth. Screw in the screw.
MathiasS: Lightweight concrete - do you mean siporex? If so, it's excellent for sawing.
imported_jo: Not a big fan of Byggmax el cheapy. But some things are quite okay. The OSB boards are the same kind as Beijer's, etc., and are a bit cheaper at Byggmax, so why not? But the insulation is probably the worst they have. Ursa insulation is pure junk, barely holds together and has uneven thickness, barely cuts... it mostly makes you angry working with it. I use Roxull instead, a bit more expensive
macq: but I'm wondering about an answer to my question :D can I do as I planned with the wooden studs? Possibly, maybe you can plastic coat the ends of the wooden studs that are closest to the floor? as I understand it, it's only wood that lies directly against the concrete that absorbs water... or have I misunderstood everything?
mikfri: Aha! That's exactly what I sketched for my blacksmith. Thanks for the tip! The roof should be pyramid-shaped, no cones. So that's perfect. I have, however, sketched a solution with a pointed "oktagonbalk" of wood in the middle, which locks with domino at the ends of the beams. Then I thought of locking everything with an octagonally cut plate that I can angle into the beams and set straight up
MaZtoR: http://www.jamtgarsgard.se/gardsgardar_-_standard~34.php?refpage=2 There's some nice info there.
Stenper: Hello we are in the process of building a house with cast-in-place concrete. Yesterday, the roof slab was cast, and now I need to work to make the house weatherproof! On the entire (low-sloping) roof, we will have a roof terrace, and to have something to insulate against and fold up the waterproof layer against, I plan to build a wall about 1m high made of 200mm Leca along the entire outer edge
evoline: Because, sometimes you only need to drill a single hole, and you happen to hit rebar, you don't feel like bringing out the hammer drill, was wondering if there's another way when using the screwdriver/impact drill. Ok, so all yellow plugs are not the same, in other words.
Crebel: On the gable it will be necessary to splice the asfaboard vertically, should cross battens and a batten along the sloped roof then be installed to nail the short sides against? I haven't seen this on other construction drawings, but I think the asfaboard seems a bit too soft to have a loose edge. Even if you splice the cross joint with wind-proofing paper and asphalt adhesive as I read in a
injonil: That wasn't very fun! You could drill larger holes, maybe 20mm, which you then cast again and afterwards drill and tighten with an expansion bolt. It might also be possible to cast in a threaded rod with a nut instead, but remember it should be galvanized in that case.
Gabbe1: Regardless of where you buy it, it weighs over 600kg so some kind of crane is probably good to have. I bought my balk from the local welding company.
Rrrrr: The normal thing is probably to remove the carpet. But if you have underfloor heating cable that is approved for direct contact with combustible material, it's fine to lay it against the carpet! (Sometimes the floor layer places a carpet as a waterproof layer, then heating cable + screed + tiles) Remember that electric underfloor heating must always be protected by an RCD, and it must also be
kullen01: I have a balcony that is also the roof over part of the house. Previously, there was an old thick 'asphalt mat', under that tiles, and beneath that a concrete slab. I have now removed the mat which was hard with cracks in it. It turned out that the tiles underneath were also bad and in some cases loose due to moisture seeping in. In some places, the concrete was also damp when the tiles were
kalubah: Installed a massive untreated pine floor, and naturally, it has gotten some dents from dropped tools, etc. Tried to pour a splash of water on the damages, hoping the wood would rise a bit, but haven't seen much result so far. Does anyone know how long it needs to stay wet? Any other tips?
BigGitt: If you have pre-made roof trusses to be blown, the order is as follows: 1. Create an air gap closest to the roof. Depending on the choice of material, it should be between 25-45 mm. 2. Possibly ventilation + drainage + pull electricity + water + heating 3. plastic 4. sparse 5. pull electricity + possibly water to the toilet 6. blow insulation 7. panel It is sometimes difficult to pull the
cederbusch: Why not raw tongue and groove + plasterboard?! If you have to choose one of the two lesser options, OSB should be better = less glue to hold the material together. Plywood is even better and the best is pure wood and plasterboard. If you don't want to work with wood at all, plasterboard + plasterboard is best.
Stenper: No knowledgeable person who can help me? Maybe someone knows of a table that provides the allowable vertical load for different square profiles? Thanks in advance Stenper
cederbusch: Can give a little report from the weekend's escapades (fiascos?) We bought concrete (Maxit/Weber), mixed according to the recipe plus a bit of extra water. Poured it into the "mold" and started smoothing it out. It became a robust slab with a lot of charm. But honestly, quite a few flaws are usually excused by saying it adds to the charm. :) I don't know what went wrong; we probably should have
mvs: Considering that the terrace will be 350 cm wide, maybe three posts are needed. What do you think about that? And how thick should the posts be? Is 120mm x 120mm suitable or is it excessive?
D09: a long straight plank to lean against did the trick also to get a straight edge =)
antnor: If the superstructure is made of wood, it can be solved with a standard basement floor as described on the träguiden http://www.traguiden.se/TGtemplates/popup2spalt.aspx?id=4859&contextPage=5946
Bror: The spruce's branches are often small and round, the pine's are often slightly elongated. Newly sawn or planed, the spruce is lighter. You can also use your nose and smell a freshly sawn surface, there is a clear difference in scent between spruce and pine.
putte82: Hello! I'm trying to figure out how to attach the styrofoam to the facade of my house. What I'm considering are long nails/screws with a large washer. But I'm a bit skeptical about how it would attach. The nails that came with the Platon mat didn't hold very well, in any case. Gluing might work better, but then it has to be held in place, and it's quite cumbersome and time-consuming. There are