Building Materials and Construction Technology
para: Well, I have 220cm to the bottom of the beam, and it would take a lot for someone to hit their head there.
Great: Hello! I am building a shed/storage 6*5 meters, and on the long sides, I am placing 4 foundation blocks. Now the question is, in half of this shed, I will have a room that is 3*5 in the middle; there I need to place 1 or 2 foundation blocks. The span will be 2.5 meters. Can I increase the size of the timber, or should I place 2 foundation blocks in between?
Bugster: Hi, Once again one of those questions about whether a wall is load-bearing or not... We moved into a house from the '60s earlier this year. Between our bedroom and the room we plan to use as a dining room, there is a wall with built-in wardrobes. My question now is; can the walls "behind" the wardrobes be load-bearing, or can I safely demolish them? My plan is to take down the wall towards the
Matti_75: I would not demolish without shoring up the ceiling and then reinforcing with, for example, a glulam beam. Those walls that go across the rafters support the ceiling.
mini_cooper_s: I have received a proposal from a company that sells used beams (he didn't do any calculations but relied on experience): 7m Beam: HEA 160 (160mm H beam) Posts 3x 2.6m: 90x90x3.6 Price: 6:-/kg i.e. 1276:- for the beam and 521:- for the posts totaling approx 1800:- To my ears, both the dimensions and price sound okay, what do you think?
KexChock: Good afternoon! I'm in the middle of building a playhouse/shed and have a few questions you might be able to help me with. The Floor On the pressure-treated wood, I have laid 21mm tongue-and-groove and on that, I want something nicer and easier to maintain for the floor (vinyl or some cheap laminate flooring). 1. Is there anything I need to do before placing the carpet/flooring? 2. I found a
nhn: I continue with another question on the same thread. When tiling black mosaic with black grout that meets white tiles, how do you handle grouting when black grout meets a white grout? Best regards, Nicke
FredrikR: If I remember correctly, I used 10 of them (2 per side). This was among the first I crafted, so it probably wasn't constructed as cleverly as it could have been. ;) I built the platform out, it stands on 2 concrete pillars. Then I checked how many steps the stringers should/could have. After that, I made a 'sill' that was leveled on stones around the bottom where the stringers rest against. Then
Jan-Å: Concrete hollow block probably, with plaster on the outside. It's easy to nail into plaster, difficult in concrete. The hole you have beforehand is drilled in that case, and the air gap is the inside of the concrete hollow block. I would nail into the floor baseboard or use shorter nails and nail into the plaster, but it works better in the baseboard. Otherwise, you'll probably have to drill
James2007: Hello, I'm in the process of renovating my apartment from 1938. Right now, I want to move a cast iron drain pipe that runs from the sink into a closet where it connects to the stack. The pipe needs to be moved about 20-25 cm so that it runs along a wall, creating space for a sink. See Image 0 for an illustration of what I want to do. Image 1 shows how the pipe is currently routed. I have a few
M_Persson: Hello. I recently bought a house that has a concrete porch over the entrance to the house. Now, bits have started to come off and it has generally become unattractive. (this is because I only have a roof over half of the porch) But now the question is, what material should I use to repair it? I've thought about taking a hammer to knock off all the loose material, then applying a primer before
Frigge: okay I have one that is 17l so it should work.. I'll go buy a couple more since I'm going shopping for primer and spackel tomorrow anyway
Tomas J: Foolishly, I forgot to mention that if I were to use horizontal panels on the shed, I would plan to buy the same kind that is on the house, not use lådvirke. So if I use fjällpanel and nail directly onto the studs, they should be good enough for bracing? Then I don't quite understand how I could put gypsum/asfaboard on the wood shed part, it must be built so that air can blow straight through
Anna-Sara: [citat] About 80% of the room is between our house and the neighbor's house. This means there is already insulation on those sides, and the only place where the cold can come in is the area with cladding panels, visible in the picture. Inside the room, we plan to install a radiator connected to the district heating we already have in the rest of the house, and we're planning to place it as close
Forshaga: I need some expert help/advice, I have built a log house on an existing poured one-story foundation from the early 1900s. Outside the foundation, we have put up foam insulation and I simply wonder what or how I should clad the foundation; it is 6 meters between the corners and nothing but foam insulation in between? In other words, if I am going to clad with horizontal wood, how can I attach them
Anna_H: I find it very hard to imagine that the horizontal boards can be load-bearing? The vertical ones, on the other hand, could be. But a carpenter can answer that very easily.
prototypen: Wood wedges to give it some tension and then fill with mortar. Protte
Mikael_L: but 25x50 is not more expensive than 22x45, right? It's the same slat, one planed and the other not. And I recommend this one (or possibly 28x70) even with an extra slat underneath, choosing a sturdier one was just considering the weight of the facade and that it is easier to nail into. Then there’s no need to put any masonite strips at all, after all, we're talking about a wall only 95 mm
bosse13: Hello. I am going to repair the plaster on the chimney, and I plan to remove all the loose plaster and replace it with new plaster. But what about plaster that sounds "hollow" when you tap on it? Can this stay if it's firmly attached? I was thinking of using gypsum plaster for this. Regards, B
khgr: Have an Egna hems house built in 1932 where we have removed old plaster in the bathroom/laundry room in the basement. The basement was drained about 10 years ago, and there are no visible moisture problems at present. Would like to tile the space, but the walls are now very uneven. What is the best substrate to get an even surface for tiling? The alternative is to plaster. What type of plaster
fredand44: Thank you for a very good answer!! Regards Fredrik
DeepCore: I'm going to replace windows and have tried to read up on it, but you can never get too many tips. What should I consider? I'm going to install white aluminum-clad windows from Skånska Byggvaror and have received a tip about something called adjufix. Foam or insulation? Vents in the windows? Grateful for any tips!
FemTummar: OK, sounds reasonable. Thanks for the tips!
trojlee: I don't know if I'm right now, but last time I read the regulations, I don't think the 5cm rule applied to a laundry room... isn't it applicable if you have a water heater of X liters and then the volume of the heater should be calculated on the square meter area in the room, so that if it leaks, it should be "sealed" up to that level on the wall, meaning it can be higher than 5cm if you have a
ingemar_o: if you are going to use a motorkap make sure to include the water connection, when water is used, it hardly produces any dust