Building Materials and Construction Technology
Djangos: Ah, 15 centimeters it should obviously be. Apparently, I'm not only colorblind... Outside there's gravel, and I would probably say that it looks fairly smooth.
aolsson71: no insulation.. thanks for the answer! Can you nail the pine floor onto oil-hardened board
Ola78: I would probably have done like you, used 2 9mm plasterboards or even better first a 9 mm plywood and then 9 mm plasterboard, then you have a bit better material behind when you are nailing.
MathiasS: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/byggmaterial-byggteknik/40547-miniprojekt-hal-i-baerande-vaegg-bilder.html Unfortunately, some forum conversion has messed up the image links, but the images are still on the web server so you can copy and paste them yourself.
Tokv41: I was unclear... It's her we are after... Ideally, we would like to top-mount or flush-mount it... But the question is if it's possible to remove all the glue and laminate from the edge...
Milkshaken: A small rule is that if the other walls are the same in construction, the new ones should be too. That is, if the others have a standard frame, drywall, and insulation, the new one should have that too... Personally, I would install insulation in the stump you are planning to make... Otherwise, it might be a bit hollow... I even installed insulation in a screen that separated the shower and
Yrrol: I was thinking of buying TJB Mouse Guard and putting it around the house. Available for new constructions and for existing ones.. But both assume it will be mounted on nailing battens, and mine is so high up on the wall, not at the bottom at the end of the panel, so this can be mounted. Now it even says that if it's a new construction, you could nail it to the wind barrier... I have some
Nene: If you want to save space, you can use 45x70 studs and rotate them 90 degrees. This also gives you more space for screw rows. Additionally, stable and good.
Farzan: Exactly, apply primer and first coat before assembly, final coat after. Do not glue in the groove, it's better if the boards can move (otherwise some boards might crack in the worst case).
Farzan: The titles and their limits (number of posts) can be found here. So I am quite a newly minted god but haven't noticed any difference. At home, I am just as clumsy as usual. :P
prototypen: Imagine if the daughter now 9 years old was just as cool and was there just once. 2 floors Balcony Drawbridge Spiral staircase Pillory It's for sale, but a bit difficult to transport as it is 4.5 m high (normal clearance height 4.6 m) Protte
HenkeE: Haha.... nice! Yes, that's his table. Oh, it's rundstav. Then I'll look for another solution.. Thanks for the help!
nattugglan11: Looking for a dimensionally stable lightweight board that can be used as a headboard. It should preferably be 20-40mm thick. So, a type of particle board but with unusually a lot of air in it, does it exist? (IKEA's kitchen cabinets:P)
JF.: Yeah, exactly, I need to get someone who knows their stuff. You definitely don't want to take any chances. But thanks for the answers :)
Mats: I found after much searching the version that looks like a double P-strip at Krauta but it was hard to find. Everyone wants to sell syllpapp and refuses to understand that it's not the same thing.
Titan123: is also curious, no one knows or how to assemble this type of railing post yourself
Yrrol: There is foam meant to be against mice, which I mentioned to Anticimex and hinted that it must have been a scam product, but then they replied that they use such things themselves. However, special equipment is required to spray it out. Fire silicone - is it something that is somewhat deterrent to the mice? In a way, I could have sprayed anything and then crafted a lid of some sort, but...
BigGitt: That concrete is so soft that you can drill with a cheap drill and screwdriver! Without impact!
Titan123: We recently had a good friend visiting who is a carpenter, and he said that a foundation mat wasn't needed, which I found strange since the house isn't drained. He further suggested that we shouldn't permanently seal the well, just fill the well and not the pipe in it, and then apply self-leveling compound to level the slope. Does anyone have any comments on this?
RoughChuck: It will not be good with a 20mm hose and so little overlay, the heat becomes very striped and it feels uncomfortable. Worse than having no heat at all in the floor, I think. Why don't you want a 12mm hose? Lay two 12 loops and it will be good.....?
juggler: A year too late, here is a solution: I screwed 100mm wide U-profile steel studs around the chimney at the height of the spaced panel. (It was one short side that was screwed against the chimney.) Then gaps were sealed with fire sealant foam, which is pink-colored. The vapor retarder was taped to the short side that is furthest from the chimney. You can also clamp the plastic between the spaced
RoughChuck: [quote="mrVoodoo, post: 1119780"] . drag the trowel from the edge (if you lay it on the side then pull downwards, if you place it on top then pull towards the middle of the wall). [/QUOTE Yeah? that's what I said,,,,,,,,,or...:D:D:D?
Stefan N: It's not always the case that the cheapest solution is the best. I would skip the plaster every time and just float. If you still need to have plaster, put it underneath and float on top for the exact height.
BiFuel: Doesn't look like blåbetong to me, but that's far from a guarantee of being radon-free. Ground radon is often a bigger source, but I'm not aware of the conditions for that in Denmark. The best thing is always to do a long-term measurement so you get an idea of your living environment :)
Smurfjävel: Okay, then it will be so, just have to find out at what height the kortling should be placed...
myrstack: You can get some inspiration from the renovation kits available even if you don't buy that particular solution, check for example here // M
