I have a patio with a felt roof above but no walls, just posts.
I'm considering building walls with windows, starting without insulation.
From the inside, I thought like this:
Option 1
95x95 post
Horizontal raw board painted on the inside - works as a wall as long as I run without insulation.
Wind barrier.
Horizontal 22x45 to create an air gap before the panel and to attach the panel
Vertical panel.
Question: Do I have to create a vertical air gap, i.e., do I have to put vertical 22x45 and then horizontal to be able to attach the facade panel?
That is, option 2
95x95 post
Horizontal raw board painted on the inside - works as a wall as long as I run without insulation.
Wind barrier.
Vertical 22x45 to create a vertical air gap before the panel
Horizontal 22x45 to attach the panel
Vertical panel.
I'm considering building walls with windows, starting without insulation.
From the inside, I thought like this:
Option 1
95x95 post
Horizontal raw board painted on the inside - works as a wall as long as I run without insulation.
Wind barrier.
Horizontal 22x45 to create an air gap before the panel and to attach the panel
Vertical panel.
Question: Do I have to create a vertical air gap, i.e., do I have to put vertical 22x45 and then horizontal to be able to attach the facade panel?
That is, option 2
95x95 post
Horizontal raw board painted on the inside - works as a wall as long as I run without insulation.
Wind barrier.
Vertical 22x45 to create a vertical air gap before the panel
Horizontal 22x45 to attach the panel
Vertical panel.
What would be the point of the standing air gap...?
A vertical air gap was a concern because I don't know if it's important to have an air gap so that air can move from the ground to the eaves and be ventilated out - i.e., vertical air gap.
If I go with option 1 with only a horizontal air gap, any moisture can't be ventilated out as it "stops" sideways. Or does it still work somehow to ventilate the air out?
But I don't know about this, hence the question.
How do you normally build with vertical boards - like my option 1 or option 2?
If I go with option 1 with only a horizontal air gap, any moisture can't be ventilated out as it "stops" sideways. Or does it still work somehow to ventilate the air out?
But I don't know about this, hence the question.
How do you normally build with vertical boards - like my option 1 or option 2?
You have horizontal battens with vertical cladding, usually with vertical cladding you also have cover battens, so it is ventilated vertically by the fact that the baseboards are not placed tightly together, creating a 1cm gap between each. How to deal with, for example, z-panel I do not know. I assume the same, but they might be grooved on the back to solve the gap problem, but that is pure speculation on my part.
I would choose option 1, seven days a week.
But as a nail rule, I would choose unplaned 25x50 instead to get a slightly sturdier dimension, possibly sparse 28x70, but I'm probably a bit too stingy for that.
Then I would set the rip saw at a 15-degree angle and bevel the 25mm edge on the nail rule, then set the bevel so that any condensate that ends up on top of the rule runs out towards the façade, not inward towards the insulation.
Finally, you can saw strips of 3.2 mm oil-hardened masonite and use them as spacers when nailing the nail rule (you only need a small piece of masonite right where you nail, so a whole sheet lasts a long time), then no water can stay against the windproofing, and it provides ventilation.
Then I'm considering your idea of painting the raw panelling.
It wouldn't be particularly successful if you paint with acrylic, as you'd get a diffusion-tight layer on the wrong side of the insulation when you insulate later. Personally, I would skip painting altogether.
And really, why are you going to do things in two rounds?
Get everything done now directly. Skip the raw panelling, just put paper and then insulation.
Install the insulation and then the final wall covering you intended.
Vapor barrier on the inside ???, well it probably depends on ... a lot of things .... :S
But as a nail rule, I would choose unplaned 25x50 instead to get a slightly sturdier dimension, possibly sparse 28x70, but I'm probably a bit too stingy for that.
Then I would set the rip saw at a 15-degree angle and bevel the 25mm edge on the nail rule, then set the bevel so that any condensate that ends up on top of the rule runs out towards the façade, not inward towards the insulation.
Finally, you can saw strips of 3.2 mm oil-hardened masonite and use them as spacers when nailing the nail rule (you only need a small piece of masonite right where you nail, so a whole sheet lasts a long time), then no water can stay against the windproofing, and it provides ventilation.
Then I'm considering your idea of painting the raw panelling.
It wouldn't be particularly successful if you paint with acrylic, as you'd get a diffusion-tight layer on the wrong side of the insulation when you insulate later. Personally, I would skip painting altogether.
And really, why are you going to do things in two rounds?
Get everything done now directly. Skip the raw panelling, just put paper and then insulation.
Install the insulation and then the final wall covering you intended.
Vapor barrier on the inside ???, well it probably depends on ... a lot of things .... :S
A heck of a lot of work for something that is so simple. I would go for option 2. The price of the battens would never make up for the work in your option, especially as you're recommending thicker battens. It's not a lot of extra batten needed for the upright. On top of that, a masonite board or similar. No, do the following, panel + 22x50 + 22x50 + wind protection.Mikael_L said:
but 25x50 is not more expensive than 22x45, right? It's the same slat, one planed and the other not.
And I recommend this one (or possibly 28x70) even with an extra slat underneath, choosing a sturdier one was just considering the weight of the facade and that it is easier to nail into.
Then there’s no need to put any masonite strips at all, after all, we're talking about a wall only 95 mm thick that actually dries out quite quickly anyway. But masonite is indeed an even nicer solution.
And I recommend this one (or possibly 28x70) even with an extra slat underneath, choosing a sturdier one was just considering the weight of the facade and that it is easier to nail into.
Then there’s no need to put any masonite strips at all, after all, we're talking about a wall only 95 mm thick that actually dries out quite quickly anyway. But masonite is indeed an even nicer solution.