Building Materials and Construction Technology
Stefan Tall: Often, as is common with drywall, when you intend to mount something heavy, you add reinforcement on the backside with a scrap piece of wood-based material you happen to have on hand (OSB, chipboard, planks, whatever). Take the opportunity to create a neat solution for hiding cables inside the wall while you're at it.
Ola78: If you now want to go with my solution, you can nail on 28*dim you want on the lättreglen, then you also have to screw in and there won't be as much wood that conducts heat. That's how we do it at work anyway. Otherwise, it sounds pretty good as you have planned and if it's easier for you, of course, you should go with that.
injonil: I had syll so I haven't had that problem. Where the joist will go, you probably won't need to attach the rim joist other than with joist hangers in the joist. I don't know the best way to do the other sides.
norrbottenstorpet: [citat] Well, I would rather say that wood and wood boards contribute to the fire development. However, it is entirely correct that a well-constructed dense stud-wood board construction with at least 70 mm insulation can prevent fire spread for up to 30 minutes. EI-30 stands for E=Entegrety approximately smoke density and I=Isolation, insulation, meaning that the other side does not become so hot
Haspen: Hello everyone, I am reading up on all the relatively new technologies to find the best one for our upcoming new build. Now I have come across the following: www.thermoblocks.com If anyone can tell me more about this, I would be very grateful!
Rebeckaf: Maybe a silly question.. But you haven't forgotten to separate it, have you? It's like two layers of insulation that need to be pulled apart. I might be expressing myself unclearly. But here's what it says on the Byggmax website about 45-ison: To get the correct measurement, simply split the roll after the pre-made slitting, thereby getting two "wall rolls" per package. And it is rarely THICKER
FredrikR: Are you talking about Norgips outdoor gypsum now? The X9 seems to have a more water-repellent surface than the regular outdoor gypsum, which appears to be an advantage if the construction will remain without paneling for a longer time. http://www.norgips.se/index0,425.htm http://www.norgips.se/index0,426.htm
Wall+floor on uninsulated concrete slab and associated problems due to unusual construction methods.
root: Hi, Thanks for the input on the inner wall! I think that's exactly how we'll do it! :-) What do you think about placing wall studs on top of the concrete edges all around, and installing drywall from floor to ceiling to enclose the concrete edges behind the drywall? Should I put a sealant between the concrete edge and the drywall too, or would there be a risk of moisture between the outer wall
Mats: well that's cheating. The original owner was a builder, so he likely picked up every scrap plank he found on various construction sites. That is, it was patched here and there, different dimensions, an old door leaf worked just fine as a path for a bit, a piece of sheet metal covers a square, etc....
pette: isn't it easier to go with the height you have fixed in the back, polish and paint? you can't see it very clearly in the picture but it's probably not more than 5-6 cm at the front edge that differs? that's how I would do it...... I don't think it would be a problem if the sides and top don't have the same measurements. one could imagine natural stone mosaic or something similar in the growing
Fotografen: The carpenters used one of these when I worked in construction: [bild] The crossbar in the middle is movable and moves down towards the board when you pull the handle outwards, and then it holds the board up.
Nicole: Now it's done! We used the angle grinder and cut off the tops and adjusted the beam to the right place. Now everything is straight and nice. However, I was thinking about something, several of you mention anchor nails. How important is it to use those specifically? We have attached two sturdy brackets on each side with 10 cm long nails. 16 in each bracket. Then on the underside of the beam, we
Bricco: Hello, I was thinking of building a wine rack with Lecablock and approximately 45x45 slats in between. How high do you think it's safe to build in height just by stacking them on each other? The wall is 160cm wide. The Lecablocks are usually about 60cm deep (are there shorter ones without having to cut them?) and in varying width+height so it seems like it shouldn't be a problem to build 2m high?
freddefredd: I am a carpenter by trade and would easily install in the kitchen rule 45/70, cc 45 cm, osb 90 cm wide, 12.5 mm(13), and one layer of drywall (13 mm) on top of that. Why specifically 6 mm renovation drywall? The stability becomes better... thereafter install the kitchen and tile after that.
cheetah1: If it's not wider than that between the chairs, it should be okay, but the standard is otherwise 28x70. cc300 is normal as you say, though. One can also (apparently) use plywood instead of glespanel.
yxet: can't see in the picture but my guess is trätex/trätex+masonit råspånt+masonit my wild guess is that the smell comes from tar paper, that is from the roof or wall, would think the smell becomes less noticeable when it gets cooler. +could some ventilation have been blocked during the panel change? could affect it as well
cheetah1: Oh, cozy. Is there perhaps a picture? What do the bridge abutments look like? What is the span? Regarding the type of wood, I'm not sure, but most constructions are made of spruce; perhaps some form of glued laminated beams for the load-bearing structure?
ByggBert: Hello, What dimension should I have for the support beam if the veranda has the dimensions: 3300x2900mm and the support beam is placed between two posts measuring 45x95mm? Snow zone: 3.0 (Haparanda area). The rafters are 45x145mm and the counter battens are 45x70mm. I am considering screwing/gluing together two 45x190mm support beams on 2 screwed/glued together 45x95mm posts. What do you think?
bekkman: The engineer has been in contact with the chairman and explained the situation, but without success in persuading. The wall has now been taken down and it seems likely that there will be some sort of beam solution (the simplest and most efficient possible) to quiet them down.
Krawk: [citat] Indeed. I've understood that you believe your board works. However, I cannot understand how the fact that the wall obviously manages without tensile reinforcement would prove this in any way. Apples and Oranges.
cheetah1: Speaking of bad smells; it smelled something awfully bad when we installed the vinyl flooring in my bedroom a couple of years ago, even with modern materials, so the smell itself doesn't have to have anything to do with it. Additionally, the scent didn't completely disappear until after about a couple of months.
pbengtsson: Regarding the surfaces, I actually have 4 different types in my house. Drywall (all walls): Excellent, the best OSB (walk-in closet, post cladding, etc.): Requires quite a bit of spackling to become good, if you use class 3 the spackling becomes like a drywall, but it works. Marine plywood (stairwell to loft, a little special since it wasn't intended to be painted initially): Not as much
PeterAnki: Thank you for your response, that's what I wanted to hear. I have now anchored the bearing beams in the lecablocks and also placed gravel on all the posts so that I have made it impossible to move the deck, the lawn will ensure it doesn't shift. Now it's just the decking left. Peter
Mats: they managed my 95 kg anyway, i.e., the byggmax variant :)
Jeslia: So it's plywood that is the best option, feels like there will be a lot of heat loss. It will be the same with studs since air insulates. We probably need to give this a good think.
Johan Gunverth: If you call as a tinsmith, you'll get a different answer. Högsbo Järn- och Metall in Mölndal has access to Plannja's "discontinued" range. For example, downpipe brackets with wedge locking instead of eccentric which the new ones have. I think most tinsmiths can probably arrange this too. "- They look terrible, so we told Plannja to continue delivering the old ones!" Quite a cool comment. :)