The intermediate floor - have I forgotten anything?

[frebor]

Currently insulating the upper floor of our 1.5-story house. Just wanted to check if I forgot something I should do in the joist before laying down the floor chipboard.

- bracing the joists
- run water pipes to the underfloor heating center
- run drainage for the toilet, sink, and bathtub

Anything else I should do?

 

[pbengtsson]

Check that the beams are at 60cc (if you have boards that need to be joined on a rule) and are sized for a bathroom if you will have ceramic on the floor.
If you're going to install underfloor heating, gles + sheet metal and pipes, then floorboards are the most convenient, and then the 60cc measurement is not so critical.

 

[frebor]

Thanks for the response! The beams are on cc 60 except under the bathroom where I've added extra so they are on cc 30. However, I used regular joists and not k24, I realize now as I write. Should I replace them?

The plan is to use Uponor's grooved underfloor heating panel since it was approved for laying laminate directly on it. But maybe a spaced decking panel is better? I thought it seemed easier to lay chipboard considering the turns. And if you don't need floorboards on top, it shouldn't differ too much in price. Or?

 

[pbengtsson]

When I calculated 3 years ago, the price for gles, metal sheets, pipes, and 22-floor chipboard was cheaper than tracked 22mm chipboard, metal sheets, and pipes.
The disadvantage is that the floor is 21mm higher due to the glesen.
Whether it is harder or easier to lay, I do not know, as I have never laid tracked floor chipboard.
But there is nothing tricky with the turns as you cut the glesen at these spots.

 

[frebor]

Okay. So it's worth calculating. But how do you handle the turns? There you have to add an extra beam/stud or?

 

[pbengtsson]

It's not that complicated, the glesen lies across the beams, where you need to turn, you remove about 15cm of gles on two boards so the hose moves freely. The glesen is mostly intended to create space for the hose and support the plates.
For example, at an exterior wall, all gles ends about 20 cm from the wall, on the beam against the wall a whole gles is nailed along the beam.

 

[frebor]

Of course. I was thinking about 28mm sparse that would be more load-bearing. But you are right that the chipboard floor above becomes load-bearing. As I said, I will calculate the difference it makes.

Doesn't a 22mm chipboard insulate a lot? According to Uponor's installation instructions, you could lay 7mm laminate directly on the grooved chipboard.

Then I saw another advantage, which was that it becomes a chipboard floor to lay compared to sparse + chipboard.

How should one think? There seem to be as many ways to do this as there are builders/manufacturers.

 

[pbengtsson]

It is an intermediate floor, so the extra 22mm doesn't make that much difference.
I would guess that most people use grooved chipboard as it probably goes faster and you don't have the risk of driving a screw into the hose in the same way.
My floor joists were arranged in slightly different directions, so spaced timber was the best option to tie it together in my case.

 

[El_-micke]

if you use regular 22mm chipboard at the ends and grooved boards in between and then cut grooves yourself with a hand router, it will probably be the most cost-effective option...because it's the turnboards that incur the biggest cost