Saw wooden studs thinner... how? sustainable?

[Stefan H]

I am going to install new doors at the country house. The current doors are small, and the frame is nailed against studs that the chipboard walls are also attached to.

The new door frame is a bit too large to fit within the studs (two vertical and one horizontal). Is it possible to saw out the studs by the missing centimeter, or is there a risk they will become too unstable?

If you can saw, how would you go about it? Jigsaw? Handsaw?

 

[yxet]

it depends on how much you need to increase the hole if it's 10 mm, no problem if the frame itself is 10 mm too wide, then you need space for drev me. so in that case, it might need to be raised about 40 mm and a 2-inch rule is 50mm so in the worst case, remove 20 mm on each side
or 10 on just one side.

jigsaw, reciprocating saw, handsaw, axe, plane are all good options, just go at different speeds.

 

[yxet]

forgot if it's interior doors then a good option might be to saw the frames with 5mm all around + a little for adjustment allowance with a handsaw that goes in a jiffy.

 

[Stefan H]

Thank you! Yes, they are interior doors. And the frame is about 1 cm too wide all around. Do I still need extra space for some kind of drev (what is drev?) if it's indoors?

I should also add, if it wasn't clear, that the studs are already in place, and my idea was to cut them in place as well... or do I have to take everything down, cut, and then put it back up again?

 

[mlkjhr]

Take a circular saw and set it to the depth you want to remove, in this case 10 mm. Then make a heck of a lot of saw cuts across the studs. You can then easily remove the wood with an axe.

 

[Mikael_L]

Or chisel + hammer. Might give a bit better control if you are not used to working with the axe.

 

[yxet]

Sealing is insulation but is not so necessary indoors, possibly it might dampen sound somewhat. Draw up how much you need to remove around the door hole and use a reciprocating saw with a combination blade that handles both metal and wood, it will go perfectly, and if you don't have one or can't borrow one, just use a regular handsaw, good luck!

 

[Mikael_L]

If you cut off a nail or frame screw, you might need to refasten it. Depending on what's behind it, but if it's a nail (and thus likely a wooden wedge behind), you simply hammer in a new nail right next to it, so there's still a wooden wedge behind. But wait until you've tried fitting the new door frame.

 

[pbengtsson]

Had the same problem and sawed up two interior doors + exterior door.
Used a Festool + rail on one door, but that was just because the equipment was available. It creates a lot of dust, so have a good stand to work on.

Jigsaw for the exterior door, works if the saw is good, the blade doesn't go through the frame, so you have to saw from both sides. Unfortunately, I broke the gearbox on my saw when I did it.

Fein on another interior door, this was because I thought what needed to be removed was so thin, it took an eternity, ended up using the electric planer a bit.

But the mistake I made was opening the holes for the interior doors in winter, and now they stick in the summer when the frame/door has swollen. So if you think the door might swell, it's a shame if you removed too little.

Now I shall saw up the interior doors further (+1cm) and then I'll use a handsaw + Japanese saw, it takes a little time, but it's the least complicated.

 

[Stefan H]

Interesting suggestions, good variety of ideas. My thoughts have been going in a similar direction. I have a circular saw and an axe, also think I have a chisel. But it also sounds convenient with a reciprocating saw, I'll see if I can get one.

So it's good to try to do this soon while the air is still more humid so I don't have everything fit nicely in the dry winter.

I'll probably skip the gear then...

 

[Mikael_L]

On an interior door, insulation is only for soundproofing, if one cares. It probably provides just as good a soundproofing effect with a bead of acrylic sealant in the gap, if the gap is too thin to insulate.

 

[Stefan H]

But I don't need to worry about the gaps when I'm trying to fit the frames, right? I can deal with the gaps later with some gullfiber, acrylic, or whatever is needed depending on how big they are. Once the frames are in place, that is.

 

[pbengtsson]

I have also tested a reciprocating saw for splitting studs. It works too but takes time and is a bit difficult to get the cut perpendicular. It can wander off on the other side. But it surely depends a lot on the blade and the machine. The best and cheapest tool seems to be patience.

 

[Stefan H]

Yes, it feels like it might sway a bit. I once sawed through a porous inner wall (like leka/brick from 1920) and it was difficult to get it straight.

 

[Mikael_L]

But I don't really need to worry about the gaps when I'm trying to fit the frames, right? I can deal with the gaps later with some insulation, acrylic, or whatever is needed depending on how big they are. Once the frames are in place, that is.

Yep, absolutely right.
You only need to aim for one or two mm of gap so it can handle some temperature and humidity movement. Then, of course, the frame should also fit straight both horizontally and vertically, otherwise, you'll have to take out more where needed.