Is a 45x195 on edge sufficient to span over 12dm wide windows?
The trusses are almost centered on the windows, and there is at most a 180cm gap between two load-bearing studs.
The wall plate consists of two screwed-together 45x195s, one lying down and one standing.
The roofs have a span of 7.2m, a 27º slope, and consist of tongue-and-groove boards and concrete tiles.
The trusses are spaced at 120cm center-to-center.
The trusses are almost centered on the windows, and there is at most a 180cm gap between two load-bearing studs.
The wall plate consists of two screwed-together 45x195s, one lying down and one standing.
The roofs have a span of 7.2m, a 27º slope, and consist of tongue-and-groove boards and concrete tiles.
The trusses are spaced at 120cm center-to-center.
If you have cantilevered trusses 7.2 m and such a heavy roof, it doesn't feel like a regular 45x195 will be enough. You should have a glulam beam, maybe 66x315 or 90x270.
As you can see, it's an uncertain answer.
However, I think you should let a structural engineer look at the load-bearing capacity.
As you can see, it's an uncertain answer.
However, I think you should let a structural engineer look at the load-bearing capacity.
If I understand correctly, you want a 180 cm wide opening. Do you have a standing stud at each end, is it 45x195?
It will hold
It will hold
The standard framework is 45x120 c-c 60cm, but I am not the least bit worried about it. The window is 120 cm wide and is positioned in such a way that it "cuts" two vertical studs, so there is a c-c of 180cm between the nearest vertical studs. Across the entire wall lies the header, which consists of a horizontal 45x195 screwed together with another 45x195 standing on edge. In other words, a pretty classic header.
Many houses/garages built with free-spanning roof trusses and heavy roofs have wide windows on the long sides. This practically means that the window takes up two vertical studs, and a roof truss thereby ends up more or less directly above this window. However, I've snooped around a bit and looked at other constructions, and I haven't seen anyone who has had laminated timber in the wall plate?
When you look at newly built houses, you make sure to have load-bearing studs on each side of the window. Then, of course, no glulam beams are needed. However, you mentioned that you have 180cm between load-bearing studs, and I suggest you use a glulam beam.
Another option is to put load-bearing studs on either side of the window. I have replaced all the windows in my house; they have all been made larger, smaller, or installed in a new location. In almost every case, I've stripped the wall from floor to ceiling and built new from the joists up to the wall plate. If I were to do it today, it would take me less than a day to tear down and rebuild, including the installation of the window. Of course, interior surfaces, etc., would still need to be done.
Another option is to put load-bearing studs on either side of the window. I have replaced all the windows in my house; they have all been made larger, smaller, or installed in a new location. In almost every case, I've stripped the wall from floor to ceiling and built new from the joists up to the wall plate. If I were to do it today, it would take me less than a day to tear down and rebuild, including the installation of the window. Of course, interior surfaces, etc., would still need to be done.
Okay, thank you for the help.
When I drew my wall, I placed all the vertical studs at c-c 60cm, hence the phenomenon that a 120cm window creates a 180cm gap in the framing.
I will have to reinforce the top plate over my windows in some way.
When I drew my wall, I placed all the vertical studs at c-c 60cm, hence the phenomenon that a 120cm window creates a 180cm gap in the framing.
I will have to reinforce the top plate over my windows in some way.
There are double doors that are 180 cm wide and there you usually don't use anything other than hammarbandet and it holds.
Lifting this old thread as we have a similar problem. We had help setting up the framework for the garage, and window openings were placed according to the blueprint from the house supplier. When the roof trusses arrived and were installed, it turned out that the trusses ended up right over the windows instead of beside them as apparently intended. Now we're wondering if we need to move the window openings, or if it's possible to reinforce the wall plate/beam/studs in some way so we don't have to move the openings. The windows are 110 wide and the roof span is about 7 m. We have to account for Jämtland snow amounts and concrete tiles.
The frame is made of thermocell wall, 150 high, and then studded as usual. Sending a picture of how it looks, I can't manage to rotate it, so you'll have to be kind and rotate your heads or computers instead ;-)
The frame is made of thermocell wall, 150 high, and then studded as usual. Sending a picture of how it looks, I can't manage to rotate it, so you'll have to be kind and rotate your heads or computers instead ;-)
